Crank bolt removal

I searched for advice on this prior to posting but I can't find where anyone advises how to remove the big crank pulley bolt with a wrench/socket. When I put any torque on the socket, the entire rotating assembly turns. Unfortunately, my air compressor and impact wrench didn't get the job done this time. Is there a way to keep the crank from turning while attempting to loosen the big bolt by hand? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
If you have a long 1/2" breaker bar and the socket, place the breaker bar agains the frame rail and hit the key real quick. The torque from the starter will break it loose a lot of times. Just make sure you don't keep it under the hood to smack anything. Under the car by the frame braces works good.
 
Thanks for all of the replies. I had to get creative with a screwdriver and the flywheel since I was by myself. I finally managed to get it loose. Thanks again.
 
The best and easiest way i've found to do this is by clamping a pair of visegrip pliers onto the flexplate and let it wedge itself up against the engine block,then you can have both hands to work with and you don't need to find a helper to assist you either.;)


John :smile:
 
The best and easiest way i've found to do this is by clamping a pair of visegrip pliers onto the flexplate and let it wedge itself up against the engine block,then you can have both hands to work with and you don't need to find a helper to assist you either.

That is genius! I truly wish I thought of that.
 
Another thing you can do is pull a plug, get the cylinder on the compression stroke, and stuff some rope in the hole so when the cylinder comes up it hits the rope and can't roll over. Just make sure you don't have an open valve.

Edit: Using an impact tool on the crank doesn't seem like a real good idea.
 
How small of a blob and what kind of charge to ignite it works best? And should this be done indoors or outside to avoid the percussion of an indoor blast? Do you have to call the fire dept first in case there is a fire or just keep an extinguisher handy along with a garden hose with a nozzle type sprayer on hand?

Small blob of C4 works to get the bolt off.

A.j.
 
How small of a blob and what kind of charge to ignite it works best? And should this be done indoors or outside to avoid the percussion of an indoor blast? Do you have to call the fire dept first in case there is a fire or just keep an extinguisher handy along with a garden hose with a nozzle type sprayer on hand?

LOL........ I decided that this was probably tooo good of an idea to use..

I decided to just drink it off instead. eventually I'll be drunk enough to not notice its there and I'll feel all better!

:biggrin: A.j.
 
If you have a long 1/2" breaker bar and the socket, place the breaker bar agains the frame rail and hit the key real quick. The torque from the starter will break it loose a lot of times. Just make sure you don't keep it under the hood to smack anything. Under the car by the frame braces works good.


that what id did and it worked well. just tap the key and it should loosen up.
 
put a wrench through one of the flex plate holes

there are some holes in the flex plate. I used a medium sized wrench through the hole and braced the wrench heads up against the trany case. I also turned the flexplate by hand to get it close and secure before using the breaker bar on the crank nut.
didnt think of the vise grips, thats a good one too.
Andrew
 
Any idea where to get a replacement crank pulley? Since I'm swapping to all FWD accessories, I'll need to get a new FWD crank pulley for my 252...

I've called every single parts store in town, they just kinda go "Uhhhhhhhhh......" lol

Haven't had any luck searching junkyards, either. They all want to sell me the complete engine.
 
Any idea where to get a replacement crank pulley? Since I'm swapping to all FWD accessories, I'll need to get a new FWD crank pulley for my 252...

I've called every single parts store in town, they just kinda go "Uhhhhhhhhh......" lol

Haven't had any luck searching junkyards, either. They all want to sell me the complete engine.

Post in the parts wanted section. They're nothing special, just the regular balancer that's on the N/A motor with a reluctor ring.
 
Okay... I have no idea what you just said, without Googling it. lol


reluctor ring? :confused:

The notched wheel that rotates through the crank sensor, creating a signal to the ECM to fire the plugs. (not the REAL way it works, but you get the idea. It is more complicated than that, but the reluctor ring, a.k.a interruptor ring is pressed onto the balancer hub. There should be a TON of them at any pull-apart off of a FWD 3.8. It'll take some doing to get it all balanced with a 252, though. The stock 4.1 (252) has a bigger counter weight cast into the balancer, than the 3.8 does.
 
Similar to using a vice grips, I used a C-clamp on the flywheel (on the driver's side) and it worked like a charm. Anything to clamp down on the flywheel and wedge against the block or transmission would work. Of course, be careful stay clear of the teeth on the flywheel, so you do not damage them in the process. This is why I used an old school screw-on C-clamp. I didn't have a C-clamp style vice grip, and my standard vice grip jaws risked damaging the flywheel teeth. Once your chosen C-clamp, vice grip, or screwdriver is properly wedged against the block or trans, give the crank bolt a nice slow pull with a breaker bar, and it should loosen right up. Once the nut was off, all I had to do was jiggle the balancer a little and it slid right off. The balancer and crank are keyed together with a keyway, so no worries about reinstalling the balancer in the same orientation.
 
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