Got a new turbo, but have some simple questions

[wildcard]

1. What is the torque setting for the four bolts that hold the exhaust elbow.

2. Adjusting the actuator is obvious, but how do I know where to adjust the actuator to my desired boost?

 

[Slow91z]

1 tight

2 hold the puck closed and set the rod about a half a hole short...make a pass and tighten accordingly.

 

[RatFink]

1 tight

2 hold the puck closed and set the rod about a half a hole short...make a pass and tighten accordingly.

Good advice. What I was thinking. Actually never heard anyone speak on the amount of torque to apply.
I've swapped several times, I really never noticed a problem. Good luck and happy turboing.

 

[jasjamz]

Put anti-seize on the downpipe bolts and tighten them up...nice and snug. Not crazy tight. Re-check them after two heat cycles.

 

[bison]

One thing i like to do with the turbos I run on my car us use thread inserts in the turbine housing. Then i use stainless fasteners and the threads never oxidize and the bolts never seize in the threads. If you work on your car often and remove the turbo a lot it's really nice to have the thread inserts in there and it only takes 10 minutes to do them with a drill press.

 

[wildcard]

1 tight

2 hold the puck closed and set the rod about a half a hole short...make a pass and tighten accordingly.

1. easy enough

2. currently the "puck" as its called is closed and the rod is adjusted to that point. The is staying mostly stock for now, but I wanted to turn up the boost from the factory setting up about 2-3 psi. Just enough to see alot of improvement, but I'm not ready to rebuild the top half of my engine so I don't have to worry about blowing gaskets under high boost. I guess I was trying to see how much I should turn the actuator rod beyond what I have it at currently.

 

[~JM~]

Do you have a boost guage?

You should pick one up if you don't have one. I use a test guage that I tape to the windshield. Adjust your wastegate actuater to 16#'s on your gauge and start tuning from there.

~JM~

 

[wildcard]

No boost gauge yet. Drove the car today with the actuator at its lowest setting with suprising results. I will wait to adjust it until I have the gauge.

 

[ZNix]

Do you have a Scanmaster?

 

[TurboBob]

No boost gauge yet.

...... with suprising results. I will wait to adjust it until I have the gauge.

Good surprises or bad surprises......?

A boost gauge is the first purchase with these cars.

Bob

 

[wildcard]

I have a scan master, but whats that got to do with my turbo. I don't remember seeing anything on there for the turbo.

Do you have a Scanmaster?

 

[ZNix]

I just wanted to make sure you had a way to keep track of knock. I hate to see people blow up their cars by not watching for knock. Not having a boost gauge had me wondering if you had one.

Nix

 

[wildcard]

I just wanted to make sure you had a way to keep track of knock. I hate to see people blow up their cars by not watching for knock. Not having a boost gauge had me wondering if you had one.

Nix

Oh, thanks! I plan on getting a boost gauge, but have to take small steps since the wife just had our baby girl. My wife likes my car and I want to keep it that way...lol

 

[usetaboost]

A boost guage isn't going to keep knock away. You need some type of scan tool. If you are a little too poor to drop 250 for a scanmaster you can always go the winaldl route. Plus you can use it on other 0bd1 vehicles and do other things that the scanmaster can not. I used it for a while, it's a good product and free, just gotta buy the cord for it or make one. You can also log with it too. And I like the fact that all the info is on one screen and you can bring up an extra window that reads tps, 02 and speedo

 

[Royal-T-Ltd]

One thing i like to do with the turbos I run on my car us use thread inserts in the turbine housing. Then i use stainless fasteners and the threads never oxidize and the bolts never seize in the threads. If you work on your car often and remove the turbo a lot it's really nice to have the thread inserts in there and it only takes 10 minutes to do them with a drill press.

Bison, do you use the inserts in the DP side and the header side to replace the studs? also do you have a link or pics of what they are... i kinda have an idea but want to be sure... i get tired of the bolts seizing in the turbine housing too and have even f'd up some expensive hardware... i use anti seize but with those temps it just turns to powder.

aaron

 

[bison]

Bison, do you use the inserts in the DP side and the header side to replace the studs? also do you have a link or pics of what they are... i kinda have an idea but want to be sure... i get tired of the bolts seizing in the turbine housing too and have even f'd up some expensive hardware... i use anti seize but with those temps it just turns to powder.

aaron

I have them on the dp side. You have to be sure they start straight. Sometimes you need to shorten one or two of them