I got the motor all freshened up put in new bearings rings,lifters etc.I drove it 600 some miles not a single noise or drip.Now i just started getting a knock and it is at 1700 rpms not idle,just when it hits 1700 and up.It sounds like it is in the top half of the engine like by the plenum.I pulled both valve covers and checked shaftys and bolts,all were tight.Pulled torque cover all flywheel and converter bolts were good.I listened under the car and had somone throttle it to 1700 not coming from bottom half.Is it possible the hydro roller lifters i got with my cam one is bad... Anybody got a way to tell
Engine noise....
- Thread starter kraus
- Start date
is it possible the stock rockers are this loose and it is causing a rattle/knock.Reason I ask is they are stock shafts and rockers.I pulled covers and turned it over with off all rockers move .Started it and noise is there but much quieter with covers off.Sounds is from passenger rear ...
I have a similar noise, same area, comp hydraulic roller setup, stock rockers etc. Possible differences are mine is noticeable at idle, started sooner, (I have apx 800 miles on mine now) and may be slightly louder when the engine is hot. I noticed no problems when I had the valve cover off. I have been told it is normal for this setup, but the passenger side is louder than the driver’s side…
Please update if you find a cure for this. Thanks
Please update if you find a cure for this. ThanksBlack Power
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 3, 2006
Subscribing.
Mine has a similar problem and it's distinctly from the driver's side of the engine. I am already ripping mine apart, if I find the culprit I will let you guys know.
Mine has a similar problem and it's distinctly from the driver's side of the engine. I am already ripping mine apart, if I find the culprit I will let you guys know.
You guys got me scared now, i only have 250 miles after complete rebuild and new parts: crank, rods, roller cam, springs & lifters scorpion rockers,
mine sound Very quiet as of now but im hoping nothing goes wrong during this initial break in I think Fred did a super job on my build. so we'll wait & see on this noise issue.
both valve covers are leaking im fixing that at the moment. im using VR1 10-30 for my break in oil i was told to use straight 30. i had a case of 10-30 which is why i was using that. When i get to my 1500 mile oil change im going to the straight 30.
did you guys use the proper break in procedure?
mine sound Very quiet as of now but im hoping nothing goes wrong during this initial break in I think Fred did a super job on my build. so we'll wait & see on this noise issue.
both valve covers are leaking im fixing that at the moment. im using VR1 10-30 for my break in oil i was told to use straight 30. i had a case of 10-30 which is why i was using that. When i get to my 1500 mile oil change im going to the straight 30.
did you guys use the proper break in procedure?
yup read comps cam break in did that like said drove 600 miles and know got problems.I have stock shafts and rockers unlike you,you have scorpion rockers at least.Like I said mine have a burr on the rocker where it rides the shaft which I don't think should be there.I think it is from spring and lift of cam but what do I know.Thats why I am asking here...
I see fullthrottle sells a ste of rollers for stock heads,do these require pedistal mount grinding also.I see where the pushrod goes there is a adjustable section with a nut.anybody use these...
FULL THROTTLE SPEED - Item Description Page
FULL THROTTLE SPEED - Item Description Page
thats what i was thinking,like i said side of rockers have a burr and just don't look right where they ride on the shafts.I have a pic but is to big to down load here...
Black Power
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 3, 2006
You have a roller cam, you don't have to do anything special for them. They don't go flat suddenly. Nothing to worry about for you...
chrisgarrett
Registered Member
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2004
I don't want to take this on a wrong turn, but are you sure the noise is coming from the top of the engine. Could it be the converter? And did you pull the pushrods and check them? Finally, did you use a stethescope or long screw driver to isolate the source of the sound? Just trying to give you some ideas.
pulled push rods all straight same length etc.Checked converter bolts ,motor mount bolts,starter bolts,trans-motor bolts,fly wheel,balancer ,water pump,headers bolts ,cross pipe, pulled belt off motor in case it was tensioner or alternator/a/c.I laid under car when running listening it quite under car.Stand on top it rattle in center top.I am going to trailer it to my work and use stethiscope on it there tommorrow and see.As of right now i am baffeled i drove it 600 miles before noise showed up....
chrisgarrett
Registered Member
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2004
Sounds like you've been very thorough. Did you watch the pushrods with the engine running to see if they all turn and move correctly? I'm sure you've consider that it might be a wiped lobe.
Sorry, I just noticed you had a roller.
Sorry, I just noticed you had a roller.
Black Power
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 3, 2006
Found mine
After ripping the better part of the car apart I found a HUGE crack in the driver's side header.
What's weird is that it REALLY sounded like a valvetrain problem, had the metallic tick and sorta vibrating sound like maybe a broken spring or a flat lobe....I am going to put her back together and check for any more odd noises, hope you find yours as well...
After ripping the better part of the car apart I found a HUGE crack in the driver's side header.
What's weird is that it REALLY sounded like a valvetrain problem, had the metallic tick and sorta vibrating sound like maybe a broken spring or a flat lobe....I am going to put her back together and check for any more odd noises, hope you find yours as well...
