Getting ready for the V8 swap

T

TurboTerry87gn

Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2003
The V6 has been fun and has gone 6.455 in thre 1/8 but it's time to upgrade. I want to run in my local True 10.5 and that would be pushing the limits of the 109 block so I got to do it.

I cant run a LS based engine because of class rules, so I'll be building a Gen 1 SBC.

Questions:
I cant run a sheet metal intake so I was considering the Edelbrock efi manifold with a wilson 90. Any other suggestions on manifolds?

I plan on running a manual steerring box any suggestion here would also be helpfull.

Good source for cam for the turbo motor.


Here is my plan for now.
SBC Iron eagle block BBC cam bearings, 400 mains
Callies magnum crank
Oliver billet rods
AFR heads (rules say 23 degree heads)
76mm Turbo or bigger with an insert(rules say 76mm max size measured at inducer ) Possibly one of the new bullseye power turbos.
FAST with traction control
Mabe RJC mega cooler. (rules say air to air only)
must run a MT 28x10.5x15 tire.



All part for the V6 will be for sale soon.
FAST ecu, Champion heads ported by champion extra bolt holes for stage 2, short block roller motor, ATR headers, ATR intercooler, Champion lower port matched intake, kenny bell upper and 70mm TB,95lbhr injectors. All misc. parts.
 
That manifold is the same im using. I bought it from Dusty and he went 8.30s with it. Power Products is now making a knock off of it too.

I use a PTE elbow with a Wilson 90mmTB. Depending on which way the Elbow faces , you may not be able to get an IAC installed without an adapter. But if you use the RJC intercooler, the TB should face foward and it should fit.

How big of a motor are you building ?If you are staying at 406-410 and below the Little M can be used for less money.

As far as the steering , you can use a S-10 steering box, or if allowed a TRZ rack and pinion kit from Hartline Performance.

The cam,.... well get ready for many different opinions on this one. You can use Petty, Strezo, cam motion ect. I went with comp cams as they worked with me thru the design.
 
The S10 steering box will work. I'm putting a N/A SB in my GN right now and have the TRZ R&P. It's causing me a ton of grief with my headers but that shouldn't be a problem with turbo headers. I almost wish I had of just used the S10 box.
 
For those rules the Little M will work fine without having to use the spread pan rail.

With the 377 you'll want a turbo with a pretty large turbine and a/r size. Since it's only a 76mm you'll want to keep backpressure as low as possible to help with the power. You'll be lucky to make 20# of boost at 7k+ rpm. I'd call Precision or any other dealer you would deal with on the turbo. They could run an 80-88mm wheel with a 76 tip but the rules specify the 76mm 1/16 from the compressor wheel so your stuck with the small 76 inlet.

You may be looking at the GT45 or 47 garrett stuff or the Y2K 80 or 82mm with a 76 tip. I don't know about the BW stuff but a friend has had great luck with S480 and has been 5.6's so far.
 
If I were buying all new block get the 4.125 bore (siamesed). The 377 is a good pick. I would look for a great head that flows big like 230cfm.
 
I would get a BW unit from Forced Inductions. A SX or ST75 would be perfect on that, with a 1.01a/r hotside and their race cover. That turbo can easily support 1000hp and has incredible spool times. I also agree to go with the little M block to save cash. You will save enough througout the build to splurge on some better bolt-on parts.
Also going with the TRZ rack would be great if the rules allow. Its 30lbs lighter than a S10 setup, and provides a ton of clearance in front of the motor for crossovers and stuff.
Gary
 
For a cam we have really good luck with Duttweiler.
He has built and dynoed several SBCs that make over 2200HP.
805-659-3648

Steve Petty is also not a bad choice, he did a nice cam for Shawn's pro
street car.
Welcome to Pro Line Racing

I have never use Dan for a v8 cam but have used several of his v6 grinds.
Home

For the turbo you should talk to a couple different people.
Jose at Forced Inductions is your man if you want a Borg Warner based unit.
Borg Warner & TurboDriven

You may want to talk to Harry at Precision if he could do one of his new "billet wheels" in a 76 for you. If you can make sure you get the t6 turbine housing.
The t4 is going to give you back pressure as you turn it up!
Precision Turbo & Engine - Turbocharger, Intercooler, Fuel Injector, Performance Parts & more!
 
Not to hijack, but Im interested in some of your V6 parts, PM me with some prices ;) ...
 
Thanks

Thanks for the input, I will be researching the Little-m, any info is appreciated as there are no competitive turbo cars in this class locally that I know of, and I would like to be the first to make these nitrous cars take a second look.


As far as the parts for the turbo v6 I will post them as soom as I can get every thing dissasymbled and inspected and get an idea of the going price.
 
