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Can the Cam Sensor Be a Tooth Off??

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Heg87t

Slightly Compressed User
Joined
Mar 18, 2006
Messages
1,056
Hey,

I was thinking about my hesitation and bucking problem last night and starting debating with myself about the cam sensor. Couldn't sleep!:D

When you set the engine to 25 degrees ATDC then find the voltage change point it seems to me that it doesn't matter where the cam sensor is physically compared to the cam. :confused: Does it matter where the wires are pointing as long as you set it at the voltage change point?

Anyone have some thoughts / discussion on this.

By the way, should the dimple on the sensor gear line up with the tab on the rotor?
 
Doesn't matter. As long as the signal occurs at the right time.

They say tweaking the sensor a little further can help with tip in stumbles and drive-ability.

If you think the cam sensor may have a intermittent problem, unplug it with the motor running and go for a ride. See that helps the condition.
 
Doesn't matter. As long as the signal occurs at the right time.

They say tweaking the sensor a little further can help with tip in stumbles and drive-ability.

If you think the cam sensor may have a intermittent problem, unplug it with the motor running and go for a ride. See that helps the condition.

Thanks Rick. That's what I thought also at about 1:00 this morning. :)

Something just seems off with the car. Just flat and rough running. I will try unplugging the sensor to see if it changes.
 
Thanks Rick. That's what I thought also at about 1:00 this morning. :)

Something just seems off with the car. Just flat and rough running. I will try unplugging the sensor to see if it changes.

please post your results i am interested
 
please post your results i am interested

Ok. I just installed the Powerlogger software on my laptop so I hope to get some data and try to figure this out.

I have never replaced the coil, module, MAF, or either the cam or crank sensor on this car so one may have a problem. I just hate throwing parts at a problem without understanding why. :rolleyes:
 
i had the same problem it turn out to be a lose ground on the back of the passanger side head check it out . i thought the same thing about my car i thought i was going to have to pull every thing off agian:( but like i said it turned out to be that ground. good luck let us know what it turned out to be.When you put the cam in you lined up dot to dot right??wires should face drivers side i think
 
the dimple is 180 from the window of the cam sensor
 
The dimple should face pass side and the window where the wires on the cap are on the sensor should face toward drivers side.
 
Good

the dimple is 180 from the window of the cam sensor

Thanks. The reason I asked was because I took the gear off of two sensors I had to use the best parts for one. When I put it back together I wasn't sure which was was correct.

When I installed the sensor last night I put the dimple towards the passenger fender (12:00) and the window was pointing at the driver's headlight (umm... 7:43). :)

i had the same problem it turn out to be a lose ground on the back of the passanger side head check it out . i thought the same thing about my car i thought i was going to have to pull every thing off agian:( but like i said it turned out to be that ground. good luck let us know what it turned out to be.When you put the cam in you lined up dot to dot right??wires should face drivers side i think

Thanks. I will check that. I did check them last fall and they were tight. I don't have them on the head. Instead they are on the transmission bellhousing bolt. Think that would make a difference? Hmm... maybe the paint on the back of the block is interfering. On the other hand the bolt goes into the block and I did clean the threads during installation.
:confused:
 
shouldnt make a diffence where the ground is just as long as its nice and tight. when mine did the same thing i was amazed that all it was was a ground:)
 
+

flat and rough running can be a whole lot of things - why do you think is your cam sensor .?
 
I am not sure...

flat and rough running can be a whole lot of things - why do you think is your cam sensor .?

The cam sensor is the last thing I messed with. :eek: :confused:

I pulled the sensor to prime the oil system after the car sat since fall.
Put it back in lined up with the paint pen marks i put on the rotor and base. Wouldn't start. Figured out I had swapped the black and grey wires in the connector. :redface:
Fixed that and set the sensor with a volt meter. Car started but was running badly. It would backfire through the intake when I tried to rev it. I then pulled the cam sensor back off, verified 25 degrees ATDC and moved it a tooth. Car started and ran better. That's how I got to my original question.

I am open to any ideas now. :wink: Like I said a couple of posts ago, I need to get some Powerlogger data to review and analyze for diagnosis.
SOMETHING is not right. Car lays down and doesn't want to build boost like it would last year.
 
The dimple should face pass side and the window where the wires on the cap are on the sensor should face toward drivers side.

The radial orientation of the cam sensor cap makes NO difference where it is pointed. :)

What is critical is the window on the rotor and the tab on the base be 180 deg. apart when the engine is at 25 deg. after TDC.

When installing the cam sensor with the wires [window] pointing to the front of the car gives the best access around hoses and stuff so the screws on the cap can be tightened.
 
Thanks Nick. Good explanation.

Looking at my first two Powerlogger files I think I have a MAF problem. Max TPS and only 90 some GPS = not enough fuel! :eek:

Also found a lot of oil in the throttle body last nite. Guess I need a catch can.:mad:
 
After being parked awhile, it will be positive to clean up and check the complete ignition package.
Adding ground straps will help since many of the factory provided straps are misplaced over time and ignition up-grades need added grounding.
good luck
 
i am gonna throw this out there.... I just had a similar issue with mine but when i removed my cam sensor it let up tension on the cam because the stock timing chain was bad when i removed the sensor it lost the timing due to the bad chain. it makes no sense but i tore it down and found a gear with no teath (timinggear) now had i left the cam sensor alone the car would still run just fine.

on a side note double check the spark plug wires to make sure there not mixed up. i hope i can help
 
Thanks Guys. I checked the grounds on the back of the engine last night. All four are tight. I do have the ground from the engine to the firewall also. Plug wires are correct.

I am going to check the cam sensor one more time just to be sure it is set correctly at 25 ATDC.

I am thinking new MAF. Here is the PL file that I took when I rolled into the throttle on Friday. Looks to me like the MAF is too low and not sending any fuel.
 

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i am gonna throw this out there.... I just had a similar issue with mine but when i removed my cam sensor it let up tension on the cam because the stock timing chain was bad when i removed the sensor it lost the timing due to the bad chain. it makes no sense but i tore it down and found a gear with no teath (timinggear) now had i left the cam sensor alone the car would still run just fine. ....................


I have read your post few times and am really confused? :confused:

The cam sensor would not relieve tension on the cam or chain as it is just along for the ride. The cam gear being bad will throw off cam timing, as well as computer timing for the sequential fuel injection process.

Had the chain moved around on the cam gear while driving, it would have damaged your valves.
 
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