Found a StageII here in Sweden, have questions!

[Big Stu]

Call up waterman if you plan on using their stuff and see what pump they might recommend for your application. I'm sure they can provide some good maintenance tips for methanol use and how not to screw stuff up like expensive pumps. As far as the turbo, holset is good, why not a 91mm or even a 98 from precision or innovative or tubonetics? If I remeber correctly you guys are using a clutch setup, so spooling something that big shouldn't pose too many problems. What kind of buildup details are you looking for? You have most of the parts that anyone with a high hp stage 2 motor uses... are you guys looking for specific tolerances and clearances? With a car that light and aerodynamic, you might only have to make around 1250hp to go into the mid to low 7's, providing you get the chassis sorted out, if it even needs it?

 

[The Swede]

What kind of buildup details are you looking for?

The gear drive, how you have solved the waterpumps, electric? Maybe how the belt is hooked up to the alternator?

Intake, how the injectors are monuted and the fuel rail is constructed...
Maybe someone has a sheetmetal intake as well?

Turbonetics has Thumper and Super Thumper from what i understand they are between 91-105mm, the problem is to get the correct turbo setup so you don't get overpressure in the exhaust side in the turbo.

 

[buickstage II]

hey,
if anyone would share inlet manifold ideas???, injectors placing???

cheers Simon

 

[Big Stu]

The gear drive, how you have solved the waterpumps, electric? Maybe how the belt is hooked up to the alternator?

Intake, how the injectors are monuted and the fuel rail is constructed...
Maybe someone has a sheetmetal intake as well?

Turbonetics has Thumper and Super Thumper from what i understand they are between 91-105mm, the problem is to get the correct turbo setup so you don't get overpressure in the exhaust side in the turbo.

I have a hogans sheetmetal twin turbo intake... I will try to take some pics and send them to you. You can buy fuel rails already set up, and just have them welded onto your intake. I don't know about gear drives, hopefully someone here with one will send you some pics. Most guys use electric water pumps, again, someone here should be nice enough to help with some pics of their motor.

 

[The Swede]

Thanks Big Stu!

Really nice of you if you could take some pics and mail them to me, i still haven't got any pics from the other lurkers....

Buy ready fuel rails?
Then all the fun is gone, we like to go the hard way...
And do they have ready fuel rails for twin inj?

 

[The Swede]

hey,
if anyone would share inlet manifold ideas???, injectors placing???

cheers Simon

Just drill and weld.....

Here is something i found on the net,

http://www.secondhandsix.com/ttype/tunnel.htm

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/pictureguides/intakes/customstgII.html

 

[The Swede]

Big Stu,

Is this your intake? http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/pictureguides/intakes/sheetmetal.html

Are the 2 plenums connected together?

 

[Big Stu]

Big Stu,

Is this your intake? http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/pictureguides/intakes/sheetmetal.html

Are the 2 plenums connected together?

Yes, they are identical. My intake came off ron fruchey's old ssdx record holder gn. They are as nice as an intake gets.

 

[John Wilde]

Swede,

Stuart's intake has two plenums and they do not connect.
This intake was state of the art when I purchased it about 6 years ago.
The newer school of thought is that I single plenum is a better design.

I have a sheet metal and converted cast intake that I can get you pictures of at some point.

 

[Big Stu]

Swede,

Stuart's intake has two plenums and they do not connect.
This intake was state of the art when I purchased it about 6 years ago.
The newer school of thought is that I single plenum is a better design.

I have a sheet metal and converted cast intake that I can get you pictures of at some point.

Hey, they are cheap to buy, I was thinking about getting another one. They will move some serious air, not very often one comes along for sale.

 

[John Wilde]

Hey, they are cheap to buy, I was thinking about getting another one. They will move some serious air, not very often one comes along for sale.

How is the baby doing???

 

[Big Stu]

How is the baby doing???

The baby is doing great, she's getting really big really fast.

 

[Lunkan]

Just wanted to say hello from Zakynthos where I've been for 10 days. Just took the time to read some mail and take a look on what have happened here.

Good to see that You're hunting tips and tricks until I get home next wednesday

ATB
/Andreas

 

[The Swede]

Hello guys,

Lunkan and I was at the engine builder today.... he was really worried over the crank, he knocked on the crank and tould us that he's guess was maximum 1000hp from it. He's thoughts where: this is not a forged crank?

Did a search here in the forum on the 25500008 crank and all i found where some for sale ads.

Is this crank used in all your engines or do you have some billet stuff?
We will not build an engine that maybe gets in 2 pieces....

The enginebuilder tould us that the Carrillo rods maybe not would hold the engine as well.... but, he really liked the block and heads!

Is the trick to use blown Chevy BB rods?

 

[Big Stu]

Hello guys,

Lunkan and I was at the engine builder today.... he was really worried over the crank, he knocked on the crank and tould us that he's guess was maximum 1000hp from it. He's thoughts where: this is not a forged crank?

