Am I due for a timing chain?

[HouTX87]

Replacing the timing chain has been on my list of priorities but I was hoping to wait until I change the cam and heads. The engine was completely stock until 46k miles when I started modding it. Now has 52k miles with considerably more power. Should I rush this as a maintenance item to avoid a catastrophic failure?

Since I just realized I have a cracked drivers side header I've got a little time to re-evaluate my to do list while I save up for a set of TA headers.

Thanks guys and Happy New Year!

 

[blackgn1]

Weld up the header for right now. Those TA headers are top of the line without a doubt. You will not see any gain from them unless your making big power. I'm not saying don't buy the TA's. Just not a neccesity. As for the timing set it should be good for a while. I've seen cars with over 100,000 miles on the clock and the stock timing set was still hanging in there.

 

[fastblackracing]

Your timing chain is probly good for a while, with the valve springs and rpm you turn it most likely is not necessary at this time, usually 80-100k is a good time to do it. But the harder you drive it the more you should consider it. I agree with blackgn get your headers tig welded and reuse them if there is nothing else wrong with them, there no advantage in a set of headers for you.

 

[Nick Micale]

Replacing the timing chain has been on my list of priorities but I was hoping to wait until I change the cam and heads. The engine was completely stock until 46k miles when I started modding it. Now has 52k miles with considerably more power. Should I rush this as a maintenance item to avoid a catastrophic failure?........

Of all your mods, the priority item should be to replace the 25 year-old composite cam gear and timing chain before it grenades.

You have almost doubled your stock HP and certainly very much increased your RPM level, and you are going to trust a POS stock gear which will cost you over 10 times the repair cost vs. a new timing set when it lets go, and takes out your valves at a minimum?

Having seen new chains break and factory chains/gears be done at 1/2 your mileage, why would you NOT want to do this which is normally a 1/2 day job, all day at the worst, and cost under $200 to do it right?

By the way, why worry about changing the cam? I have a GN here now with over 700 mid/low 11 sec. runs with a couple 10.90's, with a stock engine [heads never been off] and the only internal engine mods are new valve springs and a NEW TIMING CHAIN SET!

 

[turbodave231]

Running a 25 year old stock plastic timing gear sprocket scares me!! There are lots of options for replacement timing sets. You can upgrade and go to a double roller chain or replace it with a new stock style silent morse link chain. The stock style parts are not expensive and you can keep the chain tensioner/dampner. Don't try to run a tensioner/dampner on a roller chain.

Most people don't realize that Before the chain completely fails, it fills the oil pan with pieces of plastic. Those pieces collect in the oil pump pickup screen and restrict oil flow. This will cause low oil pressure and bearing failure.

 

[GBGN1]

I think the age is the biggest thing to consider with the chain too. Ive had a many cars over 100k with the stock chain. But that was years ago. I guess cheap insurance to do it and the piece of mind that go's with it. If you need someone to do it for you let me know.

 

[HouTX87]

Thanks guys. Now I just need to decide which timing set to go with. Edelbrock or Rollmaster? I would need a cam button too right? I changed the rear main seal last spring and the oil pan and pickup were clean. I think everything is still in good shape at this point but the 25 year old plastic cam gear makes me nervous too! I'm going to pull the header off this weekend and see if I can get someone at work to tig weld it for me.

 

[GNONYX]

NAPA has most of the parts at a good price, just do research on the timing chain to see which is better with your sig set up.
New tensioner – NAPA http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NTP95158_0191974675 - $4.84

Updated cam button NAPA http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NTP95189_0191974674 - $15.14

Front cover gasket set – NAPA http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt%3dtcs45930%26Ntk%3dKeyword%26Nty%3d1%26N%3d599001%2b101987%2b50008%2b2 -- $9.99

 

[garyk1970]

Another opinion for replacement....its an age issue for me...dont chance it....it bit me hard.

 

[whitehot1]

The TA Performance timing chain set looks like it's the best one to use for a hi-performance application. It's a little expensive compared to the others but is better made from what i have read,it's the one i'm going to use if i ever have the front cover off for any reason. Here is a link for it.

http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_V1522B

 

[Nick Micale]

Thanks guys. Now I just need to decide which timing set to go with. Edelbrock or Rollmaster?..........

Both the chain sets you mention are double roller, but the Rollmaster has a billet cam gear, and the Edelbrock has a cast gear which will wear very quick, and you cannot use a tensioner with either one.

If you want to have it last and use a tensioner, the TA link chain set has billet gears, and is actually a stronger chain than a double roller. It does cost more than most double rollers because of the superior billet cam gear.

 

[HouTX87]

I don't mind spending a little extra for a better product. So the TA timing set using a tensioner would be the best setup available? Nick, I think I'll be calling you soon. Thanks.

 

[turbodave231]

I've used almost every type of roller chain available for these V6's (Rollmaster, ProGear, Cloyes etc) and I've not had any problems even with extremely high spring pressures.

Just remember: don't try and use a tensioner with a roller chain. The TA link chain with billet sprockets is probably the best choice if you want to retain the tensioner (and it give you the ability to degree the cam).

 

[HouTX87]

Is there any upside to using a tensioner? Any downside to using a double roller? My first thought was to use a double roller without a tensioner. I'd like to see quite a few more miles out of this engine without a premature failure. My goal is to have a reliable low 11 sec street car but you know how that goes .

 

[BEATAV8]

the progear set comes with billet cam gear and billet crank gear. Not bad for ~$70.

weber carries them.

http://www.progearweb.com/