Engine breaking up in Boost

Amab145

Member
Sep 30, 2013
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Denver, NC
Hey guys, I'm having a terrible issue of my car breaking up when I roll into the throttle and come into boost. Cruising around not in any type of boost the car is fine, but once I get into boost it's ugly. I haven't gone past 7-8psi because when this happens, I'm afraid of doing damage to the engine so I back out of it. I've logged it and can't seem to pick up on anything, but I am a novice when it comes to XFI. The log doesn't go past 2psi and it runs pretty rough. I'm hoping I can email someone my log for them to take a look as it won't let me upload it to this thread??
 

NY Twin Turbo

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Hey guys, I'm having a terrible issue of my car breaking up when I roll into the throttle and come into boost. Cruising around not in any type of boost the car is fine, but once I get into boost it's ugly. I haven't gone past 7-8psi because when this happens, I'm afraid of doing damage to the engine so I back out of it. I've logged it and can't seem to pick up on anything, but I am a novice when it comes to XFI. The log doesn't go past 2psi and it runs pretty rough. I'm hoping I can email someone my log for them to take a look as it won't let me upload it to this thread??
If it runs fine when there is no boost, and you don’t see anything on usual on the XFI before it begins to break up, it’s most likely the coilpack
 
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NY Twin Turbo

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Coil pack or ignition module
In my experience, when the ignition module is bad, it simply won't start or it will quit like you turned the key.

But when it runs well at idle, cruise, and then breaks up while boosted, it's the coil pack. If the coil pack is real f^cked up, it will also run poorly at other load points. Also, it's very rare more than one coil goes bad at the same time. Unless you have been ignoring it for a while and the others finally caught-up with the first bad one.
 
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Amab145

Member
Sep 30, 2013
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8
Denver, NC
Thanks for the input. The car doesn’t have a stock coil back on it, has a TR-6 on it that i put on when I built the engine two years ago. Are The TR-6’s know to fail with only a few hundred miles on them?
 

dank GN

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if you have a TR6 I would check out your cam sensor . you might have to remove it and go over it and then re install it dead on the 25* ATDC. for some reason the tr6 is very picky with the cam sensor setting .I have actually had the same issue and it turned out the cam sensor lil tab on the reluctor wheel broke causing it to move . so yea triple check your cam sensor and while you are at it check out the crank sensor aswell
 

Amab145

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Sep 30, 2013
46
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Denver, NC
I also reverified the cam sensor yesterday and it is at 25* ATDC using Caspers tool. While it was set correctly, I went through the whole procedure to reverify and it's all good.
 

Amab145

Member
Sep 30, 2013
46
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Denver, NC
Bob, I have NGK R5671A-9’s in it now. I’ll have to do find out if they are resistor style plugs. If not, what plug do you recommend for the TR6 that’ll work with my TA heads? Thanks!
 

Chuck Leeper

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vboosted6

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I just went thru same thing with my car.Changed over to a resistor plug,car is running tops.Was using a NGK 4554 R5671 before TR6 install now a BKR6E 6992.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
 

Amab145

Member
Sep 30, 2013
46
3
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Denver, NC
Thanks for the suggestion. I called NGK and they recommended that plug as well, the BKR6E, however many on this forum are saying it’s taboo to use a projected plug with our boosted applications?

Seems next to impossible to find a 14mm plug with a 3/4” reach, 5/8” socket size to work with the TA heads, with a resistor AND non-projected? I’ve checked NGK, Denso and Autolite. Is projected vs. non-projected really that big of an issue?