Little-m

Now I see the reson I didn't pick the little-m. Its not offered in the tall deck so I can run the longer rod to decrease side loading of the pistion.
 
You have plenty of room in the standard deck to run a 6.0 rod with a 3.75 stroke which is as long a rod as you'd want. Since your limited to a 76 you better make as much power on motor as you can, so forget the 8.5-1 compression. You want at least 9.5-1. I'd go higher than that. I still use a 3.75 stroke and 6.0 rod in a Little M and my heads are only 45cc. Piston design will be a breeze with the larger 64cc chamber.
 
chevyII said:
If I were buying all new block get the 4.125 bore (siamesed). The 377 is a good pick. I would look for a great head that flows big like 230cfm.
Click to expand...

Do you mean 320cfm???? A 23* head will flow 230 on the exhaust. All Pro makes a raised runner 23* which will flow near 370 on the intake but it's way more than he needs. With a 76 he'll be lucky to make much more tha 20# of boost.

Who ever wrote the rules don't like turbo cars.
 
Thanks Dusty

I was just thinking that the longer rod ratio would increase efficency since I'm trying to squeeze out all the power I can.

I read a link in the past about higher static commpression ratio with the turbo v6 in one of the classes tso,tsm...since there regulated to 24psi and I was trying to figure out what compression they were running on the v6's to get them to run so fast within the rules.
 
The longer rod isnt really gonna do sh*t compared to the money you save that could be spent elsewhere. Ive run all kinds of combos through dyno-sim, and it only makes a couple HP difference. I mean, dusty is making what, 1200hp? or more? i dunno. But there are way too many people over the 1000hp mark, alot even with 5.565" (400) rods.
Another thing with the compression raito. Youre gonna be running race gas anyway, and a 76mm turbo is going to run out of compressor pretty fast on that caliber of motor, so you might as well make as much power N/A as you can. I vote for 9.5-9.75:1, Little M block, and a 5.7 rod. That will make you plenty of power and save alot of money for the valvetrain.
Gary
 
I made 1400 or so, enough to go 170mph in a 3550# car with 3.75 stroke, 6 inch rods and off the shelf JE pistons in a Little M. That was around 135mph to the 1/8th. The same motor has gone 144mph to the 1/8th so far with more left with the same stroke and rod which puts it in the 1600 range. You can use the 6.0 rod and be fine with the larger chambers or use the shorter rod if you think you may want a more serious head down the road which may have small chambers. You only want to buy the crank once. If you buy it for a 6.0 rod now and want to go to a 5.7 later, the crank counterweights will have to be cut down.

Our local class was cut to a 88mm limit at one time. The leading turbo car was running 11-1 compression with the 88 on C-16 gas. I don't know that I'd go that high but definately in the 10-10.5 range so you don't have to pull out as much timing. I have run 30# of boost with 9.8-1 already with no issues.
 
Dusty Bradford said:
I made 1400 or so, enough to go 170mph in a 3550# car with 3.75 stroke, 6 inch rods and off the shelf JE pistons in a Little M. That was around 135mph to the 1/8th. The same motor has gone 144mph to the 1/8th so far with more left with the same stroke and rod which puts it in the 1600 range. You can use the 6.0 rod and be fine with the larger chambers or use the shorter rod if you think you may want a more serious head down the road which may have small chambers. You only want to buy the crank once. If you buy it for a 6.0 rod now and want to go to a 5.7 later, the crank counterweights will have to be cut down.

Our local class was cut to a 88mm limit at one time. The leading turbo car was running 11-1 compression with the 88 on C-16 gas. I don't know that I'd go that high but definately in the 10-10.5 range so you don't have to pull out as much timing. I have run 30# of boost with 9.8-1 already with no issues.
Click to expand...

Dang Dusty, giving away the farm with all the info.
Just kidding thanks for the help!
 
The missing part is the camshaft:wink: That's the key.....You have to have someone like Pro-Line do the entire engine or pay someone some $$$ to get you the correct cam. You won't get an "off the shelf" cam from Comp to make it work and just calling most companies get's you a generic turbo cam. PM me when you get to that point.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
  • Locked
  • Sticky
TSM 2024 Official Rules
Replies
0
Views
595
Tweeked6
T
G
WTT Built Shortblock for complete Roller Motor
Replies
2
Views
835
greeneyegi
G
X
Need rec on new cam and turbo
Replies
11
Views
2K
TType85
TType85
sackracing
  • Locked
  • Sticky
2022 RULES
Replies
0
Views
1K
sackracing
sackracing
T
1986 Buick GN T-Top.
Replies
3
Views
2K
TURBOPOWERED68
T
Top