I have installed the actual gauge in the car and have the white tube running to the motor bay. I would like to route it to the top of the turbo oil feed line as opposed to down to the motor to keep in away from all the heat. I was wondering if some of you guys had some shots of your set up for ideas. I'm not trying to buy 600 eaton fitting and braided line just yet, just maybe a fitting or two to connect. Thanks.
Connecting my Oil Pressure Gauge
- Thread starter WhiskeyGN
- Start date
turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2001
Ditch the plastic hose and get the small braided line instead. That line ever breaks and its a total mess...been there done that.
Copper line kinks and is a pain imo as well
Copper line kinks and is a pain imo as well
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Use a copper tube out of the top of the turbo if you use that point.
You can couple it in with a 1/8" compression coupler a few feet back say at the rear of the plenum where it's much cooler or run the copper all the way into the car to the gauge.
Tie it off every few feet so it doesn't flex anywhere and it will last a lot longer than the plastic nylon line.
You'll get about 3 years out of that nylon if mounted at the turbo housing, all you have to do it touch it and it will snap in half due to the heat.
Here's a pic. of one of mine, copper tube is below the feed tube but you can still see it. 1/8" brass T, 1/8" close nipple, stock fitting, and the compression adapter is all you need.
Sometimes you can find the T fitting with one end a male 1/8" NPT on it and that would eliminate the 1/8" close nipple fitting.
You can couple it in with a 1/8" compression coupler a few feet back say at the rear of the plenum where it's much cooler or run the copper all the way into the car to the gauge.
Tie it off every few feet so it doesn't flex anywhere and it will last a lot longer than the plastic nylon line.
You'll get about 3 years out of that nylon if mounted at the turbo housing, all you have to do it touch it and it will snap in half due to the heat.
Here's a pic. of one of mine, copper tube is below the feed tube but you can still see it. 1/8" brass T, 1/8" close nipple, stock fitting, and the compression adapter is all you need.
Sometimes you can find the T fitting with one end a male 1/8" NPT on it and that would eliminate the 1/8" close nipple fitting.
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
It doesn't bend that sharply since it's kind of soft.
You could use a small tubing bender to get a 2-3" radius bend on it but I've never had a problem using just my hands to get it to go where I want.
When you cut it with say a small tubing cutter if you have to, make sure you use the pointy end on the tubing cutter to open up the hole, or a small round file, it tends to close up when cut.
If you're running a BB turbo you might not want to read oil pressure there as it goes up due to the restriction in the BB cartridge.
I found that out when put on the purple DBB Innovative one shown in the pic.
20 psi. hot idle ain't right at 200K miles.
You could use a small tubing bender to get a 2-3" radius bend on it but I've never had a problem using just my hands to get it to go where I want.
When you cut it with say a small tubing cutter if you have to, make sure you use the pointy end on the tubing cutter to open up the hole, or a small round file, it tends to close up when cut.
If you're running a BB turbo you might not want to read oil pressure there as it goes up due to the restriction in the BB cartridge.
I found that out when put on the purple DBB Innovative one shown in the pic.
20 psi. hot idle ain't right at 200K miles.
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