Dyno tested my car today

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Buickforlife;2478053 If I remember right the 02 was reading ~790.[/QUOTE said:
Had one last week that pinned the wideband at 10.0:1 so it was likely richer than 10:1 since thats as low as it reads and the narrow O2 recall on the scanmaster was .720. I dont even look at narrow O2 numbers. They are about useless imo.
 
welcome to the "new breed" at turbo buick.com

I've noticed that we have alot of new faces, and with that brings smart a$$ , know it all attitudes,

oh well, what goes round - comes around ! ;)
 
Buickforlife,
Don't let comments like that bother you.

When dyno'n your car start out modest tune. That means, 93 gas, low timing, moderat boost (15-17psi), no alky. Get a good baseline with good a/f #'s. Then you can add timing, boost, alky and so on.

Everyone has to start somewhere. Might as well be now.

BTW, it's going to be handy to have a valve spring removal/install tool when you get those new springs. They are a little tricky when it comes to the locks, they are small and you don't want one lost. When I did my springs many moons ago I order the tool from a buick vendor, may have been cottons not sure. And I also ordered new locks from autozone, they have the hard ones as well as the oem.

Good Luck
 
Buickforlife,
Don't let comments like that bother you.

When dyno'n your car start out modest tune. That means, 93 gas, low timing, moderat boost (15-17psi), no alky. Get a good baseline with good a/f #'s. Then you can add timing, boost, alky and so on.

Everyone has to start somewhere. Might as well be now.

BTW, it's going to be handy to have a valve spring removal/install tool when you get those new springs. They are a little tricky when it comes to the locks, they are small and you don't want one lost. When I did my springs many moons ago I order the tool from a buick vendor, may have been cottons not sure. And I also ordered new locks from autozone, they have the hard ones as well as the oem.

Good Luck

Thanks, I have a valve spring removal tool, had it forever, and never used it. I am guessing that this would be a good time to replace the valve seals as well? I bet since it has been 80k almost 90k miles, they are not gonna be too pretty. I had the car tuned before for 91 octane (all I can get around here) running about 15psi, then I added the alky, and did some test n tune on my hidden test track, the 02's were still good, I added a little bit of boost then test ran it, then added some more etc. I have the alky chip from turbo tweak, is there a user adjustable timing on there? I guess I will check the instructions to see what all I can do. You wouldn't happen to remember the part #'s for the locks would ya? I will probably try and get them ordered today, since they probably won't have them in stock.
 
Had one last week that pinned the wideband at 10.0:1 so it was likely richer than 10:1 since thats as low as it reads and the narrow O2 recall on the scanmaster was .720. I dont even look at narrow O2 numbers. They are about useless imo.

I am kindov leaning toward getting a wideband. probably an LC1, but that will have to come after I get my downpipe, and cutout.
 
From my personal experience. If the engine is giving you good feedback on gauges but not at the strip or on the dyno...consider the trans and or converter.
 
The stock valve seals are more than likely shot or gone. The valve springs should make a big differance. TT chips have a adjustable timing, just read the directions.
 
Seems low to me too just wondering if it has been to the track curious to see what 1/4 mile times it would do

Hasn't been to the track, but it feels good on the street. Really good. Part of the reason the #'s are low, is because it was on a Mustang Dyno. Not a Dynajet. The mustang dyno's tend to read 14% lower than a dynojet.
 
Hasn't been to the track, but it feels good on the street. Really good. Part of the reason the #'s are low, is because it was on a Mustang Dyno. Not a Dynajet. The mustang dyno's tend to read 14% lower than a dynojet.

Reason i asked was a club member (MAGNA) had his GN dynoed about 1 year and a half ago didn't dyno well but the car has been 10.98 with a ta49 and alky
 
hello people; I thought with a dyno the people that run it are suppose to help you with suggestions and tune. What did they say? But let me understand a dyno tune. You put the car on the thing, you run it, you get a pc. of paper back and then you have to figure out what to do? Then you make some changes and you run again correct? Do they charge you per run or is it an hour thing? How does it work? Do they work with you?
IBBY
 
hello people; I thought with a dyno the people that run it are suppose to help you with suggestions and tune. What did they say? But let me understand a dyno tune. You put the car on the thing, you run it, you get a pc. of paper back and then you have to figure out what to do? Then you make some changes and you run again correct. Do they charge you per run or is it an hour thing? How does it work? Do they work with you?
IBBY

I don't have to pay for dyno time. My school has a dyno, and I can use it whenever. But usually you will have to pay the shop for however many pulls you were wanting to make, and if you are there to get the car tuned by the shop, I am pretty sure that they will do the tuning for ya.
 
Reason i asked was a club member (MAGNA) had his GN dynoed about 1 year and a half ago didn't dyno well but the car has been 10.98 with a ta49 and alky

Same thing with my racecar, it dynod at like 350hp and 380 lb.ft or something like that, and it can do a 10.80 on motor, and 10.50's with a 100 shot.
 
why so big of injectors? we went 11.20's with 42.5# & 10.90's with 55#, & the tune was dead on with 30psi & Reds chip.
 
why so big of injectors? we went 11.20's with 42.5# & 10.90's with 55#, & the tune was dead on with 30psi & Reds chip.

That is what people suggested for me to get. And I didn't want to spend the money twice for new injectors, so I just got the 60lbs.
 
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