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Gauging interest in my Oil Booster Plates

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Coach

Bo ran away with my goat :(
Joined
Jun 9, 2015
Messages
330
Hello Guys,
Since I started posting again...I have received several massages about my Oil Booster plates. I am checking into material costs. If you are interested in purchasing one of them....or more then one, please post here.
Price before was $55 shipped. I will see how much stainless steel has gone up.

This is the thread about the plates. I only build them...I have not used one, but guys like Bison and Lee Thompson have. They can answer your questions.

Thank you
Coach

http://www.turbobuick.com/threads/coachs-booster-plate-step-by-step.332711/
 
Hi Coach, I would be interested in at least 1. Keep me in mind if they go into production. Thanks, Alan 856-305-3758
 
Hi Coach,
I'm in for one too.
Are these are the same as the ones that you made long ago?
Believe they were also de-magnetized?

thanks

dave
 
Hi Coach,
I'm in for one too.
Are these are the same as the ones that you made long ago?
Believe they were also de-magnetized?

thanks

dave
Yes. I'll make them from Stainless steel again.
I'm getting prices now.
 
Im in for one. Dont know that I need it but its one of those parts I would be willing to buy and stick on the shelf...

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Im in for one. Dont know that I need it but its one of those parts I would be willing to buy and stick on the shelf...

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That's kind of what I'm thinking too.


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Coach How about the AN -6 adapter for stock fuel rail are you making-selling them ?
 
Coach How about the AN -6 adapter for stock fuel rail are you making-selling them ?
I think Jack at racetronix has those now.... I thought I saw a post on FB a while back...


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Might join the list as well. I did just install a sealed power kit. Be nice to have an extra one.
 
Coach How about the AN -6 adapter for stock fuel rail are you making-selling them ?
Do you mean this piece I made for my car???the fuel line is -4AN
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Coach, the best material to use is cast iron. It is porus and will hold oil much better than SS or hard anodized aluminum. Look into it. I had a friend that made me a few of them many years ago. (RIP Dale Robertson). He knew more about metallurgy and extreme power than I ever will. Great friend to have spent thousands of hours with. Always a step (or three) ahead of me, even though I have build 5,000+ HP racing (gasoline) engines for a living.
 
Coach, the best material to use is cast iron. It is porus and will hold oil much better than SS or hard anodized aluminum. Look into it. I had a friend that made me a few of them many years ago. (RIP Dale Robertson). He knew more about metallurgy and extreme power than I ever will. Great friend to have spent thousands of hours with. Always a step (or three) ahead of me, even though I have build 5,000+ HP racing (gasoline) engines for a living.
Thank you. I agree on the cast holding oil much better, but what these are doing is creating a wear surface for the oil pump gears. The Kenne Bell plates were alum and the slurry of metal on the bottoms of the gears caused a sort of lapping compound and it ate into the plate, and before you knew it...you had a big clearance issue and pressure drop. By switiching to 304 stainless...and advising the guys to get their gears "de-magged" before installing them...it greatly reduced the slurry and they wear much better. There are plates that I have made about 7 years ago, and there is still no wear on the plate.
The Melling kit has an iron wear plate, but I have no source for finding 0.125 iron plate in sheets that I can machine. the Melling plate is at least .25 and cast iron is very fragile. I have never seen a sheet of cast iron or plates of cast iron for sale. I would have to carve it from a block and that creates a whole different array of processes.
I do not doubt it would work, but for cost and ease of machining and availability...I think the stainless is the best option.
Thank you for your post. I know from reading your stuff for years...you know what your talking about.
 
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