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Bathtub intake gasket...

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S10xGN

RETIRED!
Joined
May 26, 2001
Messages
2,563
How the h*^% do you cut these down and use a set of FelPro 1200's with the bathtub's center section? I munged my old one up (I think) and now I'm considering buying a new bathtub and stacking them both.
 
I guess I'll have to make one. I remember (many years ago!) there was a tech article someone had done on how to cut down a "bathtub" and just use the center section, but I cannot find it now...

Edit: Found a post similar to the one I remember, but not exact. It references some info on GNTTYPE but most of that is "404". There were 2 pics that showed and mine look about like them, but my pan won't stay in place. At least I won't trust it to stay in place as it sets...
 
Learn something new everyday. Never heard of anyone making a valley pan cover before, but it makes sense with felpro 1200s.
 
You have to trim the stock bathtub gasket to remove the actual intake ports, but leave enough so that the little "hooks" still grab and enough gasket left to hold the valley tray in place. I also cut the 1200 enough to clear where the bathtub gasket needs to tough. I cut the 1200 between the water ports and intake as well as in the EGR area. I would not sandwich them. I really like the sheetmetal valley pan in those pictures. Seems fairly easy to make.
 
I cut the ports off of the valley pan, then drill it and screw it to the bottom of the intake. Simple and fairly easy. I've used sheet metal screws with epoxy, and 10-32 allen screws with locktight. Or, ditch the PCV and don't worry about it.
 
You have to trim the stock bathtub gasket to remove the actual intake ports, but leave enough so that the little "hooks" still grab and enough gasket left to hold the valley tray in place. I also cut the 1200 enough to clear where the bathtub gasket needs to tough. I cut the 1200 between the water ports and intake as well as in the EGR area. I would not sandwich them. I really like the sheetmetal valley pan in those pictures. Seems fairly easy to make.

Greg,

I've got it trimmed to the max, but there's still too much "overlap" where both gaskets come into play. I'm not coordinated enough to get it to stay in place with so little contact area, so I'll prolly build something tomorrow that will snap in under the heads or if I get frustrated with it, just screw it to the intake as Ken does.
 
felpro1200.th.jpg
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Cut the Fel-pro where the x is marked and leave that part on the bathtub gasket.
 
Thanks to Jeremy Walters, I have a dedicated valley pan now. In the interim, I drew up a diagram to build one...
 

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Russ,

Looks good! Where did you have to trim it at? Near the pushrods? Glad it worked out for you. Talk to you later. Jeremy
 
It seems to me the object of using a valley pan intake gasket is to prevent oil from entering the PCV?

With that in mind, for performance street builds we have just put a baffle around the PCV hole on the bottom side of the intake.

The one pictured below is probably the most "extreme" one we have done to date! :)

There is a space between welds so air can travel through there, as well as the perforated holes in the end cap.
 

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What worked for me is to tee the PCV. On the tee use a .3 cracking psi check valve. When in boost the motor can vent thru it...durning boost to vacuum transition no sucking oil.

I'm using the valley felpro gasket with no mods.
 
Hey, I found it again.

Page Title

They have them for our cars. $35 when I bought mine plus shipping. Works out very nicely.
 
Nick, there has to be some benefit to keeping hot oil off the bottom of the plenum as well, besides just keeping oil out of the PCV valve. Can't say how much, but it has to help some :-).
 
Its been my experience that oil still puddles on AMP plate and a good air-oil seperator is needed as PCV valve will suck up some oil on plate ..and exhaust will smoke blue..dont forget to install a check valve not to let boost enter air-oil seperator (catchcan)
 
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