Brakes are soft, clunking and clicking sounds

[m3x1c0]

Hey all. My car has been converted to Vacuum brakes. A little while ago my MC blew out and left me with little brakes until I replaced it. In that process after replacing the MC I still had little brakes. Took it apart and cleaned the Proportioning valve which fixed things. However, I've noticed that while the car stops fine, the pedal feels quite soft. This is the first car I've had in a long time with power brakes though so I could just be whining.

What is concerning me is that there has developed a clicking noise when I push the pedal down and I can feel a light clunking in my left foot through the floor board as well as brake pedal. I don't see anything wrong visually at the moment. The only thing I've changed since fixing the MC was adding a sway bar (it was installed, but didnt have endlinks put in.) I plan on getting it on jacks after work to see if something is broken on the suspension. Could the booster also be bad?

 

[chopped39]

Booster failing is slim but it can happen. check caliper hardware. right upper control arm bushing. ball joints. has the suspension been redone yet? did you replace brake pedal assembly?

 

[turbo87adam]

Did you visually inspect all 4 corners of your breaking system for broken parts and leaks . Wheel cylinders in rear are a common area to leak . Might also want to try and gravity bleed your brake system on all 4 wheels then go back and rebleed using brake pedal to ensure no air is trapped in system.

 

[m3x1c0]

Booster failing is slim but it can happen. check caliper hardware. right upper control arm bushing. ball joints. has the suspension been redone yet? did you replace brake pedal assembly?

Going to check suspension in a couple hours. I do not think it has been redone but the car only has 56k on it. I did not do the conversion but am confident that if the assembly had to be changed then it was. Any way to verify?

Did you visually inspect all 4 corners of your breaking system for broken parts and leaks . Wheel cylinders in rear are a common area to leak . Might also want to try and gravity bleed your brake system on all 4 wheels then go back and rebleed using brake pedal to ensure no air is trapped in system.

I will check the car for leaks tonight. Never dealt with calipers before though, if they are broken will they leak like drum cylinders will?

keep in mind that I can feel something in my left foot on the floor over bumps and crests in front of driveways and such. Thats why I suspect this may be suspension related or a combination of brake/ susp.

 

[chopped39]

could be body bushing. vacuum brake pedal is different than power master pedal. Who did you get the vacuum set up from? Kirbans has a booster that uses factory pedal. others need pedal replaced. 56k the front end might need a few parts

 

[m3x1c0]

Haven't had a chance to re-bleed the brakes yet or pull the rear drums (tackling a bunch of other gremlins). I did inspect all four wheels and if they are leaking they aren't leaking enough to show from the bottoms of the drums. I have noticed that the clicking happens over light dips in road surface (not heavy bumps) and that it happens whether I'm braking or not. So Im thinking the brakes are fine but am concerned because the brake light keeps cutting on at random times. The noise has gone from a click to more of a pop and I think its getting worse. Someone mentioned a body bushing? how can I check that? I am going to unhook the sway bar again to see if the noise goes away. I put the front of the car up and jiggled the wheels, there was no play when wiggling the wheels at 12oclock and 6oclock, but a lttle bit of play from 3oclock and 9oclock. Not a lot, probably just normal bearing wear, certainly nothing that would cause popping or clicking.

 

[Steve V]

Check your left side upper control arm bushings, look to see if power steering fluid as leaked onto them and helped them rot out. But just by being 30 yrs olds they could be toast with no oil helping the situation.

 

[chopped39]

Im thinking out of the box here but check your left front sway bar end link.
The sway bar is the round bar that sits in little u shaped brackets with bushings and at each end there is a link going to lower control arm. If one of the sides is busted it will pop over bumps and dips in the road. post a pic of left front lower control arm from the front of car. cheap and easy fix

 

[m3x1c0]

Haha at long last I believe I have found the issue! Had the front up on stands today and decided to wiggle the steering shaft at the joint to check play. *clink clink clink* I can hear it through the firewall! Have no idea how this is assembled but looks like it's somewhere up toward the column.

 

[Steve V]

Thats the I shaft get a repro one from Kirban or a "Jeep" shaft. I have a Jeep shaft at the house if you want to try it. I believe you can buy just the rag joint now.

 

[87geeinn]

Did you bench bleed the MC before install?

 

[m3x1c0]

Thats the I shaft get a repro one from Kirban or a "Jeep" shaft. I have a Jeep shaft at the house if you want to try it. I believe you can buy just the rag joint now.

I think I already have the Jeep shaft? It looks like the one on the bottom here:

 

[Steve V]

Are you sure that the plastic cover just is missing? Go take a pic of your car.

 

[m3x1c0]

Are you sure that the plastic cover just is missing? Go take a pic of your car.

Nothing is sure with me! haha heres some pics

and the thunk:

 

[87geeinn]

That little bit of wobble/play in your steering column is normal and not the source of your problem(s).

 

[m3x1c0]

That little bit of wobble/play in your steering column is normal and not the source of your problem(s).

Body bushings maybe? Im at a loss. Got an inspection and alignment and they didnt find anything in the suspension.

 

[Steve V]

Replace that shaft with the reproduction OEM style Kirban sells. They did not find anything in the suspension cause there's nothing there. We looked real good when we had everything done. BTW how did you get a sticker without a cat?

Short of redoing all the lower bushings in the control arms and body it is gonna be hard to pin point.

 

[m3x1c0]

Replace that shaft with the reproduction OEM style Kirban sells. They did not find anything in the suspension cause there's nothing there. We looked real good when we had everything done. BTW how did you get a sticker without a cat?

Short of redoing all the lower bushings in the control arms and body it is gonna be hard to pin point.

The inspectors were real friendly!

I looked at the body bolt/bushing and it's kinda rusty. I guess I'll get a set. Also got me some aluminum bumper supports and saving for the spoolfool fillers. Probably be best to just do all of that at the same time. I really suspect the body bushings.

 

[Steve V]

The inspectors were real friendly!

I looked at the body bolt/bushing and it's kinda rusty. I guess I'll get a set. Also got me some aluminum bumper supports and saving for the spoolfool fillers. Probably be best to just do all of that at the same time. I really suspect the body bushings.

You are welcome to do it here. Lift will really help with those bushings.

 

[DavidM]

Check your left side upper control arm bushings, look to see if power steering fluid as leaked onto them and helped them rot out. But just by being 30 yrs olds they could be toast with no oil helping the situation.

Stupid GM plastic PS resevoirs!!!!!!!!!! Who the funk designed that garbage!!!!