You can type here any text you want

Complete DSE Suspension Build

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

Okay here are some numbers:

Weights with Old Stock suspension:

FL = 997 / FR = 956 = (41 lbs difference side to side)

LR = 695 / RR = 741 = (46 lbs difference side to side)

Weights after the DSE suspension:

FL = 976 / FR = 979 = (3 lb difference side to side)

LR = 728 / RR = 728 = (NO difference side to side)

Nice numbers! It's good to see more justification to install suspension pieces that eliminate bind. Just out of curiosity, were both sets of weights taken with the swaybars connected?
 
Nice numbers! It's good to see more justification to install suspension pieces that eliminate bind. Just out of curiosity, were both sets of weights taken with the swaybars connected?
Yes! both were taken with sway bars in place . ;)
 
Scot, any more info on the steering box and shaft??

Just wondering. I have a Jeep shaft here and am sort of having second thoughts about it. Had a conversation with someone today and Im rethinking my standpoint on mods to my car.

Thanks!!

Scott

BTW, I'm really lusting over those DSE parts you guys carry! If only I had about $3K lying around!
 
Scot, any more info on the steering box and shaft??

Just wondering. I have a Jeep shaft here and am sort of having second thoughts about it. Had a conversation with someone today and Im rethinking my standpoint on mods to my car.

Thanks!!

Scott

BTW, I'm really lusting over those DSE parts you guys carry! If only I had about $3K lying around!
The steering boxes are ready, were just waiting on the hose kit and the steering shaft to get done then it will be nice easy install. I will let everyone know when they are out....


Scot W.
 
Now that it handles much better I needed something to hold me in place a bit more. Like many other people I didn't want to cut up the car by adding a cage just after doing the interior. So after seeing this harness that several of the guy's had competing at the pro-touring events. I decided to give them a try and I must say they work great!

Here is one of only a few options for you guy's who don't want to install a cage in your car but still want a DOT approved 4-point harness..

Landons 11th Bday 056.jpg


I just installed these in my car and MAN what a difference it makes holding you in the seat!!

These are very easy to install. They literally mount right to your existing mounting points with the same original bolts. The only seat you have to remove is the rear seat cushion, and slide the fronts forward to install the front mounts.


Landons 11th Bday 058.jpg

Landons 11th Bday 057.jpg


The Schroth harness is the de facto standard for anyone looking for a simple, clean, DOT-approved and Safe 4 point harness. The technology built into the harness puts it in a category above the belts made by other manufacturers. The years of testing and motor sport experience only give credit to what the engineers have been saying all along.

There are two main reasons why the Schroth Belts are the only safe 4 point harnesses: ASM technology and the ability to install the belts to stock harness mounting locations.

ASM stands for Anti-Sub-Marining. It's an extra flap of material sewn into the inboard shoulder belt that prevents you from sliding underneath the lap belt. In a 4 point harness made by some other company, the two shoulder straps restrain your upper body equally. They keep your chest from moving forward. However, this also pulls up on the lap belt and allows your accelerating pelvis to slide under the lap belt and cause serious damage to your stomach and intestines. With ASM, one of the shoulder belts will elongate at a different rate which will force your pelvis down into the seat cushion. Upon rebound, you will be placed back in an upright position with the belt correctly placed over your body.

The advantages of being able to mount an aftermarket 4 point harness to stock mounting locations are many. First and foremost is the knowledge that these points have been load tested. This means that the manufacturer of your vehicle engineered the points to be able to withstand some truly amazing forces for a specified length of time. In plain English this means that the bolts won't pull out of the sheet metal.

It also means (in the case of a Schroth Harness) that you can retain the use of your stock 3-point harness, allowing you the use of the backseat of your car. If you have the need to transport passengers (or cargo) in your backseat, it is possible to disconnect the tail-strap (a feature only Schroth has) and use your normal 3 point harness.

These belts are perfect for Driver's Schools, Auto-crosses, canyon runs, and road courses with your local car club. They offer a comfortable and stylish harness that will hold you in your seat during spirited driving, as well as a restraint that will perform ahead of the competition in an impact. This belt will work perfectly for someone driving a vehicle that is on the vehicle reference list, as it is critical to test the seat back strength in order to make sure the seat can withstand the forces exerted upon it.

Available in Black, Blue, Red & Silver.


Scot W.
 
Last edited:
Now that it handles much better I needed something to hold me in place a bit more. Like many other people I didn't want to cut up the car by adding a cage just after doing the interior. So after seeing this harness that several of the guy's had competing at the pro-touring events. I decided to give them a try and I must say they work great!

Here is one of only a few options for you guy's who don't want to install a cage in your car but still want a DOT approved 4-point harness..

I just installed these in my car and MAN what a difference it makes holding you in the seat!!

Scot W.

Great something else for the list of things I want to buy for the car. :p

Which model belts are those?

Does the lap belt anchor just get added on top of the stock seat belt bolt?
How does the rear disconnect for removal? Still need to put the kids back there once and a while. :cool:
 
Great something else for the list of things I want to buy for the car. :p

Which model belts are those?

Does the lap belt anchor just get added on top of the stock seat belt bolt?
How does the rear disconnect for removal? Still need to put the kids back there once and a while. :cool:
Model: Ralley-4

And if you look in the picture where it shows the rear seat you will notice a small quick connect near the head rest, just press the button just like on regular belts and people can sit in the back.


Scot W.
 
Time for "brakes"!!

Let me start of by mentioning that after receiving these BAER brake products, they are top notch and top quality! Everything comes with this kit to complete the install and that makes things VERY EASY when installing these! The Rotors & Calipers seemed to impress everyone who came through our doors and people were amazed at the quality of the parts..

After some review we decided to go with the 4-piston calipers vs the 6-piston, reason for this was cost vs actual difference. Performance wise there really isn't much difference between the 4 & 6 piston calipers (per Rick E.). Since we have 18" wheels on this car we obviously wanted to go as large as possible yet still keep within budget. We decided on the BAER Track4 for the front which has 13" rotors & 4-piston calipers mounted on OEM spindles. This whole set up comes Pre-installed on the OEM spindles right from BAER. Makes for one hell of an easy installation.

There is a bunch of room left behind the CCW 18" wheel that I even believe the Track4 system will work with most 17" wheels but should always be checked with the BAER template to be sure. (In PDF file located at the bottom of post)

For the rears we decided on BAER's NEW SS4 system which has 12" rotors & 4-piston calipers with the emergency brake!

Today we got some time to start the front brakes and in just 2 hrs the front brakes were done!!! :eek: ;) Yes just 2 hrs....

Old Caliper & Rotor set up taken out:There are many ways/methods to doing this but this is what worked for us and was safe for us.

View our BAER Brake install here-----> http://turbobuick.com/threads/baer-brake-install.343546/


Scot W.
 

Attachments

Last edited:
LOL You work to hard on putting parts on Scott. I need to give you a call and teach you a few this on how to tear a front end apart.

Looks like a good set up and I hope it works well for you.
 
LOL You work to hard on putting parts on Scott. I need to give you a call and teach you a few this on how to tear a front end apart.

Looks like a good set up and I hope it works well for you.
Too Hard? You call doing this front brake upgrade in 2 hrs Hard? :biggrin:

Scot W.
 
Back
Top