richburke03
Member
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2011
- Messages
- 145
No the factory wastegate solenoid is still connected
E85 Question
- Thread starter richburke03
- Start date
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
I would shorten the actuator rod by turning the adjuster two turns clockwise. I think your actuator is too loose,resulting in the boost settling to a lower number. I'm assuming you're running 93 octane. If you have a 93 chip,it's probably burned for 17 lbs of boost. If you run E85,you'll be able to run 21 lbs of boost without detonation. Much more with a different turbo.
You don't have to worry about fixing your boost issue before switching to E85. Number one,you have low boost so there's nothing to worry about. Number two,e85 will protect you from high boost. It'll take all the boost you throw at it. The thing that you should worry about,when high boost is the issue,is the 93 in the tank.
hey guys, even though this thread is a little long in the tooth (2 years lol) Ive come down the same path as the OP. Old ta49 turbo leaks a little, TA pefrormace dp, 60 lb inj. hotwire, walbro 340, e85 from TT, accufab fpr, low boost, around 12-14 still connected to ecm, powerlogger pretty much same setup as OP but not 9k miiles
I went ahead and put half a tank of e85 in there and i get knock everywhere everytime all the time.
the car is still very new to me so im still ironing things out. Ive seen knock retard in the powerlogger as high as 19. funny thing is the tps is never, ever at wot led me to believe its false knock. the downpipe is almost touching the metal shroud above it, i think that shroud is part of the ac condensor idk.
I was talking with a good gn friend of mine (timmer) he thinks the fuel pump cant get enough fuel to the rail, I was reading him as example from the plogger as follows
tps 2.79 rpm 2850 o2mv .047 the o2 drops from 780 or so to .047 a few frames before the tps goes to .46 idel.
so with the o2 numbers being so low at partial throttle obviously the car is way way tool leaned out so it makes me think the knock is real. im looking at the fpr being bad, (supposed to have been new when i bought the car) or an o2 sensor thats not bad, but maybe intermittent because there is no check enginge light ever.
I went ahead and put half a tank of e85 in there and i get knock everywhere everytime all the time.
the car is still very new to me so im still ironing things out. Ive seen knock retard in the powerlogger as high as 19. funny thing is the tps is never, ever at wot led me to believe its false knock. the downpipe is almost touching the metal shroud above it, i think that shroud is part of the ac condensor idk.
I was talking with a good gn friend of mine (timmer) he thinks the fuel pump cant get enough fuel to the rail, I was reading him as example from the plogger as follows
tps 2.79 rpm 2850 o2mv .047 the o2 drops from 780 or so to .047 a few frames before the tps goes to .46 idel.
so with the o2 numbers being so low at partial throttle obviously the car is way way tool leaned out so it makes me think the knock is real. im looking at the fpr being bad, (supposed to have been new when i bought the car) or an o2 sensor thats not bad, but maybe intermittent because there is no check enginge light ever.
Last edited:
You must check fuel pressure with a gauge or else you're just guessing.
Ttype6 - ok so i got the fuel gauge up to the window so I can see whats what.... damn...... fuel pressure never moves above the set pressure of 42 lbs. Here is a log file thats not even wide open, i went about half throttle and didnt see the fuel move so i let off. To my chagrin when i looked at the logfile even at half throttle i got 15 degrees of knock retard.
some characteristics of what i saw:
-- once i had the fuel line in there to move gauge up to window it took 25-30 seconds for gauge to read pressure, probably pushing the air out of the way.
-- fuel pressure drops off rapidly after engine off.
-- after severl engine cycles, upon turning the key over the fuel pressure isnt snappy, or near instant to charge the lines. this is a brand new walbro 340 from turbotweakstore.
some characteristics of what i saw:
-- once i had the fuel line in there to move gauge up to window it took 25-30 seconds for gauge to read pressure, probably pushing the air out of the way.
-- fuel pressure drops off rapidly after engine off.
-- after severl engine cycles, upon turning the key over the fuel pressure isnt snappy, or near instant to charge the lines. this is a brand new walbro 340 from turbotweakstore.
Last edited:
We're only concerned about WOT pressure.
heres a vid engine off for like 10 minutes, then keyed on and started takes almost 60 seconds to reach 42 lbs may be nothing.
edit ok scratch that i cant upload videos. it takes 60 seconds to get to 42 lbs pressure. Then a key cycle off and on, at 30 lbs key on it takes 30 seconds to get back to the 42 lbs. Again could mean nothing.
edit ok scratch that i cant upload videos. it takes 60 seconds to get to 42 lbs pressure. Then a key cycle off and on, at 30 lbs key on it takes 30 seconds to get back to the 42 lbs. Again could mean nothing.
I cant get to WOT without 15 degrees or more of knock. I have seen as high as 25 on logfiles. Not going wot any more til i find where my fueling issue is. Im lucky i havent melted anything yet.
Eric Stage I
TurboTweak Guy
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
- Messages
- 2,671
It's possible the hose between the fuel pump and sender came undone if not securely tightened. I've seen it many times. Unfortunately you would have to drop the tank to inspect.
But also make sure you are getting a good vacuum/boost signal to the fuel pressure regulator.
If you can't find anything else, I can test the pump and replace if necessary (if under warranty still).
Regards,
Eric
But also make sure you are getting a good vacuum/boost signal to the fuel pressure regulator.
If you can't find anything else, I can test the pump and replace if necessary (if under warranty still).
Regards,
Eric
Now you know what the problem is. Check power and ground circuits. If good,remove tank. If you have a hotwire,check all of that wiring.
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2009
- Messages
- 2,685
Put a hand pump like a Mity Vac on the the fuel regulator vacuum line and pump it up while watching fuel pressure , your fuel pressure should rise 1 psi for every 1 psi of air pressure you apply to the regulator .
I triple verified the hose in the tank was absolutely secure, just for that reason so Im confident thats not the problem. I swapped out the accufab for the stock regulator and the same symptoms exist; slow fuel pressure rise (10 seconds or more) no change when vac line comes off and no increase in fuel pressure with increase in rpm. Also I noticed the factory fpr holds pressure in the system after key off where the accufab drops almost instantly...i dont now if that mattters or is relevelant
hey dynoman, Im thinking the problems is getting pressure to the regulator, not necessarily the regulator itself. i did hit the vac barb on the regulator with some air, no change in pressure. Since its taking up to 30 seconds to get full pressure of 42 lbs It has got to be a pump which is brand new, or maybe a kink in the fuel delivery system. Not being a star mechanic; is the possibility of reversing the lines at the tank possible? i did tape the lines and mark them before i took them off the car but hey theres always a possibility i got the supply/return line backwards. iF that were the case is there a way to check that without removing the tank, maybe disocnnect the supply line at the fuel rail and cycle the key.... see which side the fuel comes from either the rail or the supply line.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2009
- Messages
- 2,685
That might work , but cover each side with a rag cause it will spray . I would start looking at your 12v supply and grounds at the pump like Ttype6 suggested. If you have at least 12v going up to the pump with a good ground , check out my favorite poor connection location the bulk head connector at the top of the tank ( the yellow one ), check for burned male & female connections , it is easily over looked and I have had 3 bad ones in 3 different vehicles . Good Luck , Sam
Disconnect any and every connection and check visually.
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2009
- Messages
- 2,685
Yes ,on top of the sender and is yellow. That is what the fuel pump connects to inside the tank and the intermediate harness plugs into out side the tank . You have to pull the pump to check both sides of the connector. For a picture of it go on Racetronix web site and look up G7 In-tank & Intermediate Harness Kit .
