Originally posted by GNVAIR
Any updates on this yet Kendall? I am axious to hear how it works. Let us know.
I have not welded the back side yet...maybe this week.
I have been on travel again, and I spent 6 hours last Thurs. night trying to make mandrels for the deck milling machine only to screw up and have to throw my work piece away...grrr.
You really appreciate the prices people get for precision tools and fixtures when you try to make one.
Originally posted by Radius Kid
Yeah,shake a leg will ya'.We're alll kinda anxious here.
Well, send me a few thousand in development $ and I'll get right on it!
Originally posted by Geno
Got any picture of the inside after welding? How flat did it stay ? I might have to make one myself because it makes alot of sense
It stayed very flat so far...the test will be when I weld the back. Geno, if you make one, it'll probably be better looking than mine and make me jealous.
Originally posted by turbodave231
Kendall,
A couple ideas for you: The 3.8 fwd VIN B&3 engines 86-88 used a gerotor pump with a two flat drive. They shared the same timing chain, and cam gear as the VIN 7 engine. If you can't use the whole crank gear, maybe you could machine off the gear and shorten the nose on the balancer (use just the flat portion of the part.
These same engines used a cam sensor in the front cover. A magnet was bolted to one of the Cam gear bolts and passed by the sensor to trip the Hall effect switch. This style cam sensor will work with our application Vin 3&B used the same ignition module, and coil pack (in some applications). They also used the type II delco sys too.
Maybe you could eliminate the stock cam sensor as well??!!!!
What are you planning for controlling cam walk?
Very cool project, wish I could TIG weld!!
Dave
Dave, those are good points! I have been wondering if there was a motor that used that pump setup without using a balance shaft. I will check out the timing chain/gear setup and see if I can just use it. I am going to try and eliminate the cam sensor if possible, maybe with a 2 sensor crank hub (if TurboTR ever checks his out for me...
). The cam walk will be controlled with a torrington bearing setup (billet roller).
Originally posted by Radius Kid
Interesting.I was just wondering to myself how Kendall maintains alignment of the CS bore in the top half of the front cover when he welds it.The above would seem to bypass the whole deal altogether
The cam sensor bore in the top half is unchanged from stock...it was bolted down to the block and used the alignment pins for location. I'd still like to get rid of the cam sensor if possible though.
I have too many things to get done for one guy with a full time job who travels, 2 kids, a wife in school, and a 2 car garage.