Another stumble upon acceleration with a TR6 ignition module

[Toby_Goodmk]

I have a question for the guys that have sorted Gremlins. I have a nice new clean engine. I have a new TR6, wires, coil, etc. Everything on this engine has been replaced as new and from as far as I know seemed to be operating correctly. Today weather was nice, so I took it down the road to see if I could get the car for a drive. I have a stumble upon acceleration at approx 3000 rpm building in speed. Idle is fine. My 02 sensor is all over the place at idle after the drive mostly lean, that I do not know WTF. I tested for vacuum leaks last week with a redline smoke machine and only a small amount was leaking from the throttle body shaft. My plugs are new, gapped 34 and are NGK UR4

I have attached a power logger file and the stumble and chug/backfire through the exhaust starts at about 5mph on the PL file to about 20MPH. Everything seems fine according to the numbers??

Me and Eric from TT seem to think it is electrical. I dont have a means of testing to insure this is the issue. Any thoughts out there...? Short of me buying another ign module and swapping back to eliminate the the TR6 I need some other ideas if you would share.

All mods in the signature.

 

[BEATAV8]

Only time I ever had a strange issue with my TR6 was when the body shop washed my car and somehow got some water inside my TR6. It stumbled and popped a few times around 3000rpm. Luckily I suspected what had happened and went straight for the TR6 and found a few drops of H2O in there. Took care of that and she was back to running flawlessly.

 

[BEATAV8]

Aside from something wiered like that I would look closely at the crank sensor. Strange things can happen if the sensor is ever hit by the reluctor wheel, and only the delco or Delphi sensors seem to work for me

 

[TurboBuRick]

I would also take a close look at the cam and crank sensors. Like mentioned the crank sensor is sensitive and once hit by the wheel it can cause little issues. Check cam sensor for any kind of play. Sounds like one has a flaky signal.

Rick

 

[Toby_Goodmk]

Good points. Ill remove the crank sensor to insure it is nice and clean and check on the reluctor wheel as well. I know the cam sensor is in good shape as I just had it out, looked it over and was new a couple thousand miles ago.

Maybe Bob will chime in as I have sent a couple requests for information and help. The TR6 has a diagnostic utility and I have no codes, and the crank and cam sensor lights up on LED inside the unit, would the light still operate inside the unit if there was an intermittent, or weak signal??

I am also suspecting slow 02 cross counts. I may be searching for more than it really is. Problem usually lies under your nose.

 

[Pronto]

I'ld go to a colder plug gapped tighter as well.

 

[whitehot1]

If the o2 sensor is reading slower / lazy you probably found your problem.

I try to keep small items as spares just to be able to verify the one being used is good.

 

[TurboBob]

hi,

I got your messages, just been buried the last couple days. The LEDs in the TR6 are run by the microprocessor, so they show what the CPU thinks the sensor is doing. Do you have a tach connected, as it will show you any codes, as well as let you check the CAM sensor timing.

Bob

 

[Toby_Goodmk]

THanks Bob. I do have the tach connected and there are no errors. SO I feel doing some checks that are mentioned above may be prudent to do at first unless you feel checking something in addition may be affecting the performance.

 

[Toby_Goodmk]

Started with the easiest things first yesterday. Made sure to the module off and clean grounds to insure good contact. I also started with the 135 bank and traded a set of plug wires I had on the shelf that are new. A slight change might I say it felt more torque. So I moved to the 246 bank and traded those wires out too, while I was there checked on the plugs which looked good. Went for a drive and it felt the same as before. I have more torque now, but the surging and stumble...no longer a backfire. I decided to swap a known good 02. I tested by using the torch to voltage increase and decrease test and held it on the fins of the o2 to insure no voltage drop for 2 mins. Swapped that 02 in, still no changes. I still have the crank sensor to eliminate however I do not know how to test, only how to set. I also have a suspicion on the coil pack and module.

 

[Toby_Goodmk]

cleaned up the crank sensor this evening. Drive it....still there. took it for a drive because it was near 70* out today and was enjoying the weather. On about 10 miles into my cruise......more spit and sputter...to the point had to pull off the road. pulled into the garage, took the coil pack off and threw it in the freezer for an hour. took it out let it dry up...put it on the car....ran rine till in 3000rpm sputter sputter. I think I have a bad coil pack.

 

[Toby_Goodmk]

I asked Caspers last month to make a module simulator for the LS1 packs. THis would come in handy at this point.

 

[TurboBuRick]

You do have the factory cap on the cam sensor?

Try this. Unplug the cam sensor with engine running and go for a ride. See if that makes any difference?

 

[Toby_Goodmk]

I will try that, however doesnt the cam sensor control injector timing?

 

[Toby_Goodmk]

You do have the factory cap on the cam sensor?

Try this. Unplug the cam sensor with engine running and go for a ride. See if that makes any difference?

Unplugged it and went for a cruise up the street, results are the same. Getting a new ACdelco pack today to see if this solves the issue. Like mentioned....cold coil pack....stumble past 3k. Hot coil pack.....has a hard time idling after running for awhile. I say the coil pack. To be continued!

 

[Toby_Goodmk]

new coil pack.....same stumble. Swapped ESC modules...same stumble. Changed the TPS sensor out...same stumble. Unplugged the TPS circuit from the Alky control....same stumble. Running out of options and growing quite frustrated

 

[huntsg]

Are you getting a spark at each plug? Could be a fueling issue.

 

[Toby_Goodmk]

well folks it has something to do with the built in two step. I thought I had it wired correctly obviously not. I could have sworn with the trigger #6 set it causes the 2 step to use a ground to activate. I had the trigger #6 set to on. I have the orange wire on one side of the switch, the other is to ground. So when I push the button it activates the two step. Somehow the 2 step was doing what it was supposed to at 3000 rpm but it was triggered all the time....even though i did not have my foot on the brake pedal ????? Who knows, Ill trace my steps make sure the switch is working (again) and see what becomes of it.

 

[TurboBob]

Take a pic or draw a sketch and email me. We will nail it down.

 

[Toby_Goodmk]

Bob,

Here is how I have it wired. Is there any trouble shooting that can be done on this end? According to the directions on how the two step works....if what was truly rev limiting while I was driving with the trigger on, shouldn't the trigger light be flashing all the time? Or does it flash above a certain RPM, or if in drive above X mph, etc?