2QUICK2B6
Black Car Fever
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2004
- Messages
- 2,973
glad u made if beefy just looking out for a fellow member
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
SignUp Now!Kevin,
I think that jr. dragsters are a great way to get young people involved in our sport. Neck braces and gloves are a no brainer. They are inexpensive, effective and should be part of any racer's routine. If your daughter grew up racing and using all the right equipment, she'll feel weird without it.
I see so many people in our Buick community take the safety equipment way too lightly. Things can go really bad even in a 12 or 13 second car and there is a lot of kinetic energy involved. Better safe than sorry. I'll spend my money on safety gear before I'll make my car any faster.
Dave
Very good point here I have seen road Race Cars roll over at 65-70mph and flip end to end hitting the wall. When We have been at the drag stripe I have seen very few 12-11 sec. cars have any issues its when your going a lot faster that things normally get a bit out of hand. Hence the NHRA Rule 11.49 or faster has to have a cage. I know many people in our area that go way faster with no cage but we all have kids and drive our cars on the street. We dont go balls to the wall with the kids in the car or the wife even but when alone or on a track we sure as heck dolook at what road racers have for safety standards- even the "cheap" series like the 24 hours of LeMons and Chumpcar require fixed back race seats and SFI certified belts to be used and they have all sorts of rules about the roll cages. they are even getting to the point where they almost require the use of something like a Hans device in place of the standard cheap neck brace.
and these are $500 cars that are mostly lucky to get over 100mph..
after looking into the way road racers are built, i have a hard time thinking that most drag cars would be safe if most of the safety gear actually gets put to a test.
That would have scared the crap outa me tooI quit racing for almost 2 yrs after watching this happen to my buddys 86 stretched t bird with a Tommy Mauney chassis
![]()
![]()
you can see the top side bar over his head broke and somehow a peice of metal ran up his back ... the seat is twisted an torn where the shoulder belts go through
It is personal Pref. and what you really do with your car that deems the safety stuff is needed.
No,
I'll agree to disagree with you. If you take your car down the 1320, You should be smart enough to have and use all the required safety equipment. The requirements for a 10.00 car are NOT that hard to meet!! If you never intend on taking your car down the dragstrip, then you get to decide.
Yes, a dual purpose car is a pain crawling around the roll bar to get to into the back seat etc. But if you have the roll bar, you (and your family) will be safe. I have seen MANY severe crashes occur in 12 and 11 second cars. If you race, It is NOT a personal preference as to what safety equipment you choose to install. The track officials decide what you can and will get away with. Some tracks are VERY casual about safety and other enforce the rules to the letter. The NHRA and IHRA rules are very clear. And the rules were not written without considerable forethought. A 3500 lbs car traveling at 100 MPH has considerable kinetic energy and things can go bad very quickly. Trust me, I've seen it happen......and its never pretty.
I'll get off my soapbox now.
Dave
What is the device that attaches the helmet to a back brace? Does this interfere with a regular aluminium seat like an 18" kirky?
the hans
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HPP-DK11232-421/
shouldnt interfere
In the summer I drive my GN every chance I get I have to kids one is in a car seat. My car right now is getting a 4 point put in it I can always add the door bars later. We are making the cross bar behind the seats removable so that when I have the kids with I can just take the bar out and put it in the trunk. I may do this with the door bars to haven’t decided yet. But my point is I don’t think it will be in the way of the kids getting in and out. I also plan on having the bar padded and covered so it matches my car and gives some padding in case the kids do somehow hit the bar. I was just in here looking for ideas when I seen this thread. Chances are my car will never go in to the 10s and maybe not even 11.50 but I wanted it there for peace of mind. I was just going to post what you guys would think would be better a slandered 4 point or a 4 point that instead of having bars to the rear has the cage around the driver this would leave the bars going to the trunk off and I wouldn’t have to worry about the kids knocking their heads on them. I know neither would pass tech but like I said my car won’t be going faster than low 11s.
Would you mind taking some pics of the set up? I doubt that I'll put a bar in my car but I'd like to see what you've done with it.It's easy to make the rear bars high, and out of the way. My street car has a Crome Molly 8 point. The rear bars going to the trunk stay tight to the roof line and come down tight to the rear glass and through the speaker holes. I had to move the speakers inward. The bar across the back of the seats is a pain for passengers but for kids it's no problem. I can pass tech for 10.0 and everything is still stock interior. With the exception of a 5 point harness. Not to sure if the stock seat with the harness is legal. I think it really requires strap location holes.
Maybe someone can chime in on this rule...
Would you mind taking some pics of the set up? I doubt that I'll put a bar in my car but I'd like to see what you've done with it.