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Cost of building a 9 sec car: V6TR vs other

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Sep 30, 2005
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I'm sure this has been discussed before. Curious on opinions on cost to take a bolt on 12 sec car and build it to run mid 9s (with safety gear) Turbo 6 Buick vs other configurations. Other configurations such as turbo LS anything, nitrous LS anything, nitrous big block, blown small block, turbo 4 banger,etc. Let's negate the purchase cost of the vehicle, assume you already own the car. What are your thoughts?
 
old joke...........
how to make a small fortune?

start with large fortune, and build a race car!
 
$20000-30000. That's doing the minimum and having the chassis certified and cost of safety equipment associated with it. Starting with a certed chassis and building a nitrous engine would shave off some
 
No doubt that building a fast car is expensive, but thanks for the confirmation. Looking for a bit more constructive input then that.

Thanks to Bison for his.
 
There is a reason there seem to be so many LS powered fox bodies. Light, cheap easy, readily available materials. Ls in GM trucks litter the wrecking yards. Fox body already caged and a suspension under it. Mate em up and you are in the nines. At least you are with some type power added.

G body is just heavier and therefore requires more power. This leads to more $$$.

Style? Gn/T or any Gbody with turbo v6 or an abnormally large BBC.
Cheap n Fast? Fox n LSX
 
JI have $60k into my stage two car and will never do it again. It's a pain in the a$$. Aftermarket parts never seem to work right and cost is obnoxious. It's been five years of building and I still can't drive the car because I can't get the XFI tuned right. Everytime u look at the car, its two grand then when you get the two grand in parts, you have to sell them for $1000 cause they didn't work with your set up. Then u spend another $3k to get it right but it still needs to be modified to work costing another $500. Etc etc etc.


Keep it simple and enjoy the car otherwise you'll grow to hate it and it'll just sit in the garage like mine do.
 
jdpolzin said:
JI have $60k into my stage two car and will never do it again. It's a pain in the a$$. Aftermarket parts never seem to work right and cost is obnoxious. It's been five years of building and I still can't drive the car because I can't get the XFI tuned right. Everytime u look at the car, its two grand then when you get the two grand in parts, you have to sell them for $1000 cause they didn't work with your set up. Then u spend another $3k to get it right but it still needs to be modified to work costing another $500. Etc etc etc.

Keep it simple and enjoy the car otherwise you'll grow to hate it and it'll just sit in the garage like mine do.

However, when they DO come together and work correctly it's hard to find a way to produce a larger smile, IMO...
 
Im headed for over 25k by time I'm done. I'm in the middle of a big HP stroker right now.
Rough example...
249 stroker long block...$9500 ( Best of everything)
67HPQ turbo...$1500
Intercooler...$1000
PTC convertor...$950
Billet tranny...$2500-3000
Good rear end...$2000-2500
FAST XFI...$2000
and then about another $7500-8500 in Misc.

These are actual prices, not ball parks.
Also...I started with a 14k mile GN, so the car didnt need much work, but cost me $15K
 
$20000-30000. That's doing the minimum and having the chassis certified and cost of safety equipment associated with it.

LOL!! Ain't that the truth!! I wish my buddy Mikey would read this post. I'm always telling him how expensive TRs are considering the limited gains in hp per $$$. Buicks suck...o_O. They get lots of attention @ a carshow though...
 
There are probably 20 different ways to get to mid 9's and no matter what your budget is, it will cost more than you plan. I think $20K probably won't get you to mid 9's. 30K maybe if you follow the advice of those who have been there with a proven combo. I'm at $40K in a low 9 second bulletproof stage car and I do 99% of my own work. I could have done it cheaper if I hadn't tried to be cheap in the begining.

You have a lot of paths you can follow on the V6.
1. You can get there by buying cheap parts that are marginally good to mid 9's. You'll have a car that either has issues everytime you play with it or you will be too afraid to take it out at the risk of breaking it. For the most part, you'll spend more money in labor making the cheap parts work that you would to just buy the good parts the first time.
2. You can try to nickle and dime it by chasing good parts either used or at a discount. This takes twice as long and in the end you'll spend more because half the used parts you buy will be bad before you even see them. This is very frustrating and I tried to do this for a long time, until I learned my lesson.
3. The best way to do it is buy the best quality parts you can find. You'll buy parts once and you will have confidence in them. Your budget will dictate how fast you can go, but in the end you'll save money. That's hard to learn any other way on your own, but it's true. The other plus to buying good parts, is that when it's all together, you'll have no issue paying top dollar to have someone tune it. This is the single most important part and can make or break how you enjoy the car.

You can go the LS route, but in the end you'll have a mid 9 second car with a junk yard motor that has very little resale value. Everybody thinks you can put an LS in your car and run 9's and do it all for little money. So even after you've spent twice as much as you though putting the LS in, you won't be able to sell it because the potential buyers think it can be built cheaper. For all the guys you hear of having sucess with a junkyard 5.3 going 8's there are twice as many that broke something running 10's. If your building a complete car, the motor is only half the cost, so you really won't save much in the big picture. Not that it matters for a mid 9 second build, but over 1000hp, the LS and the V6 cost the same.
 
Not exactly a car but I can relate this to one of my personal projects from years ago. I wanted a full custom rifle that would do 1 MOA or better at ranges starting at 500 meters. I spent several years figuring out how I wanted to do it as well as pricing things out. I've got $10K in it and I know I can't sell it for that, but I'm still not happy with it. One of these days I'll rebarrel it and put a different stock on it but the best I've gotten out of it so far is 3 MOA at 500 meters and that's gonna get me around 7 to 10 MOA at 1000 meters. I'll most likely send it to Shillen for a lot of specialized work and that will sink at least another $2K or more in it.:( The scope will be changed out for one I've been drooling over for a while and that will be another $2K for it.:eek: If you want to play you've got to pay and if you want something that's really high performance then you can't skimp on it.;)
 
Everytime u look at the car, its two grand then when you get the two grand in parts, you have to sell them for $1000 cause they didn't work with your set up.

Please let me no when you buy more parts for your car especially a built transmisiion:)

I am no sheepeole, I build v6 because no one else does. When I cross the line first it makes everything worth it.

22k here
 
Please let me no when you buy more parts for your car especially a built transmisiion:)

I am no sheepeole, I build v6 because no one else does. When I cross the line first it makes everything worth it.

22k here

Trans is done. Billet front to rear, after all the him hawing around, I now have $6k into that! WTF! It never ends.
 
3200lbs + 600hp = 9.90 E.T.'s

3200lbs 1/4 mile set-up (Buick GN) rolling chassis = $20,000+

600hp Motor/Trans/Rear End = $16,000 +

an last a Professional Driver = Priceless!!!...LOL

(i've just reached the $100,000 mark)
 
3200lbs + 600hp = 9.90 E.T.'s

3200lbs 1/4 mile set-up (Buick GN) rolling chassis = $20,000+

600hp Motor/Trans/Rear End = $16,000 +

an last a Professional Driver = Priceless!!!...LOL

(i've just reached the $100,000 mark)


You've got $100k in your GN?
 
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