Crank triggers

[HighPSI]

I am about to have a batch of crank triggers made for the Buick. The sensor will mount on a bracket that bolts in the stock location. I plan on having the trigger at 50 degrees. Is there any reason to have a factory 10 degree pickup? I am going to try and have the trigger wheel machined thin enough to allow the accesory pulleys to line up. Hoping to get the cost around $250. I welcome any suggestions and want to get a feel for how many to have made.

 

[RYAN GRAVES]

Talked to you yesterday about it. Count me in, this is just what I need.

 

[V6RACER]

I would be in for a couple.

 

[bison]

Ill take one. Have you machined any trigger wheels yet? Post pics even if they arent finish machined.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Sounds interesting Cal, could this run with the stock ecm. If so count me in.

 

[Otto J]

Sounds interesting Cal, could this run with the stock ecm. If so count me in.

I doubt it,the factory ECM uses a hall effect type sensor where this would be inductive.That would be the reason to leave it at 10* but the factory module i dont think will read an inductive signal.

I should be stocking a few of these once they are made also.

 

[turbobitt]

How exactly will this work ? Will this require a distributer ?
Allan G.

 

[DR BOOST]

count me in Cal

 

[WSLN 6]

Cal, what is the benefit of doing this over a stock setup?

 

[HighPSI]

This won't work with the factory CCCI setup. It is designed for those who want to run a distributor and either can't or don't want to use the factory sensor. I will post pics of the pick-up wheel when they are completed.

 

[XXQUICK6XX]

Interesred.

 

[baadgn]

This won't work with the factory CCCI setup. It is designed for those who want to run a distributor and either can't or don't want to use the factory sensor. I will post pics of the pick-up wheel when they are completed.

Cal

Are you modifing the diode for the Ams or will the same one work i tried calling you today about this. My car staying together but if I got to pull the diode out let know. I also talked to Carl and he said I should stick to the 50 degree sensor because the Ams would still need the lead time, call me tommorow

 

[turbobuick]

I would be interested but would need one in the stock location to work with a Gen 7.

 

[Chris Hogeland]

trigger

I will take one.

 

[XXQUICK6XX]

I need to be more awake when I type. I'll take one I have a BHJ balancer.

Steve

 

[gnxtc2]

What's the difference between have the factory 10* or at 50*?

What about us guys that already have BHJ dampers?

More details.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[turbobitt]

I'm interested in one.
Allan G.

 

[Otto J]

What's the difference between have the factory 10* or at 50*?

What about us guys that already have BHJ dampers?

More details.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

Running a crank reference at 50 and using the "IPU" setting is a better setup as it isextremely positive.
When using a 10* reference you now rely on the ecu to have to calculate actual timing,this is why you must leave the setting on Buick DIS.
Ity doesnt appear as though there is any problem doing it this way as many cars run just fine with this setup.
It will work with your balancer and should be thin enough to not require any realignment of your other pulleys

 

[Bent6]

Will this give more timing "accuracy" vs the stock type setup and reluctor wheel?

 

[HighPSI]

This won't really effect accuracy if we don't move the pickup point. If you move the trigger to 50 degrees from the stock 10 degrees and change the ignition strategy, your timing should be more accurate. Whether it's enough to make a diference is hard to say.

Let's say your running 30 degrees timing. The factory trigger occurs at 10 degrees BTDC it then has to wait 100 degrees to fire the coil. With a 50 degree trigger, there is only a 20 degree delay.

It doesn't matter what balancer you have since you won't be using the balancers trigger