Car stutters while cruising

Originally posted by kuku
You are correct. Go and buy a gallon of Xylene and add to your tank when you have about three gallons of gas left. Best thing out there for cleaning the fuel system and injectors. Did not believe it until I tried it myself.

That's a lot higher concentratinon than people who use xylene regularly for an octane booster use, isn't it?
 
If unsure about the TCC solenoid unplug it , and test drive it. It may also be the egr coming in to fast from the valve return sping getting weak from the heat. It'll be good to hear what is the cause.
 
TCC solenoid

Hmm, that's what I was thinking too. Maybe it's going bad on our cars. Is this on the transmission? If so I'll try that too..

Thanks,

James
 
Re: TCC

Originally posted by chevyII
unplug the square 4 wire on the side of the trans.
Unplugged mine(drivers side)and the car runs awesome,,will do more testing if I drive it to work tonight....

So how do I fix the problem....does the trans have to come out of the car??
And any harm leaving it unplugged
Thanks again:D :D
 
The electrical plug only locks and unlocks the converter clutch. I'm not a trans expert but it maybe the clutch is slipping? check the fluid for material.
 
Now What?

If unplugging it "fixes" the problem, what does that lead us to believe?
Just that the chip is locking up the converter TOO early and the clutch is engaging and disengaging since we're hovering around the magic lock-up point of the chip???

Hmm....

Mine does the same thing.

I was hoping it was something "normal" and more folks have it as well...Whew! What a relief!
 
So if the solenoid is bad (ie unpluggint the 4 prong TCC fixes things) what does that mean as far as a fix? Just a new solenoid/plug? How much do they run?
 
fix

It's not quite that easy the solenoid could be bad, the coverter clutch could also be bad. This should go to the trans section Im sure somone could tell you another way to narrow it down.
 
Re: fix

Originally posted by chevyII
It's not quite that easy the solenoid could be bad, the coverter clutch could also be bad. This should go to the trans section Im sure somone could tell you another way to narrow it down.

well, if it helps to narrow it down, my tranny is a brand new, heavy duty rebuild, so nothing will be slipping or going bad that's a mechanical part inside the case.
 
On a TR I had several years ago, it did the same thing. Took it to a TR mechanic. He said it was were the TCC was locking and unlocking, he reprogrammed my chip to a TCC lockup higher speed and that moved it out of cuising range. Still felt it when I drove the car again but at a different MPH. Took his word that was it.

Curious to see if it could have been anything else?

Wonder if this happens on a stock chip?
 
That is what I thought!

That is what I thought:
To move the lock-up to a point less "in the cruise range".

Something to think about in my next chip.

Other than that "hunting" between lock-up and non-lock-up, my tranny and converter work fabulous.
No reason to doubt them as a whole.
 
lock up operation

the TCC solenoid,clutch and the imput all work independent of the rest of the trans. It should be able to lock at 50-52 mph and not have problems. if the clucth is pulsating or slipping the clutch will come apart and flow through the trans and ruin it.
Like I said before you want to talk to a trans expert/maybe in the trans section somone could help
 
Mine is still unplugged and still runs great,,,If I was to put the shifter in D it still would do that pulsating,should that be the caes in D ,I thought only in OD..but none the less mine is still unplugged,cause it would do that pulsating at about 45mph in D and OD....
 
I've been having a similar problem, but when I hit my lockup switch it doesn't do it. Does that mean it's a chip problem then?

James
 
TCC Solenoid

Mine "stutters" only after reaching TCC lockup (50-55 mph) and then letting off throttle in OD. If I wait until it coasts down below TCC lockup and depress brake pedal just enough to activate TCC switch on brake pedal (causing TCC to disengage) the stutter is not there. When slowing down from 55+ (when TCC is locked) the stutter stays until I hit the brakes. Changed solenoid to no avail. This stutter everyone is talking about feels like hitting small bumps in the road. Hope somebody figures this out. Driving me bonkers.:)
 
Resurrecting this thread

I have exactly the symptoms described in this thread. Also, there are several other threads describing the same thing but all of them including this one abruptly end without finding the problem.

This surging thing is mainly an annoyance and for me, it only happens after going into boost and then slowing to a 50-55mph cruise at very light throttle. It won't happen under light driving conditions. IMO, I don't think it is the TCC locking and unlocking the converter as the stuttering is so slight and isn't even enough to change RPMs as occurs when the converter locks/unlocks. Has anyone had the same thing and found the source of the problem? I'm leaning more toward my stock style MAF slowly taking a dump on me or possible chip calibration. However, on my Scanmaster, it shows ~5 at idle and it will max out at 255 under WOT with no codes either. Will these MAFs slowly deteriorate and "appear" to be working (i.e.--proper Scanmaster #'s, etc.)

I'm sure it's not my fuel pump, EGR, 02 sensor, injectors, and my BLM's are around 138 at idle. All of the obvious things check out. Still not sure about the TCC solenoid though but as I stated before, this only happens to me after going into boost. Looking for some more input.
 
How many miles on your motor? Mine was doing that, only bucking. It would run fine if you nailed it. Turned out it was the timing gears teeth were partially gone, causing erratic timing. Just a suggestion.
 
An easy way to check it would be to accelerate when the tcc clutch is engaged,if the more you hit the gas without kicking it out of lockup the shutter gets worse then the converter clutch is bad.If it only does it when you are lightly on the gas the tcc solenoid may be going,Usually when the solenoid go,s bad it will stick in lockup and when you go to take off from a start it will fell like the car has no power.like you are towing a trailer or something.It sounds like it is locking up to early.My car lockups up at 45 mph which is kind of to soon for my car.If it locks up to early it will also feel like the car has no power untill you get up to a higher speed where it is more sutiable rpm for lockup.it can also cause it to buck because the car needs some stall speed to get it going at that speed,and it cant stall when the converter is locked up.I think some chip tunners can change when it locksup if you ask them to.I hope this helps you some.Also forgot to mention if your brake switch has a bad conection or is maybee going bad it might cause you a problem.It cancels lockup when you apply the brake pedal.
 
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