Dyno tomorrow, guess my HP/TQ

[Nick McCardle]

So, I've got an appointment at the dyno tomorrow just to see what the old brick can put down before I start going to the track this season.
Here are the "meaningful" (I guess?) mods you might need to know about. Motor and transmission are basically stock rebuilds with low miles.

TH 3" Downpipe, K&N Filter, 3" MAF Pipe, Precision PT54 Turbo w/ HD Actuator
Big Neck Intercooler, EBay Catalytic Converter, ATR SS Crossflow Exhaust, QTP Electric Exhaust Cut-Out (partially open)
MSD 50lb Injectors, Adjustable FPR (about 46psi line off), Walbro 340 Fuel Pump w/ Casper’s Hotwire Kit
Hypertech 160* Thermostat, Comp Cams 980 Valve Springs
Vigilante 9 ½” L/U/Single Disk/3400 Stall Torque Converter

110 Gas
TurboTweak 110 Octane Race Chip (27*/29*), Converter Locked at WOT
Here's my tune (May be slightly odd, but I like it)-
WOT + 20.3% fuel in all gears
WOT 1/2 + 0.7* Timing
WOT 3/4 + 1.1* Timing
Boost stays right around 25lbs
o2s around 780-800, showing absolutely zero knock

Take your guesses, I'll post numbers tomorrow.

 

[Blazer406]

You didn't say what brand dyno...

Assuming a Dynojet that is much more loose with it's numbers IMHO....

I'd say.... 480 hp and 540 ft-lbs

 

[Nick McCardle]

You didn't say what brand dyno...

Assuming a Dynojet that is much more loose with it's numbers IMHO....

I'd say.... 480 hp and 540 ft-lbs

Sorry, it is a dynojet.

 

[RatFink]

Why electric cut-out "partially" open?
Sounds like a tried and true high/mid 11 second combo...so 505 hp 565 ft lb tq.

 

[Nick McCardle]

Why electric cut-out "partially" open?
Sounds like a tried and true high/mid 11 second combo...so 505 hp 565 ft lb tq.

Fully open and boost creeps, closed I don't like everything having to go through that e-bay cat. Partially open (a little less than full) and it hits 25 and stays solid. My cut-out is now a tuning tool

 

[Blazer406]

Sorry, it is a dynojet.

In my experience... I've been exposed to two different rear wheel dynos... the dynojet... and the Mustang. I think there is a fundamental design difference.... therefore IMHO... could be a major contributing factor to why (again... in my experience)... the Mustang is stingy with HP numbers.... and the dynojet is more loose i.e. it will show you making more power than the Mustang...

IMHO... it really doersn't matter... as long as you use it as a tuning tool... and use the same tool each time... that is the only way you can be sure if you have made more power....

In the grand scheme... the track is the best dyno anyway... but you can make more changes in a given period of time and test them on a dyno.... so they do hold value IMHO... for tuning.

Good luck... and let us know what she lays down...

 

[RatFink]

Fully open and boost creeps, closed I don't like everything having to go through that e-bay cat. Partially open (a little less than full) and it hits 25 and stays solid. My cut-out is now a tuning tool

Interesting, You have a cat because of testing? is the E-bay cat Hi flow?
Can't you get the 20 yr old antique licensing to avoid emissions testing?
I run mine open when racing, it does creep but only in OD, really bad. have to close it completely if I try a top end run, then it levels out at 23psi.

 

[turboclam]

Hey Nick...

Where is the dyno your using? I'm curious because I'm not too far from Canton. Do you frequent Riverstone? Thanks Michael

 

[Nick McCardle]

Interesting, You have a cat because of testing? is the E-bay cat Hi flow?
Can't you get the 20 yr old antique licensing to avoid emissions testing?
I run mine open when racing, it does creep but only in OD, really bad. have to close it completely if I try a top end run, then it levels out at 23psi.

Yep, I keep a cat for testing. 1982 and newer for 13 counties in the state, I need to move further from Atlanta

 

[Nick McCardle]

Where is the dyno your using? I'm curious because I'm not too far from Canton. Do you frequent Riverstone? Thanks Michael

I'll be going to TopSpeed, they're in Alpharetta. There's a good number of dynos within the same distance. However, they were only one of two that were open when I called to schedule today....and I didn't like the attitude of the other shop when I mentioned I would call him back in a little while to confirm. Top Speed is a great shop though, they do a lot of import work mostly and have a great reputation. I'm around Riverstone a lot, I only live about a mile and a half from it. You should come to the monthly cruise-in there, usually around 500 cars. PM me for more info on the cruise-in or if you want contact info for some other dynos.

 

[bison]

With the converter locked and 11.3:1 a/f:
512hp, 598t/lbs

Those numbers you told us about adding fuel dont tell us much since we dont know the baseline or the a/f at baseline. You should get a re-burn to get your fueling closer to baseline since you are adding 20% in case the adjustment is lost unknowingly and you floor it. It would be a bad lean out condition. We also assume you are going to extract as much as possible at 25 psi. I think you will be rich if the O2 is .780-.800. You need an egt or wideband readout. I picked up 39hp at the wheels with nothing but a lean out from 10.3 to 11.1. That was on a Mustang dyno also.

