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SignUp Now!What makes Quint's such a hard spool case? Judging by his sig, it appears he has a pretty good setup going as far as component matching for a decent spool. I'm assuming Quint is using big cubes.
Stage 2 heads and a 91mm thumper off of a V8. The large turbine side makes it hard to spool.
GT55 would have probably worked better or maybe on of Precision's new offerings. Do the Pro Mod units come with small turbine options?
If the engine is capable of 10,000 rpm. Probably redline with very little, if any, rpm drop at the shifts.10,000rpm![]()
I'm convinced you're right Otto. I've had the feeling for quite some time. I'm going to play with the tune a little longer before I make a move on the T/C. The more data I have with this T/C, the easier it will be to decide what changes need to be made.Don,If your convertor is 4900 at full boost its time for you to realize taht it is WAY WAY WAY to tight period.
What is your shift rpm?
If your not shifting at 5500 take your convertor out and loosen it and see how much better it spools.
It should be flashing to ATLEAST 3000.
Argue all you want,but you could be out racing and enjoying your car rather than trying to find another way to mask a completely obvious solution.
The parts aren't cheap. The more info I can pass onto them, the easier it will be for them to set me up with the right parts the first time.Don't you have a chance bolt together?
If so get the parts and play with it.
Don,If your convertor is 4900 at full boost its time for you to realize taht it is WAY WAY WAY to tight period.
What is your shift rpm?
If your not shifting at 5500 take your convertor out and loosen it and see how much better it spools.
It should be flashing to ATLEAST 3000.
Argue all you want,but you could be out racing and enjoying your car rather than trying to find another way to mask a completely obvious solution.
I'm convinced you're right Otto. I've had the feeling for quite some time. I'm going to play with the tune a little longer before I make a move on the T/C. The more data I have with this T/C, the easier it will be to decide what changes need to be made.
If your shifting at 7400 you really dont need it to drop all the way to 6000 on a shift.
Remember that a 285 shot with nitrous/alcohol is not the same as a 285 shot with nitrous/gasoline.You should have enough data for Marty with your 0# boost test. He needs to be a good bit looser down low while sacrificing as little up top as he can. When our 9.5 was desinged, it comes out of the box in this configuration already.
You will always have to use the nitrous but he should be able to get it so that a 200 shot is plenty to get it spooled quickly.
When I shift at 7,400, I feel that I'm lunging it out a little longer than I should. If I shift anywhere between 6,900 to 7,400, it usually yields a rpm drop to the same point of 6050 to 6150 rpm.
With the proper T/C, what rpm drop should I expect?
The rpm pull back on the shift is not a problem with this engine and this turbo. The power is pretty flat from 6000 to 7400 rpm. The boost actually spikes with no drop below the controller set level at the end of the shifts, so the exhaust energy is there to keep this big turbo spooled within that rpm range. The problem with the amount of rpm drop as it is now is purely traction. The tires get shocked pretty hard. I'm also assuming that by going higher with the stall speed will make the rpm drop at the shifts smaller. Am I incorrect with that thinking? Can a t/c that stalls at 3700 to 4000 rpm off nitrous and off boost still have an rpm drop of 1,000 rpm? And if it can, will it shock the tires less and still have good coupling on the top end?With your engine size I would look for no more than 800. It's just to small with that size turbo to be pulling it back hard on the shift.
When a combo is well matched you can get a converter that pulls back 1000rpm and slips 3-4%. When a combo isn't matched well you have to give up some efficiency to keep the engine in the power band and you'll see the car run faster with 8% slip than it will at 4%.