Finished the install yesterday.
Lights operate just like the youtube video I posted and they look much much nicer with the trim on and mounted. Working on getting another video up. Here's a rundown of my install with the way I did it using the directions as more of a guideline.
All of my install is done to be completely reversible with no factory wires being cut at all.
I removed the lenses and trim and drilled the holes for the LED boards. Before I put the screws in to mount the boards I used a little bit of a flexible adhesive/sealant over the holes and then pushed the screws in for the boards. You can buy this at any auto parts store. The name of mine was Pit Crews Choice. I did this as opposed to rubber washers as it allows for a better seal against moisture.
While the sealant was setting up I ran the Orange power wire that came with the kit to the trunk light power wire. You need to get into the trunk and in the innermost lefthand corner you will see two wires coming into the trunk with factory loom and electrical tape on them. The wires are held to the inside of the trunk by plastic clips that push into holes to help route them. They are mouned one on top of the other and the trunk light power wire is inside the top one. Just peel back some of the factory tape to expose the Orange wire in there. I spliced into that with a quick clip connector and covered it with electrical tape to match and pushed the retainer clip back into the hole to retain the factory look. Now you can route your orange wire along the inside of the rear quater panel. There is a factory blue wire there. You can follow that.
I removed the license plate bracket to expose the nuts that hold the plastic part around the filler neck to the car. You will notice that it is impossible to remove this without chancing damage to your bumper fillers because the screws are welded to the car and you can't pull out enough to clear them. You need to just pull the top portion out far enough so the screws will come out of the holes and let it sit there for later. You will see the factory wire loom in there.
I then took the wires from the kit and opened them both up. You will notice there is four of each set. 4-orange and black and 4-brown, green, yellow. I paired them up and placed each pair next to the factory bulb sockets to get an idea of where they go. I lined the wires up from right to left so all the ends were together on the left side of the car. You will need to trim them so the ends line up because you have to tie the ends together by color. I twisted the ends of each matching color together and used the supplied blue butt connectors with heat shrinks to hold them. When you are done you will have 5 connectors there. 1 with the four black wires, 1 with the four orange wires and so on. The kit didn't come with enough wire for me to use in the other side of the butt connectors. I had some red power wire and black ground wire in the garage. I also had a trailer wiring kit laying around and it worked out perfect because the three wires it had were brown, green and yellow. I proceeded to splice them into the open ends of the butt connectors with the corresponding colors. When you finish this you will have 1 of each color wire. This is what will go into the trunk later.
I then covered the wires with split wire loom. I filled the stock bulb sockets with bulb grease and covered them completly with duct tape to seal out any moisture. I ran the wire loom in behind the bumper fillers and over the filler neck near the factory loom to the left hand side. I used a couple zip ties around the loom and the bumper filler brackets to hold it in place. Now you will have all the wires hidden with just connectors for the LED boards sticking up from the bumper fillers and the end of each color wire hanging on the left hand side of the car.
Now, if you look in your trunk just behind the drivers tailight right next to the rear quarter panel you will see your trunk bottom has a small void along the quarter. Just pull your carpet up and you will see a factory connector there with a ground location right next to it on the trunk floor. This is your connection point. Look at the factory connector and you will see there is a black connector clipped into a gray one. The black connector is facing the front of the car and the gray the rear. Look at the wires coming out of the black connector that run toward the front of the car. The colors of them are exposed for a few inches before the go into some factory loom. You will see solid green, solid yellow and solid brown wire next to each other along with a couple other wires. These are the wires you need to tap into later.
If you look down into that corner of the trunk and follow the factory wires you will see where they go out the trunk and into the area behind the bumper. I drilled a small 7/16ths inch hole just above that factory hole from inside the trunk. I then pushed a rubber wire grommet into the hole. Now you can push your wires into the trunk right next to the connector you need to tap into. Looks great too because the hole is beneath the trunk floor in that void and when you pull your carpet back you won't see a thing! I then used a butt connector to connect the power wire I ran down that side earlier and the factory ground is right there. I then used 3 T-connectors to connect the corresponding colors to the factory wires.
Now, I hooked up the no-load flasher I ordered from Spaghetti. Just remove the small section underneath your dash that houses the vent blower. Two screws. You will need to pull the bottom of your dash bezel out a littlle to free the piece from behind it. Just let that hang there and look up and to the right of the steering column and you will see the flasher relay there. It has a purple and a blue wire coming from it. Just pull off the stock flasher and connect the no-load flasher. The no-load has a ground wire coming from it and I attached it to the unsed hole on the metal wire harness that is right there to your right. I then flipped the no-load flasher upside down and clipped it back into the factory bracket. You need to do that because the ground wire comes from the top of the flasher and the wire isn't that long.
You can now put the vent blower piece back on and mount the tailights back into place. If you have done it correctly you will have not cut any factory wiring and you will not notice any new wires coming into your trunk from the outside.
This is just my experience and is to be used as a guide to help you. Feel free to ask me any questions I can help you with. It takes some time but is well worth it when it is done. I'm going away for the long holiday weekend so I may not answer you right away but will as soon as I can.
Thanks to Scot W and Spaghetti for this cool add-on.
