Bunch of brake quetions....and some suspension

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Im switching to the blazer spindles soon. Charlie what is the 13" rotor option you mentioned?

Znix posted the info Irv. I just tried to find it but I can't. You may want to PM him about it.:)

Where can you get these blazer spindles? Every search I've done leads me to drop and raise spindles, or spindle parts, but not stock spindles.

The spindles are for the 98-02 (?) Blazer 4 door. If you can't find them locally you can get them off evilbay. There's a guy on there that sells nothing but S-10 parts and he offers them up complete for $200 plus shipping.
 
The spindles are for the 98-02 (?) Blazer 4 door. If you can't find them locally you can get them off evilbay. There's a guy on there that sells nothing but S-10 parts and he offers them up complete for $200 plus shipping.

I looked on evilbay, but found only drop spindles. When you say S-10 are you talking about a p/u or is there a S10 blazer? Any chance you can post a link to the ebay seller? I'm liking the sound of $200 as opposed to $1600 for AFX :cool: .....Thanks
 
2 wd 4 door blazer 98-02

Contact these guys and see if they have any right now. They sell them fairly regularly so they may have some that haven't been put on auction yet.

s10warehouse | eBay
 
any 98+ blazer spindle will work. Doesn't matter if its 2wd or 4wd, it just has to be a blazer. The bracket that bolts on to the spindle is a little over 100 bucks last time I checked and has been around for some time and is nothing secret. I'm going to put my s10 blazer brakes on with ceramic pads over the winter after all the powdercoating is done. If they don't seem enough even with hydroboost I will definitely go bigger after I get wheels. And to save money you can either get a set of vette calipers used or get aftermarket ones that have no writing on them. I would upgrade to the hellwig rear bar and a hollow 3rd gen bar if you haven't already. My iroc would take a 90* corner entering at over 50mph and be perfectly managable even with 15 inch tires. My goal is to be able to do the same with my buick.
 
I was thinking about doing some brake upgrading and wondering what I should go with. I would like to take the car on some street courses eventually, but would still like to have the option of running 15" wheels, since that's what i currently have. 1. So should I just drop the bucks and go with Baer, or Wilwood, or do the blazer brakes? 2. Also is it worth getting those AFX spindles for better geometry? 3. Should I get a drop spindle? 4. Will I need taller then my 5658 coils? I also plan on getting new upper and lower control arms (front only as the rear is h and r). 5. Which ones should I go with? 6. If I'm doing all this should I grab some new pitman arms or anything else.

Any input would be greatly appreciated :biggrin:

1)buy PBR brakes. I looked on the back of my Baer brakes and it said PBR...why not just buy the same brakes for half the cost? Unless you like shiny paint. Then by all means spend 2x's the money. I put AFCO rotors on mine and I love em.

2)AFX will fix the geometry issues like no other product. Next best thing is the stage2 plus arms, in my opinion. I believe there are factory ball joints that work besides the Howe ones, however will they work with the SPC arm? I don't know.

3)No drop spindles. I can show you some pages from "How to make Your Muscle Car Handle" that explains why its not a good idea unless you change a few other areas of the suspension.

4)Don't need front lower arms. Waste of money.

5)Get some Varishock double adjustable shocks instead of the LCAs in the front. Only rebuildable aluminum shock that allows for that kind of adjustment (256 settings...yes, 256)

6)Plot the points and find the instant center with the new pieces. If you need to raise/lower the pitman arm then go from there.

I would checkout Hellwig's rear swaybar too. Its super cheap and fully adjustable, and mounts to the frame so it mechanically is functional, unlike bars that mount to existing holes.

If you want, I can send you some scanned pages I took from my book that explains why you don't really need the AFX spindles, and why the lowers aren't a real necessity.

I just spent an hour today on the phone with a company and I asked the guy straight up if adding LCAs in the front will really do much for my car and he told me that they honestly wouldn't. He didn't try to sell me on anything, and explained so much stuff to me, it was amazing.

Also, if you're considering grabbing from SCandC (who I spent an hour with on the phone today) then call them and they'll be honest and tell you what you need. You gotta figure if the guy wrote a well-respected book on handling, and has helped design parts that other companies copy...he probably knows what he is talking about. I told him my uncle was looking to drop quite a bit of money on a suspension package and he told me honestly that I didn't need quite a few things and saved my uncle a ton of money. That gets my respect.

There is a reason their suspension packages pull from different vendors. No 1 company makes the best parts for every respective area.

