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Anyone tried ATR 303DP

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turbo6man

Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2001
Messages
233
Has anyone tried the ATR 303 3" downpipe which has the internal puck(just like the T.H.D.P.) Does it control boost and perform the same as the terry houston? Thanks Turbo6man:D :D :D
 
If this is the same one they have been making, I would run, not walk, away. EVERY, and I mean, EVERY person I know that bought one had problems with the puck sticking. They would send it back to ATR to have it fixed, even though ATR claimed there was nothing wrong. It would work for a couple of weeks and then get stuck again. Stick with the one that works and get a THDP.
 
I have an ATR 303DP on my car, and it works just fine. I was recommended by ATR that if you intend to increase boost, you should use their Adjustable Boost Valve Kit (CV100A). Otherwise, you may encounter a problem with a sticking wastegate puck. Also, I wish there was an extra person helping with the install. I had to loosen and retighten about 4 or 5 times to center the DP between the body, control arm and heater box shield. But once it was centered and bolted down, the fit is great.
 
Originally posted by BLACK6PACK
If this is the same one they have been making, I would run, not walk, away. EVERY, and I mean, EVERY person I know that bought one had problems with the puck sticking. They would send it back to ATR to have it fixed, even though ATR claimed there was nothing wrong. It would work for a couple of weeks and then get stuck again. Stick with the one that works and get a THDP.
As Dr.Evil would say "just shushhhh".:D If you haven't used it ya can't knock it. My .002
 
Mine works great and I use the Turbonetics variable boost control regulator (10402-25) with it. I used the control valve from ATR in the beginning but found the Turbonetics deal worked ALOT better. It uses both ports on the wastegate and gives me solid, adjustable boost. Now the fit of the actual DP is not fun when installing, you know what I mean if you have one!
 
I still wanted to retain my CAT with the DP installation. I called Ramchargers (great guys & extremely helpful), and found out the CAT supplied with the THDP was a two-way cat (controls HC and CO only). If I wanted a three-way cat with a THDP, that would cost an additional $199. When I called ATR, I was told the cat that accompanied DP303 was GM589A, and was a three-way cat (controls HC,CO and NOx). So since I live in CA, I chose the DP with the three-way-cat. I'm sure the THDP fits and works fine. I probably would have ordered one if a three-way-cat accompanied that DP. Both vendors were very helpful, and I wouldn't hesitate to use either one.
 
Originally posted by Intercooler
As Dr.Evil would say "just shushhhh".:D If you haven't used it ya can't knock it. My .002

You can't deny people haven't had problems with this pipe. Over 20 people on this board alone. One as recently as a couple months ago. Who knows how many people are out there without internet access that have boost flutter problems and have no idea what is causing it.

It apears the reason bleed style boost controllers seem to cure the boost flutter is because rapid electronic solenoid cycling can cause the puck shaft to bind.

As for fit, once the original downpipe have been removed, I can install my Terry Houston DP at the track in about 10 minutes, without jacking up the car. I've done that more than once for back to back comparisons.

If you need to use a cat, I would just keep the stock downpipe and swap out for emissions test. A cat will flow less than stock elbow.

Buy an ATR THDP copy if you want one, but you can't go wrong with a Terry Houston.
 
Originally posted by UNGN


You can't deny people haven't had problems with this pipe. Over 20 people on this board alone. One as recently as a couple months ago. Who knows how many people are out there without internet access that have boost flutter problems and have no idea what is causing it.

It apears the reason bleed style boost controllers seem to cure the boost flutter is because rapid electronic solenoid cycling can cause the puck shaft to bind.

As for fit, once the original downpipe have been removed, I can install my Terry Houston DP at the track in about 10 minutes, without jacking up the car. I've done that more than once for back to back comparisons.

If you need to use a cat, I would just keep the stock downpipe and swap out for emissions test. A cat will flow less than stock elbow.

Buy an ATR THDP copy if you want one, but you can't go wrong with a Terry Houston.
Yes but I have come to the conclusion that some could F-up the most simple of mods;) Just my .002
 
Originally posted by Intercooler
Yes but I have come to the conclusion that some could F-up the most simple of mods;) Just my .002

Even if the 303 pipe was professionally installed by ATR themselves, it could still have a boost flutter problem. ATR's "solution" to the problem is using a manual boost control. This is mearly a "band-aid" it in no way solves the root cause of the flutter problem (shaft bind), but instead attacks the symptom.

A guy goes into a Doctor and says "Doc, My hand hurts when I tie my shoes"

Doctor ATR says "Here's some Vecro lace shoes....Next!"
 
I didn't mean to imply that the installation took a long time. If it would have centered on the first try, the install would take 10 minutes to drop the pipe in and bolt down. But since I wanted the pipe to be equal distance from the CA, heater box sheild and frame, I took the time to center the pipe before bolting it down. If there was someone holding the pipe in the exact postion I wanted, the install would have taken 10 minutes to bolt on. Maybe that is the reason there are complaints of their DP hitting and causing false knock. Regarding the puck binding issue, many vendors choose to recommend things that will enhance the performance of their products, and if you choose to ignore those recommendations, then you'll have to live with the consequences. ATR alerted me to the problem, what caused it and how to cure it. Therefore, if I choose to increase boost with my DP, I will follow their recommendation. Sorry to disagree with you UNGN (I know you have much experience on this board and others and I have learned a great many thing from your post on this board).
 
I had the wastegate shaft problem, they took it back, fixed it, and haven't had a problem since, free no less! They stood behind it, and if it breaks again they'll fix it again. I don't think it will happen though, it's been a year and no problems;)
 
mine works just fine- and havent had any problems-

but then again, i think my puck stays shut all the time cause im always running MEGA BOOST!!!

does anyone sell 30-0-45 psi boost gauges? :D
 
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