Boost hits too hard. Should I solve it with a bigger turbo?

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I second the .85 housing, he could have a .58 on it now. The turbo housing can be used for tuning aids also. My TE69 was totally out of control from a dig on the street until I put a .85 on it. It already had the front mount. I had a .58 and then bought a used .63 housing had 2 stripped bolt holes in it and I had to use the .85. I didn't know if it was going to fit but it turned out to be the match to calm it down. Didn't mess with my torque converter. By the way what is your turbine housing A/R?
 
Ok, so to respond to everyone.
Cam is a 212 / 212 flat tappet.
This car has 4 throttle positions. Idle, cruise, turbo flutter, and balls out.
Not sure what a 0 pump converter is. It is a vigilante 5 disk. It honestly flashes pretty damn high with this setup. Higher than 3200 now.
Tires are Toyo Proxes drag radials. 275/45/16.
I'm only running 25psi on the street :eek: With pump gas and alky.

Sure, I could turn the boost down, but what fun is that? I'm just thinking that if it came on a little softer I may be able to dig in better. The pte exhaust housing says it is a .63 AR, but I know it is bigger than that. It literally goes from 10 to 25psi of boost in a blink of an eye.

I was able to help my traction issue a bit. I thought I already had my baseline suspensions UCA's in the middle hole, but they were in the top. I put them in the middle and now the tires dig even though they still spin.
 
If you do go bigger on the turbo, bisons 62MM MFS /Stage V exhaust still spools real well and pulls hard. I have one in a stock appearing compressor cover with a .63 Garrett turbine housing. My cam is about what you have and my converter stalls about 3k.
 
You need to raise boost gradually based on rpm, tps and speed.
Boost is hitting too fast to slow speed hence the tires spinning.



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You need to raise boost gradually based on rpm, tps and speed.
Boost is hitting too fast to slow speed hence the tires spinning.



Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

Really? What's the best way to do that on these cars? Some preturbo exhaust leaks might help...
 
I would not change the combo at this point when you are close to having some real fun.you need to 60ft the car period,when I ran a 3200 on a 49 the taller tire really helped with the initial hit,you need to get the right tire for your combo on the car,you have a nice timeslip coming if you get it right.28/29 inch tire on a hoosier drag radial or better yet a set of slicks and you will be able to leave hard.
 
It sounds to me like he wants to set it up for better control on the street. that exile piece (and all of the NLR stuff) are pretty drag racing specific.

he mentioned liking the big-block feel, what goes with that is half-power at half throttle, and instant response.

he has the second part, needs the first part.

Bob
 
Somewhere along the way, the .85 housing was mentioned. I run the Precision .85 on my TE44, it's been there for many years and works fine for my setup.

Here's a couple pictures for comparison on speed of spool

The first picture is at throttle hit
and the second picture is at full boost.

Take notice of the times of occurance at the lower left of each picture and you'll see how long it takes my turbo to get up on full song. (1.553 seconds)

boost in.jpg


boost top.jpg
 
Other option.... softer rear suspension.
By letting the car squat a little more the torque goes to the suspension and less to the tires.

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You need better tires. I've never seen one of these under 500hp where I couldn't get it to work on dry warm pavement with drag radials. Drill a couple holes quarter inch holes in your wastegate puck if you want it to spool slower.
 
I run a turbonetics racegate with a manual boost controller. I will play with tire pressure. I was really just wondering if a bigger turbo will spool up slower and help out with the traction problem. My suspension is setup more for cornering than launching and that hurts me the most. Just trying to find a happy mid point.

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what sort of manual boost controller? how low can you turn the boost? when you turn it down, does the part throttle surge get better?

B
 
Manual boost controller is pressure regulator knob. Pretty basic. If I turn it all the way down I am at spring pressure (8psi). No flutter there. Flutter is only at 10-12psi under part throttle. Just as Alky is coming on.
 
Sounds like you're suffering from compressor surge (classic symptoms). Now, the 64 thousand dollar question is how to cure it. Hmmm good question, and I don't have a good answer except that sometimes it can be cured by changing the volume if the plumbing between the compressor output and the doghouse.
Hopefully others will have some input on compressor surge cures.
 
te44's seem to like to surge really easy,

my thought are to find a way to keep the really-quick response yet make the car not blow the tires away. With a 44 and that converter you
most likely can't stop wheelspin once it starts without getting all the way off the throttle.

my thoughts were to set a boost controller up so that he had 10 psi at half throttle, progressing to 20+ (or whatever) at 90%+ throttle. that way
if the tires start to spin, you back off the pedal a bit to drop the boost without having surge or dumping the boost entirely.

I set our road race cars up this way a few years back so they wouldn't run into the cars in front of them.

I'm not sure what controllers are available that will do that (the ISAC will, and I am working on some new stuff that will)

going to a bigger turbo will soften the boost rise, and reduce (most likely) the tendency to surge at part throttle. but you will lose the instant boost you have now.

Bob
 
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