You can type here any text you want

Guess my horsepower

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!
toomany, In the post did you mean that you needed a weighed down effect (as if you were driving down the track) I have seen on a dyno that the rear tire spins much faster on that dyno wheel then on the road.. I hope I explained my question... I had a dyno and my car spooled instantly and only lasted 1 second on the pull, but when driving on street it is much different seems fine..
 
toomany, In the post did you mean that you needed a weighed down effect (as if you were driving down the track) I have seen on a dyno that the rear tire spins much faster on that dyno wheel then on the road.. I hope I explained my question... I had a dyno and my car spooled instantly and only lasted 1 second on the pull, but when driving on street it is much different seems fine..
Correct, the dyno sped-up faster than on the street, which was why my boost was lower than normal. On the street, my boost is lower in 1st and 2nd gear (especially 1st), then when i shift into Drive, the boost rises due to the increased load. The dyno simulated a lower gear since it allowed everything to speed up so quickly. Low boost meant very rich mixture, which further hurt my numbers.
 
Is there a way a dyno can simulate a road WOT pull????
Not sure how they set it up, but I imagine they could configure it to allow the RPM's to increase at a slower rate. I've never operated a dyno, so i'm not certain.
 
My chart was the same, it finally smoothed out after the plug gap went to .025. I also disconnected my 2 step at the same time, but I believe it is gap (weak spark) with the stock ignition. I tested 2 sets of wires, GM coil and modules new and 40k originals. My top RPM & HP increased a few hundred RPM with better springs.
Just curious. what springs did you end up running?
 
Just curious. what springs did you end up running?

The heads are cast iron Champions and a flat tappet cam, ended up with Comp 26981 beehive springs but they will not work with your heads and cam.

I found that i had to crank my boost up on the dyno to achive the same boost number on the track. Lighter load at the dyno, 2-4 lbs less boost from a track tune. Then turn down when I went back to the track, or add fuel and Octane!
 
Once I figure out these ignition gremlins, I plan on going back to the track again. There is so much left on the table. This combo should do 10.40's all day at 130+ MPH. I'm already planning the next project: TA Aluminum block, 274 CID beast. They're out of stock right now so I'll have to wait a few m9nths for a block.
 
I'd like to know what someone like Bison or Cal has to say about the Dyno tuning that spends a lot of time doing it. I found myself that for the cost and way the car reacted on the Dyno, that I would rather go to the track and do some rolling on runs. Log and tune. I only went to get a ballpark number, and wanted to see what the power band looked like.

Toomanymodz - I'm pretty sure once you figure out your ignition issue that you should have no problem reaching your goals with the work you have done. Your best pump gas times are an indication that when everything is working right your car performs well. I would think at your level you could benefit from switching to xfi. Any thoughts of going that route? The Coil on plug setups (TR6 or XIM with xfi) would be an easy solution to your ignition problems as we'll.

Do you have any power logger log files or a scanned Dyno sheet?

Brandon!
 
I'll scan the dyno sheet when I get home. It looks great up until 4800, after that it's a crazy graph. I haven't considered Xfi because I always wanted to mod the car in such a way that it could easily be returned to stock. I've seen 9 sec cars running the stock ignition and MAF sensor. I'm hoping to do the same.
 
Mustang dyno and Dynocom dyno both use an eddy brake that simulates real world load for steady state driving.
From their website, the dyno was a "mobile and self contained Dynojet 224X dynamometer". I wonder if it has an adjustable brake.
 
Not sure on the dynojet. But on the ignition issue the greater the load the greater the demand for stronger spark. When I was on the dyno I didn't have one issue with spark blowout. On the drive home got into it and the car was missing like crazy. turned out a plug wire was arching off the block.
 
I don't know if you guys seen a post with my Dyno pull, but it really lasted about 1.5 seconds, and it was blamed on my converter. The way it acted on the dyno is not the way it drives... The car does spool very fast, but not like it showed on the Dyno
 
Here is the dyno sheet. The first pull (blue lines) was at half throttle (dyno guy didn't floor it). Sure is a squiggly chart.
dyno_med.jpg
 
That looks very close to my chart before springs and plug gap. The dip at 5000 was the most visual to the condition. I could feel and hear the miss at 5000.
 
That looks very close to my chart before springs and plug gap. The dip at 5000 was the most visual to the condition. I could feel and hear the miss at 5000.
I finally got around to checking the plug gap and they were .030 I just changed them to .025, so maybe this weekend if the rain stops I can do a test pull.
 
If all goes well you will loose the big dips at 5k & 52, the wavy line will still be there I believe it is inconsistent load affecting boost & AFR. I found on the track it is smoother with the heavier load. Just my option from my testing.
 
Well, I gapped the Autolite 103's to .025 and it seemed to make things only worse. I checked the ohms on the coil packs and they ranged from 11.08 to 11.20. Seems a little low to me, but not that bad. I have a brand new AC Delco coil pack that I purchased a few months ago and it registered 11.46 ohms. Not sure what I should do at this point. For my V8 engines I always run the racing plug with the electrode cut back. Not sure how such a style plug would behave on the Buick. Thoughts anyone?
 
Back
Top