GNS LED issues

[garyk1970]

Thanks Scot......i will add more later....i worked till late......

 

[turbohh]

Now I'm having troubles still with my GN, LOL... I just installed my front LED kit (I already had the rear kit installed and it worked fine). My kit was one of the original run that didn't have the two resistors included. I received them a few weeks later, but with the faulty instructions (to install them in the front). As I interpret the previous posts, I have run each resistor one side to ground, and the other side to either the green or yellow RT and LF rear taillight wires, and I have installed both of the low-resistance flashers (one on the fuse block, and the other by the console). All the lights flash correctly when neither the headlights or park lights are on, but as soon as either is turned on (park or head) the front signal lights flash right, but the rear lights won't flash correctly... if you switch from right to left, all the rear lights come on, but the fronts keep working correctly. This only occurs when the park lights or the head lights are turned on, and the turn signal stalk is switched for a right or left turn. I have not yet dealt with the small lamps up top next to the headlights yet. What have I missed??? Scot, someone please advise...
Sincerely,
John Alvarez, Turbohh

 

[garyk1970]

As far as I remember the extra resistors ARE NOT NEEDED....the wrong info has been giving out here.the electronic flasher will see the load and flash the lights.can you send me a video of whats happing,and ill be happy to help you fix them. garyk1970@yahoo.com

 

[scot w.]

Now I'm having troubles still with my GN, LOL... I just installed my front LED kit (I already had the rear kit installed and it worked fine). My kit was one of the original run that didn't have the two resistors included. I received them a few weeks later, but with the faulty instructions (to install them in the front). As I interpret the previous posts, I have run each resistor one side to ground, and the other side to either the green or yellow RT and LF rear taillight wires, and I have installed both of the low-resistance flashers (one on the fuse block, and the other by the console). All the lights flash correctly when neither the headlights or park lights are on, but as soon as either is turned on (park or head) the front signal lights flash right, but the rear lights won't flash correctly... if you switch from right to left, all the rear lights come on, but the fronts keep working correctly. This only occurs when the park lights or the head lights are turned on, and the turn signal stalk is switched for a right or left turn. I have not yet dealt with the small lamps up top next to the headlights yet. What have I missed??? Scot, someone please advise...
Sincerely,
John Alvarez, Turbohh

John,

Like (garyk1970) mentioned, a video would be nice so we can see whats going on here... Please give me a call and I will help you over the phone!

..

 

[Royal-T-Ltd]

Now I'm having troubles still with my GN, LOL... I just installed my front LED kit (I already had the rear kit installed and it worked fine). My kit was one of the original run that didn't have the two resistors included. I received them a few weeks later, but with the faulty instructions (to install them in the front). As I interpret the previous posts, I have run each resistor one side to ground, and the other side to either the green or yellow RT and LF rear taillight wires, and I have installed both of the low-resistance flashers (one on the fuse block, and the other by the console). All the lights flash correctly when neither the headlights or park lights are on, but as soon as either is turned on (park or head) the front signal lights flash right, but the rear lights won't flash correctly... if you switch from right to left, all the rear lights come on, but the fronts keep working correctly. This only occurs when the park lights or the head lights are turned on, and the turn signal stalk is switched for a right or left turn. I have not yet dealt with the small lamps up top next to the headlights yet. What have I missed??? Scot, someone please advise...
Sincerely,
John Alvarez, Turbohh

Check your connections AND make sure you have a GOOD ground on the rear.... those resistors should have cured the issue you are having

aaron

 

[turbohh]

Problem fixed.... Talked to Scot W, and followed his advice to ground the side marker/turn signal lights as described on page 3 of this thread, and now everything works like it's supposed to... . For the record, I'm not using any resistors front or rear, grounded the upper set of front signal lights, and am using two low-resistance turn signal flashers. Thanks to Scot, and all who replied with advice!!
Sincerely,
John A, Turbohh

 

[uneek1976]

After reading this post you got me thinking so I decided to go out to the shop and see what was causing this issue.

Keep in mind this issue ONLY happens with our Front & Rear LED's installed on the Buick's!!!