Thats my 2cents. I don't know a lot about suspensions. I'm reading as much as I can, and talking with people who have learned from others and have years of experience tuning cars.
 
Would it be stupid to just do the front brakes for now and upgrade the drums a little further down the road?

make sure you do some research on what brakes you put on.. I saved 26lbs on the front switching from my GW UCAs and Baer 13" rotors.. The rotors and calipers were almost 10lbs each!

Checkout AFCOs replacement stock rotors. 2.5lbs lighter and 25% stronger than stock. Or look into PBR as they make Baer's stuff.
 
any 98+ blazer spindle will work. Doesn't matter if its 2wd or 4wd, it just has to be a blazer.

The 2WD are the only ones that will work Jesse. The 4WD spindles mount differently. The lower ball joint on the lower 4WD unit mounts with the stud pointing downward. Both of the ball joints on the 4WD design point downward and on the 2WD have the lower pointing up and the upper pointing down.
 
1)buy PBR brakes. I looked on the back of my Baer brakes and it said PBR...why not just buy the same brakes for half the cost? Unless you like shiny paint. Then by all means spend 2x's the money. I put AFCO rotors on mine and I love em.

2)AFX will fix the geometry issues like no other product. Next best thing is the stage2 plus arms, in my opinion. I believe there are factory ball joints that work besides the Howe ones, however will they work with the SPC arm? I don't know.

3)No drop spindles. I can show you some pages from "How to make Your Muscle Car Handle" that explains why its not a good idea unless you change a few other areas of the suspension.

4)Don't need front lower arms. Waste of money.

5)Get some Varishock double adjustable shocks instead of the LCAs in the front. Only rebuildable aluminum shock that allows for that kind of adjustment (256 settings...yes, 256)

6)Plot the points and find the instant center with the new pieces. If you need to raise/lower the pitman arm then go from there.

I would checkout Hellwig's rear swaybar too. Its super cheap and fully adjustable, and mounts to the frame so it mechanically is functional, unlike bars that mount to existing holes.

If you want, I can send you some scanned pages I took from my book that explains why you don't really need the AFX spindles, and why the lowers aren't a real necessity.

I just spent an hour today on the phone with a company and I asked the guy straight up if adding LCAs in the front will really do much for my car and he told me that they honestly wouldn't. He didn't try to sell me on anything, and explained so much stuff to me, it was amazing.

Also, if you're considering grabbing from SCandC (who I spent an hour with on the phone today) then call them and they'll be honest and tell you what you need. You gotta figure if the guy wrote a well-respected book on handling, and has helped design parts that other companies copy...he probably knows what he is talking about. I told him my uncle was looking to drop quite a bit of money on a suspension package and he told me honestly that I didn't need quite a few things and saved my uncle a ton of money. That gets my respect.

There is a reason their suspension packages pull from different vendors. No 1 company makes the best parts for every respective area.

Thats my 2cents. I don't know a lot about suspensions. I'm reading as much as I can, and talking with people who have learned from others and have years of experience tuning cars.
I agree,

There are "Several" companies out there that sell products that correct the geometry short comings of the G-Body suspension. Like Kyle Tucker (owner of DSE) for example he is a former GM Engineer who today carries his knowledge over into his products to correct many of those short comings into a complete package that "Works" and that is "Proven" on the track by Many of their customers. He is also very close friends with Mark Stielow (who was also a GM Engineer) and wrote a book called "Pro-Touring" Engineered Performance where Kyle and DSE are mentioned quite a bit on how they correct geometry issues with their products. Same can be said for Hotchkis and Ridetech Etc. who are selling their products to customers that are competing against them and Beating them with their own products, To Me, It don't get more proven than that! In today's time we shouldn't be narrow mined when it comes to suspensions for our G-Bodies, with new technology comes new designs and new products that do very well in correcting geometry short comings.
 
1)buy PBR brakes. I looked on the back of my Baer brakes and it said PBR...why not just buy the same brakes for half the cost? Unless you like shiny paint. Then by all means spend 2x's the money. I put AFCO rotors on mine and I love em.

Do you have a PBR model number for them? The PBR website is barren of information and looking up PBR parts for our cars just gives the stock style stuff. Will those Baer calipers you have fit a 15" rim for the drag strip? I'm considering suspension/brake upgrades but want to retain the ablity to run 15" rims for the drags.
 
