Frame swap

[dank GN]

okay I'm swapping frames in my Gn . What should I do to the frame besides bracing . I'm most likely going to put my cage in . I rear ended some poor lady with no license . And took out my front end

 

[Grumpy]

is the frame bent ?? Looks like ya went over it ?

 

[6cylboost]

Holy cow. What was she driving? A semi?

 

[dank GN]

Lol I hit the brakes the last sec and my front bumper dipped and hit the back of a Mitsubishi galant . Her back bumper fell off that about it . What size steel should I use to brace up the c channel ? My frame is bent so instead of taking it to a frame shop I got a frame for $200

 

[charlief1]

Clean and re-weld every seam on the new frame, then add a cross bar to the rear cross member and weld it to both the frame rails and the cross member. That will stiffen it up quite a bit. If you get adventurous you could also box the center, but that will throw you out of the class racing in most cases.

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

Judging by the way you drive....I would start with welding in some I-beam and poring concrete into the frame reinforced with some #5 re-bar.

Don't forget a used push bumper from a big-ass tow truck as well.

All kidding aside. I am sorry for your unfortunate situation. I would be nearly suicidal if or when it happens to me. I have tried to mentally prepare for something like this. But it still would be traumatic. Glad to here you just going to go to work on fixing it.

Notch the frame for sure. You can add in all the bracing and reinforcement a lot
easier with no body in the way.

 

[dank GN]

Craigslist $200

 

[dank GN]

What size steel should I use to weld up the C channel

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

I love seeing a bare frame like this! It's like a fresh canvas getting ready to be transferred into a Picasso!

How thick is the rest of the frame material? I would think boxing it with the same gauge would be sufficient. About an 1/8th?

 

[dank GN]

The frame is 12gauge or .105"

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

The frame is 12gauge or .105"

So 1/8th seems right to me. You don't wan't to add any more weight than you have to. It's the box that gives it rigidity. Not necessarily the gauge at that point.

 

[turbonut85]

Clean and re-weld every seam on the new frame, then add a cross bar to the rear cross member and weld it to both the frame rails and the cross member. That will stiffen it up quite a bit. If you get adventurous you could also box the center, but that will throw you out of the class racing in most cases.

....and you'll hate every second of street driving after doing this too....ask me how I know.

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

....and you'll hate every second of street driving after doing this too....ask me how I know.

Can't be worse than driving a mid 80's Corvette.

Put some 28" tall Hoosier Quick-Time Pros with 2o psi in them. And run tall front runners. Smoooooooooth ride! Just watch out around the turns.

 

[charlief1]

....and you'll hate every second of street driving after doing this too....ask me how I know.

Texas has smoother roads than the north Keith. I also went one step further than most. The top of the front cross member was cut out and lowered 3/8" and straightened to increase rigidity. Not something that's easy but it lowers the engine slightly for a better CG.

 

[2QUICK2B6]

id notch it while its out

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

Sister some steel plate around the mounting areas of the upper and lower control arms. You know, where the bolt passes through the frame and forward bushing of the arms. I've seen these bolt holes elongate due to the shock of a hard push and pull of big launch.Maybe even weld a sleeve in there.

Don't forget the frame notch.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

My frame:

 

[Chuck Leeper]

What size steel should I use to weld up the C channel

We use .125.

 

[dank GN]

That looks awesome !!

 

[chris kirk]

My frame:
View attachment 249595 View attachment 249596 View attachment 249597

I did the same with mine frame only I didn't notch mine. Actually, it was these pictures (your frame) where I got the idea from. Great pictures BTW. Thank you! Some of my frame mount openings were rusted out a little bit so I repaired and reinforced them. Then I had it powder coated. I found 1/8" thick steel washes on the internet that were the same size opening as the frame mount opening and welded them in. Worked out great. Later on I saw that Kirban sells similar ones. Your replacement frame looks pretty good. Better then mine did and my car was never driven and sat in a garage so you shouldn't have to do much if any repair work. Reweld it, box it in, reinforce the rear lower control arm mounts, put a cross section in over the rear, and put the rear brace on it. With new body bushings, it will feel like a different car. Good luck!