I contacted my good friend from here (GaryK1970) and he explained to me what the function of those wires do and he nailed it. It seems the way these cars were wired from the factory this little front Side marker/turn signal 194 bulb actually flashes Opposite of the other front turn signals and because of that it causes a problem with the interior Turn signal indicators. Gary will chime in i'm sure but to solve this problem of the turn signal indicators staying on I removed the headlight bezels and removed the small 194 bulb from the side marker light, then I cut the black wire going to each one (Indicators in dash are now Out).... This will make those bulbs inoperable but if you then take a small piece of black wire and attach it to the bulb end and run it to a good body/chassis ground the bulb will light up when the head lights are on, the interior turn signal indicators will operate properly now...

NOTE: The ONLY downfall to doing this is the small side marker/turn light will only remain lit while the lights are on, It WILL NOT FLASH anymore because it was removed from the harness and it's function...Gary & I plan to keep doing some testing on this silly little side marker/turn signal light to hopefully get it to operate properly without having to completely disable it's function..

Gary K,
Thank you for all your help, advice and knowledge

So is this still the only way to fix the dash lights or is there another option?

 

[scot w.]

uneek1976 = So is this still the only way to fix the dash lights or is there another option?

Yes simply because the upper front set of marker/turn signals operate opposite of the lower ones from the factory and screws up the signal to the lower LED lights. Simply do what we recommended above and you will be fine.

 

[uneek1976]

uneek1976 = So is this still the only way to fix the dash lights or is there another option?

Yes simply because the upper front set of marker/turn signals operate opposite of the lower ones from the factory and screws up the signal to the lower LED lights. Simply do what we recommended above and you will be fine.

Thanks to all of you guys for the tip on the fix for the dash lights. Everything works great now!

 

[scot w.]

Thanks to all of you guys for the tip on the fix for the dash lights. Everything works great now!

Glad to help...

 

[uneek1976]

Ok so now I have another issue, now I have maybe four Leds on the pass side rear taillights that stays on all the time with the car running or not, and with the lights on or off. I did'nt have this problem before I installed the front Led boards. Has anyone run into something like this? I need some help with this one!

 

[scot w.]

Ok so now I have another issue, now I have maybe four Leds on the pass side rear taillights that stays on all the time with the car running or not, and with the lights on or off. I did'nt have this problem before I installed the front Led boards. Has anyone run into something like this? I need some help with this one!

I had someone else at BG come to me with the same problem, it is a back feeding issue. I gave him spaghetti engineering's contact info and I have not heard back to see what it actually was or how it was solved. All warranty related problems must go through them so the best thing to do is contact them and they will definitely get you taken care of. Just one of the reasons why we went with an American based company located in NJ instead of CHINA!
PM sent with contact info.

 

[DavzGN]

Of course it may be tough getting hold of them right now in NJ. Might have seen something on the news about it

 

[dsapper]

Just an FYI I've done alot of LED light setups from spaghetti, the turbo buick front and rear, 72 camaro and 69 camaro. Every issue I've ever had was resolved by going overboard with grounds. I've never used a flasher relay either.

I do a ground strap from the engine to the body, engine to the frame, frame to the body, then another one on the frame in the rear to the body. Make sure they are all ohmed out with a multimeter and any grounds from the leds are also ohmed out.

 

[scot w.]

Of course it may be tough getting hold of them right now in NJ. Might have seen something on the news about it

Might also be because they are at SEMA in Las Vegas!

 

[49-blues]

Can you send me a new copy of the correct installation instructions- I bought three sets of these digital and have only started installing them. My email: mytquick87@ yahoo.com- thanks. I want to get it right from the get go.

 

[regalracer1987]

has anyone found away to hook these up and keep the lil side marker functional

 

[turbo nasty]

UPDATE .......A FIX HAS BEEN FOUND TO GET THE SIDE MARKERS TO WORK LIKE STOCK WHEN USING BOTH LED KITS.

I just picked up a set of the Front LED markers and already have the Rear LED tails and put an electronic flasher in both locations and did NOT want to cut my harness and ground the wires per the instructions to have either have the marker on the headlight bezel be a running light or a blinker when you have both front and rear LED kits.

My issue was where when the running lights were on and the either turn signal selected the rear light on that side would go solid and not blink (Fronts and dash indicator would). Also, the hazards would blink in the front just slightly/barely changing intensity and the rears would go solid on both sides and the dash indicators would blink OK.

