ATR Header overhaul

[turbodave231]

Well I finally got a case of the A$$ and yanked the passenger side S2 ATR header off my car. I've struggled to keep this damn thing sealed, access to the bolts is impossible, sparkplug wires burn up and can't get the valve cover off either.

The cyl head flange was warped, I've fixed multiple cracks......most importantly. My new GT42-76 turbo won't fit. Time for a re-do.

Here are some pictures of my little project:

 

[turbodave231]

Some more pics

 

[turbodave231]

more

 

[fxdxlr8]

Very Nice

I would definately be interested in purchasing any copies you might make.

 

[turbodave231]

Sorry, I'm not going to reproduce these. Major amount of work!!

Dave

 

[PaCemkr86]

nice work, im impressed

 

[gbodygmachine]

Great looking work man. Cant wait to see them completed.

 

[charlief1]

I'm watching your work and it looks really nice. Waiting on the final product.

 

[gbodygmachine]

where are you going to run the spark plug wires? looks tight.

 

[turbodave231]

It will be tight for SP wires......but no worse than before. I'll route the wires from the front of the engine. I already have firesleeve on the MSD wires and high temp covers on the boots. That was the only way to make them live in this area.

I'm not sure if I'll have to rework my DP to clear everything. I need to tack weld the turbo support bracket and then drop the engine back in the chassis. Even if I have to rework the DP, it will still be worth the effort. The ATR design was just too much to live with any longer.

The redesign moves the turbo outboard about 1" and forward about 3/4". I've done some major reinforcement of the turbo support. I made a CNC base plate from 1/2" steel that bolts to the head (in three places) and then 3/8" steel struts to weld the plate to the turbo flange. I hope it is enough to accomodate the GT42-76 and keep it from moving around!

I may not have the new turbo in place, but I hope to have the new header done for Norwalk.

 

[gbodygmachine]

It will be tight for SP wires......but no worse than before. I'll route the wires from the front of the engine. I already have firesleeve on the MSD wires and high temp covers on the boots. That was the only way to make them live in this area.

I'm not sure if I'll have to rework my DP to clear everything. I need to tack weld the turbo support bracket and then drop the engine back in the chassis. Even if I have to rework the DP, it will still be worth the effort. The ATR design was just too much to live with any longer.

The redesign moves the turbo outboard about 1" and forward about 3/4". I've done some major reinforcement of the turbo support. I made a CNC base plate from 1/2" steel that bolts to the head (in three places) and then 3/8" steel struts to weld the plate to the turbo flange. I hope it is enough to accomodate the GT42-76 and keep it from moving around!

I may not have the new turbo in place, but I hope to have the new header done for Norwalk.

It looks great. We have some ATR headers floating around the shop, but I have never really looked at how they fit. The turbo support brackets you have are a great idea. Got me thinking

 

[sweetv6]

nice and tight fit

great job !

please post the final result

Claude

 

[turbodave231]

New header is done!!

The spark plug wires now route under the header using 90 degree boots. Not too bad really.

How do you like my turbo mount/support? Can you say OVERKILL?! I could lift the car by the new support!!

 

[turbodave231]

More pics

 

[turbodave231]

While I was at it, I made a custom flange to mate the intercooler pipe to the new GT42-76.

 

[Alky V6]

Very nice. One thing that I'm not sure about. Stainless material has a high expansion rate. More similar to that of aluminum. It would be best to make up a support that supports the turbo weight, but is not rigid to the block or heads. A turbo support that allows for free movement of the turbo due to expansion of the tubing while supporting the weight of the turbo would be the best solution. Restricting movement can lead to cracks as easily as not supporting the weight at all.

Have you tried using solar flux to weld stainless? Much less of a headache to deal with than setting up for back purging.

Stage II heads. (drool)

 

[disco stu]

Dave, what do you set your regulator at when back purging?

And Don, I've never tried solar flux. Does it weld as clean?

 

[turbodave231]

I used Argon or solar flux depending on how easy it was to seal up the tubes.

Solar flux works ok but I've blow through it in a few instances. Backpurge works great but eats up gas. I split the argon after the flowmeter for the backpurge. I jacked up the pressure 2-3 psi to compensate for the added pressure drop. I just cracked the valve enough to let it flow and waited for the tube to be full of argon before striking the arc.

Don, Agree with your statements about expansion. However I had to support the weight of this new bigger turbo. I couldn't let the header support the weight....It would certainly crack under the weight and movement of the turbo.

Note to self: Next design, incorporate a bellows to allow for expansion.

Just thinking......I could use shoulder bolts where my bracket bolts to the head. The bracket and turbo could float forward as the tubes grow. That would still support the weight AND allow for expansion. You got me thinking now!! Thanks DON!!

 

[Alky V6]

Dave, what do you set your regulator at when back purging?

And Don, I've never tried solar flux. Does it weld as clean?

If your tube fitting job is titts, then the solar flux does a great job. The quality of weldment through to the back is very good. The flux does leave a hard coating over the inside weld that is nearly impossible to clean off. I just blow out what I can with an air gun and leave the rest alone. Never had a problem with it. I pretty much abandoned back purging after trying the solar flux.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Looks too nice to put in a car! What are you using for header gaskets??? Might be interested in these. Gaskets