Another Turbo Header Build

[Mike E]

This time I'm building some headers for my car. I'm running production style TA heads and the headers need to be stock turbo location for xTSM. They are 1.5" primaries with a 2" crossover. 304SS tube and mild steel RJC flanges. I thought I would save money building my own, but I could have bought a set of used ATR's for what the materials cost. But this way I get exactly what I want and I know they are built well.

For the most part they will look like ATR headers, but the v-band connections will be in different spots. I'm planning to run the 3 bolt flange turbo for xTSM and a 4 bolt turbo for TSL in the future. Everything from the head to the collector will be the same for both sets of header, but I'll swap merge's and crossovers to change between the two.

Everything is tacked together at this point and I want to check them on my actual motor before burning everything in.

Raw material.

Drivers side header.

Passenger side

 

[CGASTON]

Lookin good!

Sent from my iPhone using Turbo Buick

 

[Squid4life]

NICE!

 

[J-B Racing]

They look equal length to me..But I still like mine better...lol
I see in the future that you will do this as a full time JOB..

 

[black owned]

This time I'm building some headers for my car. I'm running production style TA heads and the headers need to be stock turbo location for xTSM. They are 1.5" primaries with a 2" crossover. 304SS tube and mild steel RJC flanges. I thought I would save money building my own, but I could have bought a set of used ATR's for what the materials cost. But this way I get exactly what I want and I know they are built well.

For the most part they will look like ATR headers, but the v-band connections will be in different spots. I'm planning to run the 3 bolt flange turbo for xTSM and a 4 bolt turbo for TSL in the future. Everything from the head to the collector will be the same for both sets of header, but I'll swap merge's and crossovers to change between the two.

Everything is tacked together at this point and I want to check them on my actual motor before burning everything in.

Raw material.

Drivers side header.

Passenger side

who sells the collector?thanks

 

[slimtastic]

looking good bro. when i bult mine i wasnt able to find collectors for a 1.5 to a 2.1/2 tube so i had to make mine which kinda hurt the end result. yours look great!

 

[Mike E]

who sells the collector?thanks

Cone engineering.

looking good bro. when i bult mine i wasnt able to find collectors for a 1.5 to a 2.1/2 tube so i had to make mine which kinda hurt the end result. yours look great!

Yes, 2" out is about as big as you can get for 1.5 primaries. You could cut these back for 2.25, but 2.5 would be a stretch.

 

[charlief1]

How big are you making the crossover Mike?

 

[Mike E]

2"

If 2.5" will feed 2000+ hp, 2" should be fine for 1000-1200. 2" also works well with a t4 and buick 3 bolt flanges.

 

[Alky V6]

If you're shooting for 1200bhp, try to use 2.125".

 

[kmtwig]

This time I'm building some headers for my car. I'm running production style TA heads and the headers need to be stock turbo location for xTSM. They are 1.5" primaries with a 2" crossover. 304SS tube and mild steel RJC flanges. I thought I would save money building my own, but I could have bought a set of used ATR's for what the materials cost. But this way I get exactly what I want and I know they are built well.

For the most part they will look like ATR headers, but the v-band connections will be in different spots. I'm planning to run the 3 bolt flange turbo for xTSM and a 4 bolt turbo for TSL in the future. Everything from the head to the collector will be the same for both sets of header, but I'll swap merge's and crossovers to change between the two.

Everything is tacked together at this point and I want to check them on my actual motor before burning everything in.

Raw material.

Drivers side header.

Passenger side

 

[kmtwig]

Those look great! Do you purge the inside of the pipes with argon when you are welding them? kmtwig

 

[Phoneguy]

Those look awesome !! I wish I had fab talent...

Bryan

 

[Mike E]

Those look great! Do you purge the inside of the pipes with argon when you are welding them? kmtwig

Yes, I dp backpurge them with argon. I have a mustang in my shop I'm building headers for. I'll be welding both sets soon, and I'll get some pictures of the setup.

 

[Mike E]

I'm waiting on parts to finish some twin turbo headers for a mustang in my shop, so I had some spare time to weld up my headers. I've had a few people ask about backpurging. It's pretty easy to do if you have the right setup.

First thing to do is break them back apart so I can weld each individual tube.

To backpurge I use two tanks of argon and two regulators. I could do it with one tank and a splitter, but I rented a big bottle in anticipation of doing a bunch of stuff at once.
The tank and reg in the lower right goes to the welder and is set at ~15cfh.
The tank and reg in the upper right goes to the inside of the tube and is set at ~5cfh.

I use masking tape to close one end of the tube and encapsulate the purge line in the other end. You want to let the tube sit with the purge argon flowing for a little while (~20 sec) so all the atmosphere gets displaced by argon. The small gaps in the tube should be enough to let the atmosphere escape. If you have big gaps in the tube (which you shouldn't) you'll need a higher cfh for the purge.

Then you weld it up. The secret to the small welds is to use 1/16" tungsten and .035 filler rod and keep the amps as low as possible but still keep a puddle.

Weld all the tubes individually and then start reassembling the header.

If I get time tomorrow night I'll take pictures and make a quick process for how to install the collectors properly to be leak free.

 

[Mike E]

The process of how you weld the header is important if you want a leak and warp free header. The last thing you do is weld the tubes to the flange. But, to align them properly in the collector you need to at least tack them. I tack them and put a little silicone bronze braze on them to hold everything. The brazing is soft and wont pull the flange as the tube moves around in the collector.

Next you tack the three tubes together and then grind them flat.

At this point things can change a little depeding on what style collector you use. For formed collectors, follow this. For expensive merge collectors, there is less work.
I've been using collectors from Cone Engineering. They make these little pre cut inserts to go in the center of the tubes. I think they call them turbo stars.
Tack one in place.

Then fully weld it. If you ground everything flat, you can just fuse weld it with no filler.

Now you need to weld the seams of the tube that will eventually be blocked by the collector. Check the fit with the collector to make sure you weld back far enough.

You can see weld just to the edge of the collector.

Once you get all three seams done, fully weld the collector. It's almost pointless to backpurge a formed collector because the gaps usually aren't very good. You can get to it to do any grinding later anyways.

 

[Royal-T-Ltd]

man, i love your threads.... pictures and explanations are just awesome...... what brand V-band/clamps are you using? i need to replace some of my clamps and all i can find seem to be cheap looking w/nyloc nuts and weak looking t-bolts....

aaron

 

[Mike E]

Those V-bands and clamps are from siliconeintakes.com. They are cheap made in china stuff, but that was the only way I could find a 2" vband setup. If you want good quality clamps, look for RG Ray brand.

 

[J-B Racing]

Nice work Mike. I am happy with my Headers...

 

[norbs]

A few questions? What are you using for filler rod, 408, 409, or 347, what amperage? What tungsten material, gas lense? Ever try using solar flux ? Also what are you using for the a TIG fumes, I have a respirator but it does not seem to help, I have been feeling bad since I was welding alot on the weekend.