 

[Nick McCardle]

Well, just got home. I worked on leaning it out a good bit before going this morning. Bumped the WOT fuel down about 23% total from the craziness I was at and was still having o2s of about 790 with the FPR at 42psi line off. Ended up closing the cut-out also.

First run was right around the pre-set WOT fuel for the chip, second was minus about 4-5% I believe. We also hooked up a wideband on the last run and it was pretty obvious it's pig rich although I don't remember the exact number.

One question, how can I lock the transmission in gear the next time I go so that we're not fighting a downshift?

I must say I'm disappointed in the numbers, but with it as rich as it was I can't expect too much. I understand the key to power with these cars is tuning, tuning, tuning...and I just haven't done much to it yet. At least now I have a baseline I can work from as far as fuel/timing/boost goes. Lots of trips to the track in the next few months for tuning and I'll try the dyno again with this same set-up, just tuned MUCH better. Anybody selling a Power Logger cheap?

 

[Blazer406]

Don't be too disappointed... get a wideband... and a good datalogger....and get her dialed in... get it to sub 11.50's.... and you will be in the upper 400 hp range to the tires.... nothing shabby about that...

 

[Nick McCardle]

Don't be too disappointed... get a wideband... and a good datalogger....and get her dialed in... get it to sub 11.50's.... and you will be in the upper 400 hp range to the tires.... nothing shabby about that...

Honestly think I might pick up that much with tuning? Any suggestions on a good wideband for our cars? There's so many out there.

I'll be at one of the local 1/8 mile tracks this Sunday trying to work out the bugs and tuning with the ScanMaster/TT chip. I'll start out with the tune I ran on the dyno and go from there to see what I can pick up, will let ya know. Depending on how the first run goes I may reset the chip back to the presets, see if it improves..and then begin adjusting fuel from there.

 

[Blazer406]

..... Any suggestions on a good wideband for our cars? There's so many out there.

I am running the Innovate LC1/XD16 combo.... I like it. You can even datalog it with a laptop....

IMHO... the scanmaster is a decent tuning tool.... however IMHO you really need a directscan or powerlogger.... the framerates are so much faster you can truly get a much more accurate picture of the run. If you don't have access to borrow one of the above... and you are about to purchase one... I recommend the powerlogger....It would also log the wideband... where DS won't....

 

[Nick McCardle]

I am running the Innovate LC1/XD16 combo.... I like it. You can even datalog it with a laptop....

IMHO... the scanmaster is a decent tuning tool.... however IMHO you really need a directscan or powerlogger.... the framerates are so much faster you can truly get a much more accurate picture of the run. If you don't have access to borrow one of the above... and you are about to purchase one... I recommend the powerlogger....It would also log the wideband... where DS won't....

Yeah, my next purchases will definitely be a powerlogger and wideband....just slow funds at the moment. I've got a notebook started now to log all of my settings on each different run at the track and on the dyno so I can keep track of what works and what doesn't and adjust accordingly.

 

[TwinyTwin]

Wish I saw this post a few days earlier. I am 2 exits from Top Speed and know Trey and Doug really well.

 

[bison]

You cant avoid kick down to 2nd under 61 mph with the stock BR vb calibration. Thats why you need to nail it and lock the converter as its spooled. Your torque should be higher than your hp. What was the converter slip %? Why didnt the dyno owner give you the a/f numbers? .790 was around 10.2-10.3 for me when i last checked but the narrow O2's are crap for tuning feedback when there are widebands and EGT gauges available. I use an LM1 on my car and many others for easy a/f input.

 

[Nick McCardle]

You cant avoid kick down to 2nd under 61 mph with the stock BR vb calibration. Thats why you need to nail it and lock the converter as its spooled. Your torque should be higher than your hp. What was the converter slip %? Why didnt the dyno owner give you the a/f numbers? .790 was around 10.2-10.3 for me when i last checked but the narrow O2's are crap for tuning feedback when there are widebands and EGT gauges available. I use an LM1 on my car and many others for easy a/f input.

Good to know 61mph to avoid kick-down, thanks! No way to lock it in gear regardless of MPH? Don't know the converter slip %, and we didn't do a/f as it was just a few pulls for power, not tuning. Unfortunately can't afford a wideband or egt at the moment and will be working with what I have for a bit. I'll let you guys know how it goes at the strip this weekend, thanks for all the responses.

 

[Royal-T-Ltd]

You cant avoid kick down to 2nd under 61 mph with the stock BR vb calibration. Thats why you need to nail it and lock the converter as its spooled. Your torque should be higher than your hp. What was the converter slip %? Why didnt the dyno owner give you the a/f numbers? .790 was around 10.2-10.3 for me when i last checked but the narrow O2's are crap for tuning feedback when there are widebands and EGT gauges available. I use an LM1 on my car and many others for easy a/f input.

AGREED narrow-bands SUCK! my first Dyno experience and i had my car tuned "a lil' rich [what i thought] to a safe 780-800mv - got a WB02 on at the Dyno place and too my surprise, the 780-800 equated a 9.X-10.X:1 AFR i lowered my fueling and gained an instant 30-40 HP. and still had a lot left in it.