Crank triggers

[gnxtc2]

This won't really effect accuracy if we don't move the pickup point. If you move the trigger to 50 degrees from the stock 10 degrees and change the ignition strategy, your timing should be more accurate. Whether it's enough to make a diference is hard to say.

Let's say your running 30 degrees timing. The factory trigger occurs at 10 degrees BTDC it then has to wait 100 degrees to fire the coil. With a 50 degree trigger, there is only a 20 degree delay.

It doesn't matter what balancer you have since you won't be using the balancers trigger

Where are you planning on putting the trigger wheel?

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[ttypewhite]

subscribed.

 

[BlownV6]

Cal , thats a great idea. Lots of folks looking for a crank trigger and they are not easy to come by. One thing to consider that I have found, is the bolt circle on the balancer. Seems that the various balancers I have run across dont seem to have the same bolt pattern on the front of the balancer from mfg. to mfg. Might want to check that out and try to make yours universal if possible!! Mike

 

[HighPSI]

Good information Mike. Thanks!
Billy, the trigger wheel will bolt between the balancer and the crank pulley.

 

[gnxtc2]

Good information Mike. Thanks!
Billy, the trigger wheel will bolt between the balancer and the crank pulley.

Any chance of knowing how thick the trigger wheel is going to be? I have the mandrel off the car and want to prep it for your new set up.

I don't know how you are going to be able to keep the pulley alignment correct if you are putting the trigger wheel between the crank pulley and balance? You will need a "shorter" crank pulley (hint: RJC). Guys running mandrels should not have any issues as we can make adjustments.

On the balancer issue, most of us are running a BHJ balance.

The trigger wheel should have a "female" locating ring on the back and a "male" locating ring on front like the balance has.

Hurry up and make this.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[odell4o8]

crank trigger

cal,
my msd wheel is 1/2 inch thick. and is same dia, as the bhj, balancer.
and it has 12 mounting holes for different balancers or bms hubs
its also has flying magnets or what ever msd called it,
i used a 1/2 inch piece of alum, bolted to head and spaced out my alt,
no big deal as i dont use a belt tensior, or ps,
good luck oc, [ps i could use a spare]

 

[HighPSI]

The trigger wheel will move the crank pulley out less than .080". After talking to several people, the belt should be able to "absorb" this diferance without having to adjust the accessory pulleys. I can't guarantee this for every application.

Odell: I haven't talked with you in a long time. Give me a call some day, so we can get caught up

 

[turbobitt]

Here is an "out of the box" suggestion, How about a two piece trigger wheel that can be mounted in front of the pulley flange instead of sandwitched between the pulley and damper. The wheel can be split to get around the OD of the pulley and eliminate any alignment issues. Some adjustability in the sensor (with spacers or something)could accomodate different pulley flange thicknesses.
Allan G.

 

[turbobitt]

Woops, just reliazed that most stock type pulleys have the bolts located in the ID making this impossible. Dissregard last post.
Allan G.

 

[bison]

The trigger wheel will move the crank pulley out less than .080". After talking to several people, the belt should be able to "absorb" this diferance without having to adjust the accessory pulleys. I can't guarantee this for every application.

Odell: I haven't talked with you in a long time. Give me a call some day, so we can get caught up

.080 could be removed from the pulley in most cases if needed. Ive done it before to correct alignment. The stock alignment isnt that good but because of the distance between the pulleys it doesnt matter.

 

[yullose]

I guess I'll chime in with my opinion since we discussed this a little in a thread I started a couple weeks ago...


I think ALOT of guys are afraid of making the switch to FAST/XFI/etc... and would prefer an option OTHER than doing that complete conversion.
It's uncharted territory and intimidating for a noob.

I think if there was a way to use a flying magnet crank trigger in conjunction with the MSD7AL series ignition box and a distributor, it would excite alot of people. Leave the fuel injector control to the factory ECM, but let the timing be handled manually with the crank trigger and MSD box.
I'd LOVE to be able to lock my timing down at a set number and KNOW it won't move. It's also way more accurate than using a pickup in the distributor for timing.

For this application (if it's even possible) it would be beneficial to have a fully adjustable sensor bracket like MSD uses, since some of us still actually own timing lights.
Not sure how it would affect the pricing, but it would also be cool to see timing marks engraved around the wheel too, for those still running a stock unmarked balancer.

 

[blackgn1]

+2. I haven't made the jump to FAST. I might someday who knows?:biggrin:

 

[HighPSI]

If the factory computer won't support an inductive pickup, I'm not sure what you are wanting. As far as a timing light, I try to make sure all my customers check their timing, even with the stock ignition. I have seen too much variance on the factory trigger wheel.
I suppose I could make the pickup location adjustable even though you should be able to adjust your crank referance angle in the computer to get the timing right.

 

[Shanespark]

The MSD Flying Magnet Crank Trigger system does exactly that by using four magnets embedded in an aluminum wheel. Although similar in appearance to other crank triggers, the MSD Flying Magnet design works on a different principle.

 

[HighPSI]

am gone a tell about the advantages of crank triggers because the pro series crank trigger provides a stronger pickup signal with more distinct high and low voltage levels for improved triggering of the 4000 in harsh environments.

Are you saying it has a stronger pickup signal than the stock hall effect signal? After looking at your other posts, are you familiar with the turbo Buicks?

 

[turbobuick]

Are you saying it has a stronger pickup signal than the stock hall effect signal? After looking at your other posts, are you familiar with the turbo Buicks?

I think he is a troll.

As far as inductive vs hall effect I believe inductive is more accurate but more prone to noise interference. IMO if running an alternator and the sensor in the stock location I would supply some type of shielded wiring for the sensor??

How about making the pickup adjustable? If you make it 50* I don't believe they will work with the Gen 7.

 

[HighPSI]

Thanks for the input, Chris. I was planning on including a shielded wire that plugged into the sensor and was long enough to run to the computer. I am going to look into having two bolt patterns on the trigger wheel for both ignition strategies. If this won't work, I will make the pickup adjustable.
Please keep the suggestions coming. I plan to have everything finalized in the next week.

 

[V6RACER]

After looking at your other posts, are you familiar with the turbo Buicks?

Oh snap! lol :biggrin:

 

[gnxtc2]

Something to keep in the back of your mind. I took these measurements off my balancer while changing the mandrel.

The BHJ balancer has an outer step approximately 0.085". The inner locating ring height is approximately 0.125".

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[HighPSI]

Thanks Bill. That step may limit how thin I can make the trigger wheel.