443 whp hp on 93 octane only

[Buick Mark]

WOW that IS impressive!

 

[Mike T]

The TPS is good (reads 4.75 @ WOT). The dyno tech got out of at 443 because he didn't feel comfortable with 23 psi.

 

[Mike T]

TPS @ wot is low

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You can see that the throttle was chopped as it was coming up on power in the graph on post #6. It may have had more in it but you can see on the dyno graph that the hp was not climbing that much at this point anyway.

 

[longball]

keep in mind that you will generally get a lower number on a Mustang dyno. Of course most everyone likes the higher Dynojet number, including me!

 

[Mike T]

keep in mind that you will generally get a lower number on a Mustang dyno. Of course most everyone likes the higher Dynojet number, including me!

Agreed. The thing that I have failed to mention is that I've been breaking transmissions in this car. Right now the original untouched 130k+ sloppy transmission with a used ebay converter is back in it and I am certain the slippage is more than making up for any skewed Dynojet #s.

 

[Joeld]

60lb injectors?
That is some serious power running nothing but gas and through cat and the like.
Looks like a bunch of internal work done.
That is one nice running motor.
I've been curious to see what the best stock tune can be with stock internals, injectors and the like? I guess all but stock chip and adjustable boost.
That is some monster boost with no knock and nothing but 93.
Great post,
Joel

 

[Razor]

Run it rich.. low 10's for AFR, run low timing 18 degree's, run it on a dyne(short pull.. few seconds).. I can see it.
Now run it down a track for 12 seconds at 23 psi, afr in the mid 11's, and show me the log.. I'd also be suspect of the knock sensor not picking up any amount of knock. Like if it wasnt tq'd down properly or disconnected. I usually have better belief when I see a little transitional .5 degree somewhere.
This is why I hate dyno's. They can give you a false sense of things on these cars.

 

[Mike T]

Run it rich.. low 10's for AFR, run low timing 18 degree's, run it on a dyne(short pull.. few seconds).. I can see it.
Now run it down a track for 12 seconds at 23 psi, afr in the mid 11's, and show me the log.. I'd also be suspect of the knock sensor not picking up any amount of knock. Like if it wasnt tq'd down properly or disconnected. I usually have better belief when I see a little transitional .5 degree somewhere.
This is why I hate dyno's. They can give you a false sense of things on these cars.

FWIW the knock sensor is a brand new & properly torqued. It does work because have plenty of log files under boost in overdrive showing very small amount of knock and I've been running it at these levels for almost a year.

 

[Razor]

Don't get me wrong, its nice to see a clean motor making some power. Just that when you start inching up on making power(leaning out, increasing timing, boost), the Buick will want to see octane.
If you do a TSM type build you will get big power numbers. And that comes at a cost. Example the 70 GTQ and RJC FM.

Put some Q16 or meth and it will come alive for real. Then it should make way over 600 rwhp pretty easy.

 

[Mike T]

60lb injectors?
That is some serious power running nothing but gas and through cat and the like.
Looks like a bunch of internal work done.
That is one nice running motor.
I've been curious to see what the best stock tune can be with stock internals, injectors and the like? I guess all but stock chip and adjustable boost.
That is some monster boost with no knock and nothing but 93.
Great post,
Joel

Thank you for the complements Joel. I may have mislead you with the stock cat back statement because the cat has been gone for a long time now but behind that is the original OEM pipe. I have followed a few of your post and wish you luck on your car. BTW you should follow the "Rusty Silver Bullet" thread and use that as a pattern for your car but dial it back a bit.

 

[20psiofevil]

Very nice Mike! How far you going to take that 70gtq?

I agree 100% with Razor as I have went through the same thing. On a loaded dyno my car logged 130% engine load/Ve. As soon as I got it on the track I logged 160% engine load on same boost setting. This caused my motor to run a little lean. Just something to keep an eye on.

 

[longball]

[quote=" The thing that I have failed to mention is that I've been breaking transmissions in this car. Right now the original untouched 130k+ sloppy transmission with a used ebay converter is back in it and I am certain the slippage is more than making up for any skewed Dynojet #s.[/quote]

Good Point!

 

[Mike T]

Very nice Mike! How far you going to take that 70gtq?

I only have stock type graphite head gaskets and a stock crank so I would be afraid of much more than another 100 hp and not on 93. Here Is something to think about, I bought this turbo second hand and It went 9.60 @ 24 psi on another car. The same turbo on my motor at almost the same psi is only making about 60% of the power required to run a 9.60 et. This would be a good example of why the right combo of parts, fuel & timing is more important than how much boost you can throw at it.

 

[2QUICK2B6]

yes I was thinking that's a big turbo for the combo ... I have a 70gtq on my tta
nice #'s on 93 without alky

 

[Mike T]

yes I was thinking that's a big turbo for the combo ... I have a 70gtq on my tta
nice #'s on 93 without alky

It's not the ideal combo but you would be amazed at how well it drives and spools in addition to being very quiet.

 

[aminga]

USER WARNING.....Preceeding further may results in a knock knock whos there joke

It's rod. Let me out


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[toomanymodz]

Great numbers. Looks like some boost creep..the boost is ramping up and up. Port your wastegate hole?

I run up to 21# boost on straight 93 (see my sig), but I wouldn't go anything past that. When I first installed my turbo and hadn't ported the WG hole enough, I had a little boost creep and saw 22.5# and hints of knock. Gas is good here in Florida, not sure how it is where you are at, but 23# is on the brink...I'd dial it down a couple.

Here is my powerlogger screen for my high 10 sec pass. Note the nice plateau shape of the boost graph with minimal creep. A/F ratio was set to 11.1 and Eric's v6.0 chip held it nicely. The knock blips were only at the shift points. Good 'sawtooth' shape of the engine speed graph, which means the trans isn't slipping and the torque converter has tight coupling.

Note that the boost that my powerlogger displays is slightly higher than that of my boost gauge (has to do with how I ran the wires and ground, which I'm too lazy to fix), so boost was closer to 20# during this run.

 

[Mike T]

That's a great looking file toomanymods. I am almost certain that your file is one that I have saved for reference. I like to compare two files on side by side computers and advance one frame at a time.

 

[2QUICK2B6]

files look very good but anything over 18 # boost makes me worry on 93 .... great info on this post

don't try this at home unless your sure your cars tune is dead on!

 

[Mike T]

Here is a good example of how engine temperature affects my car. This was an extended run in overdrive to really load the motor Coolant temp was 188 and outside temp was about 90. After this run in these conditions I knew the dyno pull would be ok in 3rd. Not pretty but at least I know everything is working. I also pulled fuel after this to clean it up a little.