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ATR vs. H&R sway bar?

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You are right about the H&R being more streetable. But by the time you can really utilize the Wolfe bar, your car has already lost a lot of its street manners. I know what everybody is going to say, " I drive my 10 second GN 5,000 miles to church and pick up groceries with my Mother every Sunday, yada, yada, yada." Believe me when mine is not broken I drive the hell out of it. That's why it has a pair of child seats in the back seat. :D

But if it is NHRA legal it has the minimum of a roll bar, if not a cage. You have to climb over a bar to get in to both front seats, unless you have swingouts. And you have already lost the back seat because of the crossbar on the main hoop unless you are a 5 year old that thinks it is a jungle gym. More than likely a 10 second Regal has at least front drag shocks, sway bar removed, and skinnys. So even though they are drivable, a lot has been already been sacrificed to go fast. But to each their own. The H&R bar is nice, no doubt about that. But if I was to spend the money for a new bar, it would be a Wolfe. Used on the other hand. :D I have friends that run the Wolfe style on their Mustangs with no problems.
 
Still running a stocker. :D I have thought about one of these Wolfe Race Craft - Detail .

I had a double adjustable Wolfe on one of my previous Stage cars and can tell you that it is not something you will want on the street. Its clanky and rattles a lot. Very annoying. They seem to work very well at the track tho but I would not recommend one for the street.
 
Gnbrett is correct. The Wolf Bar is not street friendly IMO. Make a lot of noise and really clunks when your tires drop into a dip while driving. It does launch the car at the track.
I had been driving with no front sway bar and just the ATR style rear bar. The car was all over the road and I thought my manual steering was way to slow for normal driving. On small radius turns I would be turning the wheel like crazy to keep the car in the lane. I added a BMR Anti Sway Bar and solved all my steering problems. The car handles like a stocker on the street and I can live with the slow manual steering. Apparently when I turned the wheel the body was all over the place and it felt like the wheels weren't turning. I haven't made it to the track yet but so far a big improvement.
 
I just took an ATR bar off my car this weekend and replaced it with a stock bar.
The ATR bar was put on with spacers/washers/etc... and creaked, crunched,squeaked,rattled,etc... The car sounded like a horse & buggy every time I pulled into my driveway.

Since putting the factory bar back on, the car is comfortable and quiet now... without a single squeak or rattle.

I think if I put something different on again, it will be the HR style bar that uses end links and mounts via U-bolts on the axle tubes.

That said...
Has anyone tried adapting an F-body rear bar to a G-body ? The F-body bar mounts and works identical to the HR bar...
 
You are right about the H&R being more streetable. But by the time you can really utilize the Wolfe bar, your car has already lost a lot of its street manners. I know what everybody is going to say, " I drive my 10 second GN 5,000 miles to church and pick up groceries with my Mother every Sunday, yada, yada, yada." Believe me when mine is not broken I drive the hell out of it. That's why it has a pair of child seats in the back seat. :D

But if it is NHRA legal it has the minimum of a roll bar, if not a cage. You have to climb over a bar to get in to both front seats, unless you have swingouts. And you have already lost the back seat because of the crossbar on the main hoop unless you are a 5 year old that thinks it is a jungle gym. More than likely a 10 second Regal has at least front drag shocks, sway bar removed, and skinnys. So even though they are drivable, a lot has been already been sacrificed to go fast. But to each their own. The H&R bar is nice, no doubt about that. But if I was to spend the money for a new bar, it would be a Wolfe. Used on the other hand. :D I have friends that run the Wolfe style on their Mustangs with no problems.

I have no experience with them, but they say that you will wear out the end links quick on the street...I know Mustangs do it, but maybe their lighter weight keeps them from putting as much stress on them as a Buick would.
 
Your car looks great Claude!
Paul
Thanks Paul for the nice comments! ;)

-Slow91z said:
I have no experience with them, but they say that you will wear out the end links quick on the street...
Well, when I bought my H&R bar, I had to put better quality rod ends other than the ones supplied because for some reason they had some slack in them :rolleyes: even when new, creating some rattle, but since I did that, I never had to touch it again!

Claude. :D
 
I have the Wolfe bar in mine and love it on the street. No rattles, sqweeks or hard banging. I don't even notice its there. Even have full 3" tail pipes on the car as well, not dumps. At the track she hooks consistant 1.3's
 
Anyone have any pics of the H&R bar mounted up? I currently run the ATR bar and love it. Huge improvment over the stock bar and mine doesn't rattle at all, but I'm not saying they don't in general. Anyone else agree with the ATR bar doing damage to the control arms like previously stated?
 
Anyone have any pics of the H&R bar mounted up? I currently run the ATR bar and love it. Huge improvment over the stock bar and mine doesn't rattle at all, but I'm not saying they don't in general. Anyone else agree with the ATR bar doing damage to the control arms like previously stated?

Yes, definitely. If you are running the ATR or ATR replica rear sway bar and mounting ot stock control arms, you need to change out the control arms that the ATR mounts to or block them asap. Or go to a nice set of aftermarket control arms. I run the Global West Del-A-Lum's and the spherical rod end bearings / bushings. There are less expensive sets out there. The ATR bar is no match for any of the other differently designed ones for handling atributes in general, and specifically even traction applications such as race. HTH
 
I put a ATR-replica swaybar on my car back in February. Along with dual airbags. Also have boxed stock LCAs with rubber bushings in them. Best 60' to date is a 1.571 on a 255/50/16 MT DRs (10.5") on a virtually unprepped track, with a somewhat soft launch. My car leaves straight as well. Cant beat it for $159...

Nothing against the H&R bar at all, just too rich for my blood right now.
 
Anyone have any pics of the H&R bar mounted up? I currently run the ATR bar and love it. Huge improvment over the stock bar and mine doesn't rattle at all, but I'm not saying they don't in general. Anyone else agree with the ATR bar doing damage to the control arms like previously stated?

IMG_0820.jpg
 
Anyone have any pics of the H&R bar mounted up? I currently run the ATR bar and love it. Huge improvment over the stock bar and mine doesn't rattle at all, but I'm not saying they don't in general. Anyone else agree with the ATR bar doing damage to the control arms like previously stated?

When I switched to aftermarket LCA and removed my stockers, they were warped, crushed and destroyed by the ATR swaybar.

I was going to give them to someone who wanted a set to box, but they were in such bad shape, I would feel bad even giving them away.
 
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