Do you have a PBR model number for them? The PBR website is barren of information and looking up PBR parts for our cars just gives the stock style stuff. Will those Baer calipers you have fit a 15" rim for the drag strip? I'm considering suspension/brake upgrades but want to retain the ablity to run 15" rims for the drags.
The PBR calipers he is referring to were fazed out of BAER years ago for their SS4 4-piston caliper line. BAER now makes all their calipers in house and do not sell PBR calipers anymore to my knowledge.

Maybe Rick will chime in for better clarification..
 
The pics of the PBR performance calipers on their website didn't look like the Baer SS4 ones at all. That's what confused me. Didn't know if PBR made other styles. I remember the old style Baers that did look like the PBR ones though.
 
Baer used to be the North American distributor for PBR, and our old SS, Sport and Track systems featured the same high pressure cast 2 piston that was found on the late 96 Grand Sport Corvette and the 94-95 Cobra. We still have some pieces lying around for people interested in piecing their own systems together.

As Scot mentioned these were phased out roughly a year ago or so as PBR has discontinued the sales of new units, though there are many rebuilders still selling parts, and there are many parts around for these as they were used for years.

The 2 piston PBR at one time was available on an 11" rotor to fit a 15" wheel but this is long gone. This used a 1LE style anchor that have been long discontinued. I can probably piece together parts for a 12" or 13" but they will not fit 15's.

Our new style calipers (SS4) are a real nice piece, and can be mounted on an 11" rotor to fit most 15" (check with a template to verify fitment). For guys looking to save a buck they can get them in a kit form where you have to modify your spindle to make them fit (common with all other kits such as Wilwood, Aerospace etc). These start at $995, and come with aluminum hubs, brackets, braided hoses, fittings etc. E-mail Scot directly if you are interested in this :)

There are many ways to go for front brakes, and all of the ones mentioned here are better than the stock set up! :)

HTH!
 
FWIW, Rick Elam (White T) works at Baer so he definitely knows his stuff! Plus he has 2 TR's! Plus he has done extensive research and engineering on the suspension of the TR!!
Conrad
 
Indeed. Also appears to have a superhuman budget.

I ran the 1LE Camaro on the roadcourse last year. Stock 12" GM solid vented rotors all around with Hawk HP+ pads. Fantastic braking and zero fade, so I know it works, and it's 20-year old technology. Not as sexy as a $3000 Baer system, but sure works. The RIGHT factory stuff works fine for most normal applications, unless you're after the bling (see Hot Rod Magazine.)

To be fair, thanks to guys like Rick that are actually getting companies to R&D products that bring our classics into the 21st century. I'm sure the Baer brakes are fantastic, I just can't afford them.

For what it would cost to put Baers, ATX spindles, etc, onto the Buick, I can buy another 1LE Camaro and go racing. But that's just me.

Lots of good info in this post, thanks to all.
 
Baer used to be the North American distributor for PBR, and our old SS, Sport and Track systems featured the same high pressure cast 2 piston that was found on the late 96 Grand Sport Corvette and the 94-95 Cobra. We still have some pieces lying around for people interested in piecing their own systems together.

As Scot mentioned these were phased out roughly a year ago or so as PBR has discontinued the sales of new units, though there are many rebuilders still selling parts, and there are many parts around for these as they were used for years.

The 2 piston PBR at one time was available on an 11" rotor to fit a 15" wheel but this is long gone. This used a 1LE style anchor that have been long discontinued. I can probably piece together parts for a 12" or 13" but they will not fit 15's.

Our new style calipers (SS4) are a real nice piece, and can be mounted on an 11" rotor to fit most 15" (check with a template to verify fitment). For guys looking to save a buck they can get them in a kit form where you have to modify your spindle to make them fit (common with all other kits such as Wilwood, Aerospace etc). These start at $995, and come with aluminum hubs, brackets, braided hoses, fittings etc. E-mail Scot directly if you are interested in this :)

There are many ways to go for front brakes, and all of the ones mentioned here are better than the stock set up! :)

HTH!
Can you give us a rough idea of the weight savings of the Baer system with the hubs vs the stock caliper?
 
Which system are you interested in? The SS4, or the older PBR systems? I am not sure if we have OE brakes here, so might not be able to get you that number, but I can get you weights of our products.
 
Here is a quick weight :)

This does not include our aluminum bracket, hardware or pads... but this gives you a good idea.
 

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That's got to be significantly less than stock.:)
 
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