Engine quit. Fuel pump not running

[Jason McClure]

Died on me last night. Fuel pump/injector fuse was good. Relay contacts were corroded. Cleaned that up but still no luck. I don't hear the pump running. It's a Racetronix with a hot wire kit. Kirban regulator. Was running good and then just quit.

I have been noticing that the fuel pressure is dropping a little and I've been adjusting on that.

Any suggestions? Thanks


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[Phoneguy]

There is a fuel pump test tap in the harness by the alternator. Power that tap from the back of the alternator to see if you can get the fuel pump to run.

Bryan

 

[Jason McClure]

I'll give that a try tomorrow. Thanks


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[Nick Micale]

If the procedure Bryan posted is not successful in running the fuel pump, remove the connector from the hot wire relay and place a jumper between the two 10 ga. power terminals as that should give you 12 volts direct into the pump.

 

[Jason McClure]

Ok, I made up a jumper from the fuel port to the alternator and still no luck. Nobody local had a relay until Wednesday so I will try that once I get it. Thanks guys


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[earlbrown]

Probe the power wire at the back of the car and have someone turn the key on. If you have a two second power burst, everything infront of the tank is good to go.

 

[aminga]

 

[dynoman]

If you have a meter, first do like Earl said and check for power going to the pump. If you have power check the resistance between the to wires going up to the pump (tan / white wire to black/white wire) . A good pump will read about 1.5 to 2.5 ohms , if it's higher you probably have a bad connection (burned wires) at the bulk head connector or at the pump......drop the tank . If you get no resistance ( open circuit) .....drop the tank and look for the open circuit or bad pump. good luck. Sam

 

[Jason McClure]

Thanks for the replies and help guys. The 20 amp fuse in the hot wire kit was blown. I replaced the fused. Turned the key on. The fuel pump was buzzing and I had fuel pressure. The engine fired instantly. My question is why would the fuse blow? Thanks again


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[Shawn N]

If you have the Casper's hot wire kit there should be a 30a fuse not a 20a. It's the most common kit used on our TR's. If it has a relay by the fuel tank and a ground strap from tank to frame it's most likely it. The fuse should be on the drivers side fender after the connection to the alt stud. Pictures would help us identify it.

 

[turbojd]

I have blown a couple of those "hot wire 30 amp relays" mine is in the back under the rear bumper. I keep spares on hand just in case.
You can always bypass the hot wire harness and plug it in like the factory had it and the car wll have fuel pressure.

 

[aminga]

If you have the Casper's hot wire kit there should be a 30a fuse not a 20a. It's the most common kit used on our TR's. If it has a relay by the fuel tank and a ground strap from tank to frame it's most likely it. The fuse should be on the drivers side fender after the connection to the alt stud. Pictures would help us identify it.

Recent incarnations it the kit have had a 20 amp fuse mine (bought in 2011) did as well


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[dynoman]

If you keep blowing the fuse I would start looking for a bad connection. Higher resistance (above 2.5 ohms) means higher current draw and blown fuses. I hd bad connections on my Buick and my GMC truck both at the bulk head connector. glad you found the problem. Sam

 

[Jason McClure]

Thanks guys. It's a Racetronix kit. It came with the 20amp fuse. I cleaned all the relays and checked all the grounds. So far all is good.


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