Spoke with garyk1970 and we bounced some ideas back and forth and he recommended I pull the side headlight bezel marker 194 light bulbs OUT and try without them...... and WALLA it worked.

The way the stock wig wag blinking between the bumper and side bezel marker works when the lights are on and the blinker(s) are activated was the issue and the processors in the read LED's didn't jive with how the circuits work.

How the stock system works...simplified.........or at least in my brain how to explain LOL.

When the running lights are on and blinker or hazards are requested the two circuits (running lights and haz/blinker) both circuits swap control back and forth as (running light then blinker/hazard then back and then repeat).

As the swap of control happens between the two.

The current goes back and forth through the incandescent filament in a regular 194 bulb between as it jogs/wig wags back and forth between which is controlling it.

Not exact electronic operation.... but a basic simple way of explaining it to get the jist of the operation when I say "through the element"... with the lights on and the blinkers requested...picture someone having two glasses with one full and one empty (both glasses hold the same amount).

Hold two (1. running lights 2. blinker/hazard) glasses of water... one empty (running lights controlling circuit ) and one full (blinker/hazards controlling circuit) and pouring one into the other (blinker requested and wig wag flashing between the bumper and side marker) and then repeating back and forth and then when blinker is off the last pour was enough to put both glasses back at the starting point where the side and bumper lights are on solid.

The notion of the water back and forth is the control of the circuits jogging between the running lights and the blinker/hazards "through the element in the 194 bulb).

OK confused enough? LOL

The LED tails have a lil processor in them that's load sensitive and the back and forth flashing of the lights "wig wagging" "through the element" causes it to freak out and not work as advertised.

To further explain the element inside the 194 incandescent bulb will allow current to flow either way (not polarity sensitive) and is just a dumb load and will light as long as it has a hot and ground...no matter the direction its connected to.

So how does removing the Side marker light fix the rear LED's from going solid and not blinking/scrolling with running lights on and the blinker/hazards requested??

With the side marker 194 removed the two glasses of water pouring back and forth into one another scenario isn't happening anymore.

Instead, now its simply the two glasses of water that are just being moved physically in their place one placed where the other was and then reversed vs pouring back and forth. Your getting the same result just not pouring (going through the element).

So there is no element to go through its just one and then the other.

With lights off and key on the blinkers (front and rear) works fine as the flasher relay blinks the lights without having the running light circuit to have to wig wag back and forth (pour the water between glasses) with the two circuits (running light and blinker).

Recap....pulling the side marker incandescent bulb out allows the system to work correctly but the side marker isn't working (its removed to eliminate the wigwag). That explains how to get the circuit to work without the rear LED's going solid when the running lights are on and the blinker or hazards are requested.

All of this lengthy explanation and now to get to how to get to how to get the LED front and rear to work with the side markers like stock.

I mentioned polarity sensitive bulbs and the regular 194 incandescent are not.

If you get the LED 194 style bulb that allows current to flow and stop completely (not all LED style bulbs do this) and then flow the other direction vs. the pouring water glass scenario then you can have the side markers work like the factory setup by placing the proper style 194 bulbs in them.

I bought a Sylvania 194 bright white bulb (like 12 bucks each...stupid price) just to try and it worked. The bulbs didn't look good in the markers IMO (too bright) and i'm working on sourcing another style.

Spoke with Scott and Spaghetti engineering about it and we are working on a fix when we get the proper style LED 194 bulbs nailed down.

But for now just some info on what was found so folks can maybe try it out and get the full functionality like stock back and I will post up what I finalize on.

A bit long winded and not the easiest to read (did it in a hurry) but just trying to help out with a lil something.

 

[wb's87]

UPDATE .......A FIX HAS BEEN FOUND TO GET THE SIDE MARKERS TO WORK LIKE STOCK WHEN USING BOTH LED KITS.

I just picked up a set of the Front LED markers and already have the Rear LED tails and put an electronic flasher in both locations and did NOT want to cut my harness and ground the wires per the instructions to have either have the marker on the headlight bezel be a running light or a blinker when you have both front and rear LED kits.

