Guess my horsepower

I use to run 103's in my motor but something happened to make me switch(cant remember exactly). I have been running ngk tr6 gapped .028 since and not a single issue with these plugs for 5+ yrs. Can you add a kb boost a spark?
 
I believe the Autolite 23's are for iron heads only. The 103's have a much longer threaded portion for aluminum heads. My plug wires are Magnacore 10mm.
 
I use to run 103's in my motor but something happened to make me switch(cant remember exactly). I have been running ngk tr6 gapped .028 since and not a single issue with these plugs for 5+ yrs. Can you add a kb boost a spark?
I wish I knew the limit of the stock ignition module and coil setup. Surely I haven't reached the limit of what this dog can do. If need be, I'll upgrade the ignition. Those Ngk plugs sure look nice.
 
The next step down from the tr6 to a colder plug is the ngk bre7 or something like that. Hard to beat the ngk's at $2 a plug.
 
I've read a few older threads this morning. Looks like some folks run the Autolite AR 3933 These are like the plugs I've run in my naturally-aspirated racing engines. I notice that these are the gasket-style. I read somewhere that the aluminum GN1 heads can accept either the gasket style, or the tapered seat style. Anybody have experience with these plugs?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/frm-ar3933
 
I wish I knew the limit of the stock ignition module and coil setup. Surely I haven't reached the limit of what this dog can do. If need be, I'll upgrade the ignition. Those Ngk plugs sure look nice.
What would an upgrade look like, parts wise? You get it figured out?
 
What would an upgrade look like, parts wise? You get it figured out?

The abilities of the stock ignition system are fine; I've seen cars go 150mph with them. It's reliability that suffers with stock ignition. The newer stuff is hotter and you can open up the plug gaps some, but you may not go any faster. You'll just go fast more often.
 
"The newer stuff" thats what I'm interested in. What parts would be considered an upgrade? Reliability is certainly just as important as going fast.
 
"The newer stuff" thats what I'm interested in. What parts would be considered an upgrade? Reliability is certainly just as important as going fast.

Bailey TR6 ignition module and Silverado 4.3L coil pack. Way more reliable and over the counter coil pack. Built in 2 step, rev limiter, and you can run COP ignition if you want to spend the extra money vs the Silverado V6 coil pack. Fits in the stock location.
 
Bailey TR6 ignition module and Silverado 4.3L coil pack. Way more reliable and over the counter coil pack. Built in 2 step, rev limiter, and you can run COP ignition if you want to spend the extra money vs the Silverado V6 coil pack. Fits in the stock location.
What year?
 
I recently had the popping/missing issue when I up'ed my boost to 18psi... Got new wires, ignition/coil and plugs problem solved.

P.S Purchase order is at the shop and I'm out of town until Sunday.
 
I recently had the popping/missing issue when I up'ed my boost to 18psi... Got new wires, ignition/coil and plugs problem solved.

P.S Purchase order is at the shop and I'm out of town until Sunday.
Had the same problem. Ignition coil replaced. Problem solved

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk
 
I recently had the popping/missing issue when I up'ed my boost to 18psi... Got new wires, ignition/coil and plugs problem solved.

P.S Purchase order is at the shop and I'm out of town until Sunday.
Had the same problem. Ignition coil replaced. Problem solved

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk

That usually does solve it, but for how long? I was going through a coil pack every year and a module every other even hotwired with good voltage. I drive a lot and it gets hot here in the summer. The TR6 has been way more reliable. I did burn up a coil once already though; 2 years in. Bob Bailey looked at it and couldn't figure out why it failed; no visible heat damage. It was nice getting a new coil for $60.
 
I've tried two different modules and coil packs. I've tried gapping the plugs at .025 and it ran like crap. I set the gaps back to .030. Today I bought some fittings so that I can hook a pressure gauge up to the header, before the turbo, to measure the back pressure. I just want to rule-out a back pressure problem. The next test I might do is set the lifters to zero lash, just to rule out defective lifters that may be prematurely pumping up. This engine does not RPM past 5850. Peak power is at only 5200, and should be closer to 5600.

What is also puzzling is that switching from pump gas, 20 psi with 18 degrees of timing over to race gas, 25 psi with 23 degrees of timing only gave me a 2 MPH gain at the track. So there is definitely a 'wall' that I'm hitting.
 
I've tried two different modules and coil packs. I've tried gapping the plugs at .025 and it ran like crap. I set the gaps back to .030. Today I bought some fittings so that I can hook a pressure gauge up to the header, before the turbo, to measure the back pressure. I just want to rule-out a back pressure problem. The next test I might do is set the lifters to zero lash, just to rule out defective lifters that may be prematurely pumping up. This engine does not RPM past 5850. Peak power is at only 5200, and should be closer to 5600.

What is also puzzling is that switching from pump gas, 20 psi with 18 degrees of timing over to race gas, 25 psi with 23 degrees of timing only gave me a 2 MPH gain at the track. So there is definitely a 'wall' that I'm hitting.

Damn. My guess would be valvetrain or ignition. Probably valvetrain though. Is the cam installed/degreed per spec?
 
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