Lights operate just like the youtube video I posted and they look much much nicer with the trim on and mounted. Working on getting another video up. Here's a rundown of my install with the way I did it using the directions as more of a guideline.
All of my install is done to be completely reversible with no factory wires being cut at all.
I removed the lenses and trim and drilled the holes for the LED boards. Before I put the screws in to mount the boards I used a little bit of a flexible adhesive/sealant over the holes and then pushed the screws in for the boards. You can buy this at any auto parts store. The name of mine was Pit Crews Choice. I did this as opposed to rubber washers as it allows for a better seal against moisture.
While the sealant was setting up I ran the Orange power wire that came with the kit to the trunk light power wire. You need to get into the trunk and in the innermost lefthand corner you will see two wires coming into the trunk with factory loom and electrical tape on them. The wires are held to the inside of the trunk by plastic clips that push into holes to help route them. They are mouned one on top of the other and the trunk light power wire is inside the top one. Just peel back some of the factory tape to expose the Orange wire in there. I spliced into that with a quick clip connector and covered it with electrical tape to match and pushed the retainer clip back into the hole to retain the factory look. Now you can route your orange wire along the inside of the rear quater panel. There is a factory blue wire there. You can follow that.
I removed the license plate bracket to expose the nuts that hold the plastic part around the filler neck to the car. You will notice that it is impossible to remove this without chancing damage to your bumper fillers because the screws are welded to the car and you can't pull out enough to clear them. You need to just pull the top portion out far enough so the screws will come out of the holes and let it sit there for later. You will see the factory wire loom in there.
I then took the wires from the kit and opened them both up. You will notice there is four of each set. 4-orange and black and 4-brown, green, yellow. I paired them up and placed each pair next to the factory bulb sockets to get an idea of where they go. I lined the wires up from right to left so all the ends were together on the left side of the car. You will need to trim them so the ends line up because you have to tie the ends together by color. I twisted the ends of each matching color together and used the supplied blue butt connectors with heat shrinks to hold them. When you are done you will have 5 connectors there. 1 with the four black wires, 1 with the four orange wires and so on. The kit didn't come with enough wire for me to use in the other side of the butt connectors. I had some red power wire and black ground wire in the garage. I also had a trailer wiring kit laying around and it worked out perfect because the three wires it had were brown, green and yellow. I proceeded to splice them into the open ends of the butt connectors with the corresponding colors. When you finish this you will have 1 of each color wire. This is what will go into the trunk later.
I then covered the wires with split wire loom. I filled the stock bulb sockets with bulb grease and covered them completly with duct tape to seal out any moisture. I ran the wire loom in behind the bumper fillers and over the filler neck near the factory loom to the left hand side. I used a couple zip ties around the loom and the bumper filler brackets to hold it in place. Now you will have all the wires hidden with just connectors for the LED boards sticking up from the bumper fillers and the end of each color wire hanging on the left hand side of the car.
Now, if you look in your trunk just behind the drivers tailight right next to the rear quarter panel you will see your trunk bottom has a small void along the quarter. Just pull your carpet up and you will see a factory connector there with a ground location right next to it on the trunk floor. This is your connection point. Look at the factory connector and you will see there is a black connector clipped into a gray one. The black connector is facing the front of the car and the gray the rear. Look at the wires coming out of the black connector that run toward the front of the car. The colors of them are exposed for a few inches before the go into some factory loom. You will see solid green, solid yellow and solid brown wire next to each other along with a couple other wires. These are the wires you need to tap into later.
If you look down into that corner of the trunk and follow the factory wires you will see where they go out the trunk and into the area behind the bumper. I drilled a small 7/16ths inch hole just above that factory hole from inside the trunk. I then pushed a rubber wire grommet into the hole. Now you can push your wires into the trunk right next to the connector you need to tap into. Looks great too because the hole is beneath the trunk floor in that void and when you pull your carpet back you won't see a thing! I then used a butt connector to connect the power wire I ran down that side earlier and the factory ground is right there. I then used 3 T-connectors to connect the corresponding colors to the factory wires.
Now, I hooked up the no-load flasher I ordered from Spaghetti. Just remove the small section underneath your dash that houses the vent blower. Two screws. You will need to pull the bottom of your dash bezel out a littlle to free the piece from behind it. Just let that hang there and look up and to the right of the steering column and you will see the flasher relay there. It has a purple and a blue wire coming from it. Just pull off the stock flasher and connect the no-load flasher. The no-load has a ground wire coming from it and I attached it to the unsed hole on the metal wire harness that is right there to your right. I then flipped the no-load flasher upside down and clipped it back into the factory bracket. You need to do that because the ground wire comes from the top of the flasher and the wire isn't that long.
You can now put the vent blower piece back on and mount the tailights back into place. If you have done it correctly you will have not cut any factory wiring and you will not notice any new wires coming into your trunk from the outside.
This is just my experience and is to be used as a guide to help you. Feel free to ask me any questions I can help you with. It takes some time but is well worth it when it is done. I'm going away for the long holiday weekend so I may not answer you right away but will as soon as I can.
Thanks to Scot W and Spaghetti for this cool add-on.
