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I've run many low 10 sec passes and one 9.90 pass on a forged rotating assembly and just the two billet caps. Car made 620 at the wheels at 24psi a couple of years ago. It's still running fine, and mostly street driven.
They are aluminum cheap bearings. The #2 bearing had the twisted crank look and #3 bottom had the high load ugliness. I rolled in a new #3 upper and replaced the #3 lower also when I cracked #1 a few months ago. I haven't seen detonation on this engine ever. It's also the furthest I've seen a stock short block go on 93/alky. Last week I stopped at 659whp on the dyno around 33psi. Regularly max out the 3.5 bar map sensor on the street. Easily over 80lbs/min. I don't do any full hits anymore. Too dangerous at that level with the junk parts.
86 GN. Various turbos over the last few years. 60-1, MFS 6265, MFS 6766. I've had a few other turbos on there but didn't run them close to all in. The 60-1 was done around 24psi 550whp, the MFS 6265 was done around 28-29 psi at 570-580whp and I stopped at 659 whp with the MFS 6766. Boost was 33psi for testing. I'm sure all of them moved a little more air on the street. Most often dyno room conditions are 80-95* and the roller doesn't load the engine quite as hard as the pavement. With a purpose built engine all of these could make quite a bit more power. I'd be willing to be if I could change only fuel from 93/alky to e85 or an oxygenated race fuel I could pick up almost 7-8% power with nothing but an adjustment to the a/f ratio.
About 3 years ago it was time to freshen my TA alum engine, and replaced it temporally with a 4.1 production block with forged rotating parts, 2 steel center caps, and all the stuff like cam and heads were duplicated from the alum build, and the 3500# car runs consistent high 9's shifting about 7000 RPM.
According to the "internet keyboard experts", the 4.1 block is junk as compared to a 109 block?
I just love the 4.1 builds from when I did my first one in the 1990's, and have only trashed one of them when the trans let go and RPM hit the rev limit hard at 8000 RPM which cracked the block web between the cam and crank - the inherent weak spot all production Buick V-6 blocks have. Still drove it on the trailer!
Proper tuning is very important, but so is airflow which is dependent on the heads and turbo. With my old-school HPQ-70 turbo and excellent flowing heads, I run easy high 9's with 16-19 PSI boost!
About 3 years ago it was time to freshen my TA alum engine, and replaced it temporally with a 4.1 production block with forged rotating parts, 2 steel center caps, and all the stuff like cam and heads were duplicated from the alum build, and the 3500# car runs consistent high 9's shifting about 7000 RPM.
According to the "internet keyboard experts", the 4.1 block is junk as compared to a 109 block?
I just love the 4.1 builds from when I did my first one in the 1990's, and have only trashed one of them when the trans let go and RPM hit the rev limit hard at 8000 RPM which cracked the block web between the cam and crank - the inherent weak spot all production Buick V-6 blocks have. Still drove it on the trailer!
Proper tuning is very important, but so is airflow which is dependent on the heads and turbo. With my old-school HPQ-70 turbo and excellent flowing heads, I run easy high 9's with 16-19 PSI boost!
you can make a lot more power on a 109 and have it live if the car is tuned right.5/600 hp is nothing for these motors.
The cost and time involved in rebuilding the block, I will definitely step up the power slowly. For cruising, I will probably run stock boost levels with 93 and alky, at the track when I'm going all out running race fuel. I know people will say I can get away with 93 and alky, but I just feel safer with race fuel.
methonal is a serious fuel.i have run both race gas and methanol/93 and race gas with methonal both fuels can provide enough detonation suppression to allow hard parts failure.tune with a cushion,pay attention to pumps and plugs and these cars can fly and be a lot of fun.
Well with the money I'm spending, I won't take any chances. Definitely will be watching the fuel pressure, pump failure in 08 started my issues and as far as plugs, just need to educate myself.
This is why a system like XFI with fuel pressure compensation is so good. You may not even notice it was correcting till you look at the data. Things usually get ugly out the back end of a pass when you are going 130+. No time to be trying to scrutinize a fuel pressure gauge!
The latter part of or your statement is true, you aren't going to be looking at a fuel pressure gauge at that speed. However, this past summer even at launch my car would build boost and then fall flat. I had a FRP gauge, but I wasn't monitoring it. When I finally did, I noticed at my FRP wasn't going above 55PSI at 24 PSI. Even though I never recorded any knock, something was saving me from pulling the pin in the grenade.
Thanks for the info. Wow.
