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Danny Bee cam thrust plate drill jig

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Mike E

Mr. Badwrench
Joined
Oct 9, 2006
Messages
1,476
I've been contemplating the best way to put the holes in my block for the Danny Bee bronze cam thrust plate. I couldn't get enough space in my mill to fit the block in it, so I needed another way. I had remembered seeing one of these jigs on KendallF's website where he had taken pics of a jig that Duttweiler used. So, I made one.

I'll only be needing it once on my block, but after that I may be willing to rent it out to any of the DIY'ers here. But you might be required to pass a machining test first. :) I don't want to be responsible for someone screwing up a stage block.

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Put me in line. I'm at that point now. Thanks, Phil.
 
What is the advantage of the danny bee set up over the precision thrust bearing setup?
 
norbs said:
What is the advantage of the danny bee set up over the precision thrust bearing setup?

I'm using it with the timing belt set-up. Comes with the kit.
 
What is the advantage of the danny bee set up over the precision thrust bearing setup?

One advantage is that is more accurate and positive method to retain the cam, and less parts to fail or come loose.

Also, since it floats in the retainer with a bath of oil, no chance of it wearing the face of the block.

When installing a billet cam is a 109 or any Buick block, this is the way we do it.

In can also be done with the engine in the car with hand tools if necessary, as there are only 3 holes to drill and tap.

The cam must be machined to use this method, and most cam manufacturers, like Comp, will do this for you.
 
One advantage is that is more accurate and positive method to retain the cam, and less parts to fail or come loose.

Also, since it floats in the retainer with a bath of oil, no chance of it wearing the face of the block.

When installing a billet cam is a 109 or any Buick block, this is the way we do it.

In can also be done with the engine in the car with hand tools if necessary, as there are only 3 holes to drill and tap.

The cam must be machined to use this method, and most cam manufacturers, like Comp, will do this for you.


So the torrington bearing is no longer needed on the billit setup? I have a billit roller from comp. could this be sent back for machining.Its brand new . Will the tool above work for a 109 block?Where can I get a retaining plate? Do you sell them? Sorry for all the questions. I like the idea of the cam be retained in the block
 
No bearing is used.

The cam could be machined by Comp, or a good person with a lathe.

I can supply you with the retainer set up.

If the block is not in the car, it can easily be done by using the retainer to drill and tap 3 holes, not sure if the above tool works on a 109 block?
 
If the block is not in the car, it can easily be done by using the retainer to drill and tap 3 holes, not sure if the above tool works on a 109 block?


It could be used on a 109 block as long as they use the same size cam journal. I could always turn another locating bushing for another diameter bearing or journal. The steps are cut for an on center block, but it shouldn't affect how it works on an off center.
 
Put me in line. I'm at that point now. Thanks, Phil.
I haven't used it to drill and tap a block yet, so I would like to do that before I send it out. I just want to be sure it works withot issue.
 
Could we get some pics of a modified cam and Danny Bee set up? Just curious how a bronze washer has more wear resistance than a roller bearing? I;ve never seen one up close though.
 
OK I see, how is the end play adjusted, do you still use the cam bolt with the bearing on the end? So that bronze surface rides against the back of the timing chain?
 
Endplay is set with the cam machining. Not thrust bolt is needed at the end of the cam, just a standard bolt to clamp the parts to the end of the cam. This was originally for the belt drive, that has no timing cover to load against.
 
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