My issue was where when the running lights were on and the either turn signal selected the rear light on that side would go solid and not blink (Fronts and dash indicator would). Also, the hazards would blink in the front just slightly/barely changing intensity and the rears would go solid on both sides and the dash indicators would blink OK.

Spoke with garyk1970 and we bounced some ideas back and forth and he recommended I pull the side headlight bezel marker 194 light bulbs OUT and try without them...... and WALLA it worked.

The way the stock wig wag blinking between the bumper and side bezel marker works when the lights are on and the blinker(s) are activated was the issue and the processors in the read LED's didn't jive with how the circuits work.

How the stock system works...simplified.........or at least in my brain how to explain LOL.

When the running lights are on and blinker or hazards are requested the two circuits (running lights and haz/blinker) both circuits swap control back and forth as (running light then blinker/hazard then back and then repeat).

As the swap of control happens between the two.

The current goes back and forth through the incandescent filament in a regular 194 bulb between as it jogs/wig wags back and forth between which is controlling it.

Not exact electronic operation.... but a basic simple way of explaining it to get the jist of the operation when I say "through the element"... with the lights on and the blinkers requested...picture someone having two glasses with one full and one empty (both glasses hold the same amount).

Hold two (1. running lights 2. blinker/hazard) glasses of water... one empty (running lights controlling circuit ) and one full (blinker/hazards controlling circuit) and pouring one into the other (blinker requested and wig wag flashing between the bumper and side marker) and then repeating back and forth and then when blinker is off the last pour was enough to put both glasses back at the starting point where the side and bumper lights are on solid.

The notion of the water back and forth is the control of the circuits jogging between the running lights and the blinker/hazards "through the element in the 194 bulb).

OK confused enough? LOL

The LED tails have a lil processor in them that's load sensitive and the back and forth flashing of the lights "wig wagging" "through the element" causes it to freak out and not work as advertised.

To further explain the element inside the 194 incandescent bulb will allow current to flow either way (not polarity sensitive) and is just a dumb load and will light as long as it has a hot and ground...no matter the direction its connected to.

So how does removing the Side marker light fix the rear LED's from going solid and not blinking/scrolling with running lights on and the blinker/hazards requested??

With the side marker 194 removed the two glasses of water pouring back and forth into one another scenario isn't happening anymore.

Instead, now its simply the two glasses of water that are just being moved physically in their place one placed where the other was and then reversed vs pouring back and forth. Your getting the same result just not pouring (going through the element).

So there is no element to go through its just one and then the other.

With lights off and key on the blinkers (front and rear) works fine as the flasher relay blinks the lights without having the running light circuit to have to wig wag back and forth (pour the water between glasses) with the two circuits (running light and blinker).

Recap....pulling the side marker incandescent bulb out allows the system to work correctly but the side marker isn't working (its removed to eliminate the wigwag). That explains how to get the circuit to work without the rear LED's going solid when the running lights are on and the blinker or hazards are requested.

All of this lengthy explanation and now to get to how to get to how to get the LED front and rear to work with the side markers like stock.

I mentioned polarity sensitive bulbs and the regular 194 incandescent are not.

If you get the LED 194 style bulb that allows current to flow and stop completely (not all LED style bulbs do this) and then flow the other direction vs. the pouring water glass scenario then you can have the side markers work like the factory setup by placing the proper style 194 bulbs in them.

I bought a Sylvania 194 bright white bulb (like 12 bucks each...stupid price) just to try and it worked. The bulbs didn't look good in the markers IMO (too bright) and i'm working on sourcing another style.

Spoke with Scott and Spaghetti engineering about it and we are working on a fix when we get the proper style LED 194 bulbs nailed down.

But for now just some info on what was found so folks can maybe try it out and get the full functionality like stock back and I will post up what I finalize on.

A bit long winded and not the easiest to read (did it in a hurry) but just trying to help out with a lil something.

Any update on this problem. I purchased complete front and rear sets from Scott last winter. I am just now beginning the install.

 

[turbo nasty]

As of now the only ones I have tried is the sylvania ones at Auto Zone they are expensive tho but will work. This has been on the back burner as i have been focused on getting my engine repaired.

Here is the ones that I tried that worked but is a bit bright. My intent is to eventually get a amber one.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa.../N-iidqmZ9cjcl?itemIdentifier=449375_0_18268_