Did a search here in the forum on the 25500008 crank and all i found where some for sale ads.

Is this crank used in all your engines or do you have some billet stuff?
We will not build an engine that maybe gets in 2 pieces....

The enginebuilder tould us that the Carrillo rods maybe not would hold the engine as well.... but, he really liked the block and heads!

Is the trick to use blown Chevy BB rods?

Bill used carrillo rods in his car and they took at least 1500hp. I like the olivers personally but...... anyone can use good parts and still destroy a good motor depending on poor assembly practices and lack of tuning. Anyway, about your crank, if you are going for extreme hp I would recommend a good billet crank like a crower or the one i have which is a cola. Both are excellent for high hp builds. I never thought forged cranks were bad though, does gnttype.org have any info on cranks that you could look up?

 

[Alky V6]

Hello again guys!

On Monday we are going to pick up our StageII 153 casting on centre engine.

We need all of your help from over there to get this set up to be good!

From what we have understood, we can't use the Carillio rods since we are looking way over 1300bhp.

Is the Oliver rods the only way to go? Or, can we use some aluminium rods from some engine?
Do we have to notch them?

Since we are starting the build up on the short block, what is the best bearings to use on the crank/rods?

And, what clearance is recomended?

Our goal is to go under the Swedish/European record in Competion.

Car will run on pure Methanol and no IC.

The car is an Trans Am -89 with Chrome Molley Chassie, classified under 7.50.

Thank you all for your input and backup in our project!

I have a bit of experience running 100% methanol in the Buick V6. Blown up 2 so far. Still, I wouldn't consider burning anything else.

I'm using Electromotive's TEC II EMS for spark. They claim the spark is hotter with this system compared to others, but I'll bet any system would fire the engine fine. It's not as picky as some people think.

I have used Carillo rods and they will work fine, but will fold if you get into pre-ignition with your engine. I'm trying Oliver's in the next engine. Any rod would fold, I'm sure. Aluminum rods are out of the question with the Buick V6. The cam location is too low and you can't build enough meat into the rod using aluminum material. It would be fine for lower HP levels. You may consider having Oliver or Cunningham build you a custom rod for your anticipated HP level. An off the shelf rod may not be enough.

11.5 to 1 compression will work, but without an IC your boost will be very limited. Around 25 to 26 will be your danger point. My next engine will be 9.25 to one which should give me a boost limit of just over 30 psi. I do run a liquid IC also. Even methanol burning engines will benefit from good intercooling. If your going to run this car on a long course, lower the CR! Alky engines like to be cool. As the block builds up heat, it will put you closer to dangerous pre-ignition. You will get no pinging to warn you with alky. The tune up can be very touchy.

About the methanol contaminating the engine oil. It most surely will if you do not properly setup your crankcase ventilation. I use a Moroso vacuum pump to ventilate the block and it works fantastic. No more oil problems. I can now run heavy synthetic without worrying about having to change out the oil often.

 

[Alky V6]

Bill and you other ones that runs with high HP, what fuel pump/pumps do you use?

Any one use mechanical pump?

Looks like we need to use twin 160 injectors for methanol.

I'm using a single Weldon with a Kenne Bell voltage booster. Currently I'm only having to use the lowest setting on the booster.

You will definitely need to use two 160 lb injectors. Three per runner if your going to go for a max effort Stage II. I use a single 160 lb/hr injector per runner, in combination with a constant flow, electro/mechanical injection I designed.

I would go with a billet crank. I don't think your aware of the potential your combination will be capable of. With the right cam and turbo, you could easily get upwards of 1800 HP.

 

[Alky V6]

Hi....... naggy swede here again!

Can i use this damper http://forum.lazzat.se/attachment.php?attachmentid=6914 and bolt on the rest of the parts and crankshaft position sensor on it?

If not, does the 3.8 damper bolts right on?

If not, is there a special damper for stage2 that works with the crankshaft sensor?

Thanks!

BHJ dampners

 

[Lunkan]

Thanks for sharing Your thoughts.

Regarding the rods, our engine builder recommeded to use Oliver I-beams instead and go with a solid wrist pin. It would be more weight, but much more reliable.

Another question popped up, and that´s regarding throttle bodies. The plan, so far, is to use a single turbo setup. What would be a good sized TB for that? What about the Wilson 105mm along with a 90deg neck, or should we fab a sheetmetal plenum and custom TB´s?

Thanks
/A & U

 

[The Swede]

Bill used carrillo rods in his car and they took at least 1500hp. I like the olivers personally but...... anyone can use good parts and still destroy a good motor depending on poor assembly practices and lack of tuning. Anyway, about your crank, if you are going for extreme hp I would recommend a good billet crank like a crower or the one i have which is a cola. Both are excellent for high hp builds. I never thought forged cranks were bad though, does gnttype.org have any info on cranks that you could look up?

Stu, thanks for the info and your experience talk here!

Will have a look at gnttype and see what we can find there.