Front Upper Control Arm Bushing Job Cost?

[GNONYX]

Here is a You Tube Video That use a homemade control arm bushing removal tool that I used several years ago
I saw something similar to this on how to make to the tool, and if you still need to know what the measurement and size pipe, let me know and I will look for it in the garage.

 

[HighMileage]

Here is a You Tube Video That use a homemade control arm bushing removal tool that I used several years ago
I saw something similar to this on how to make to the tool, and if you still need to know what the measurement and size pipe, let me know and I will look for it in the garage.

Hmmm... You've made your own press out of ordinary stuff that can be bought at a Lowes or Home Depot.

You made that look easy.

Decisions,decisons.. What to do. New arms or replace bushings...


Thanks for the vid. Informative.

 

[GNONYX]

To be honest it wasn't easy since I didn't have a vise or something to hold the control arm in place in order to removal or install. Keep one think in mind as much as these cars are a PITA to work on, but I do enjoy knowing working on my car. Not only I learn how to remove and install control arm bushings, but a least I know what is being install in my car, and all the bolts and nuts are tighten by me.

Yes I got the materials from Home Depot

It all depends on how much money you want to spend, if you have the money and don't want to deal with the removal of the control arm bushing then buy the control arms. You could removal the control arms, find a local shop that will removal and install the new ones, take them home and re-install them back onto the car. Maybe a close board member can help you in your upstate NY area

 

[we4Mateo]

What should all be done to the lowers in front? Just ball joints? I haven't heard anyone mention much about that yet.

Thanks!

Anyone?

 

[charlief1]

Anyone?

Are you asking what you need to do to replace the bushings?

 

[we4Mateo]

Are you asking what you need to do to replace the bushings?

I'm asking if they even go bad without the exposure to the DP heat. I'm sure I can replace the bushings, but should I just do that or are aftermarket arms a good way to go and why?

TIA!

 

[charlief1]

I'm asking if they even go bad without the exposure to the DP heat. I'm sure I can replace the bushings, but should I just do that or are aftermarket arms a good way to go and why?

TIA!

Rubber starts rotting the minute it comes out of the mold. After 5 years it's considered unusable by industry standards. To give you an idea, would you drive on tires that were 25 years old? If not, then why are you driving on bushings that're that old or older.

 

[longball]

[quote="HighMileage, ]Thanks,but I'd get lost trying to find your place by myself. [/quote]

???????

Steve - it's 2 houses down the road from where you car has been stored the last 10 years! Anyway, the offer stands.............

 

[captndave737]

I rebuilt my front end last summer. I just did it on a time replacement kinda like changing oil only i do it every 100k not 3! Quite frankly the ONLY thing that showed any measurable wear was the right rear upper bushing which was pretty much non existent but everything got replaced anyway.

The uppers are very simple, the lowers not so much and you'll need either a spring compressor, one of the factory type tools that goes on a floor jack or a helper to do those. IMHO unless there is evidence to suggest you need it, just do the uppers. Maybe put in new ball joints too just for good measure.

 

[GNONYX]

This is to attached with thread #21 on the homemade control arm bushing tool
2"x4" gal. pipe
2" pipe cap
12" 3/8 threaded rod
large, medium, and small flat washers (missing one medium flat washer)

This homemade tool worked great removing the bushing, but I didn't have a vise or press machine to press the new bushing back on, so I reverse the order of the homemade tool, by placing one of the nut close to the end of the threaded rod, tighten the other end with other nut and washers against the new bushing, forcefully tighten the the same nut. When the new bushing is up against the "A" Frame, I used a hammer on the forcefully end of the threaded rod as to press the new bushing in.
My experience working with this tool, for the next time I use this I would definitely replace the 3/8" threaded rod and nuts with 5/6" threaded rod

 

[earlbrown]

Acme threads would be the way to fly on that tool. I have a feeling it still worked easier than my frozen bushings and framing hammer


or.... if you're just in a hurry, shotgun the entire assembly and drive to the alignment store....

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...mbly&vehicleIdSearch=7855&searchedFrom=header

 

[Nick Micale]

This is an interesting thread so I thought I would throw out a couple comments since I have done Skylark and Regal suspension work for many years.

Of course the 1986-7 turbo Buicks have a unique issue of cooking the upper rear control arm bushing often due to proximity of the DP, and it gets worse as the cars are modified.

On many of these cars I have just replaced only the rear bushing, as the other 3 upper bushings will last a much longer time.

Once the DP is removed, I can replace the bushing in about 20 minutes on the car by using an air chisel to drive out what is left of the old ones. they are then "pressed" in place using the existing nut and washer.

When to engine is out of the car, and I have many of these that I work on, it is then very easy to replace all 4 upper bushings which I usually do on a high mileage car.

As far as the lower front bushings, they generally are done if the springs are being replaced, or some other reason to have the suspension apart, like a restoration.