HBoost - "No Brakes" - Resolved

[1KWIKSIX]

That's a beautiful looking setup. Getting fluid moving and things to bleed has never been an issue. Just getting the pedal right at all. How much line modification did it take to get the adjustable PV in place?


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The Wilwood adjustable PV can be ordered with the pre-bend SS lines which connect directly to your master cylinder.

I made up a front and rear brake line exiting out of the adjustable Wildwood PV. I wound them like a coil for a few inches to absorb any movement (kinda like the stock factory set up) and made a 45 deg bend going towards the firewall into wildwood residual pressure valve(s) (2# for fronts & 10# for rear).
from there the new front line was made up to connect to the front teeing them together and the second line made up to connect to the brake line that previously connected to the factory PV. I needed two brass adapter fittings in order to make the connection due to the different brake line sizes used in the rear. These were readily available on line. Not too much difficulty.
I can definitely say "the juice was worth the squeeze" !

 

[1KWIKSIX]

Here's some pics

 

[Cryptic]

I re-bled the master as a last ditch using the "ports plugged" method. With the master back on the car and the ports on the master plugged I can get what feels like 1.5-3" of pedal travel with the car off before the pedal gets rock hard (ports on the master plugged with the brake lines disconnected). Does this sound like normal pedal travel or should I reattempt to bleed the master?

 

[pacecarta]

master has to be level to bleed with ports closed . will not work if angled up
what i do if just doing a master or a conversion is with master unbolted from booster (leave brrake lines connected ) , hold it so body is level , take lid off so you can see inside and then using fingers push the end of master in a little back and forth and watch the bubbles come up through the fill ports

if system had any other work and needs a bleed do a full bleed , either use a mighty vac or use pressured fluid from fill port , the powermaster priming syringe works great for this method

 

[Cryptic]

master has to be level to bleed with ports closed . will not work if angled up
what i do if just doing a master or a conversion is with master unbolted from booster (leave brrake lines connected ) , hold it so body is level , take lid off so you can see inside and then using fingers push the end of master in a little back and forth and watch the bubbles come up through the fill ports

if system had any other work and needs a bleed do a full bleed , either use a mighty vac or use pressured fluid from fill port , the powermaster priming syringe works great for this method

This was a bench bleed with the ports plugged. Not on the car. I’ve looked into the priming syringe. May try it out just to be safe.


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[Cryptic]

master has to be level to bleed with ports closed . will not work if angled up
what i do if just doing a master or a conversion is with master unbolted from booster (leave brrake lines connected ) , hold it so body is level , take lid off so you can see inside and then using fingers push the end of master in a little back and forth and watch the bubbles come up through the fill ports

if system had any other work and needs a bleed do a full bleed , either use a mighty vac or use pressured fluid from fill port , the powermaster priming syringe works great for this method

I ended up doing another bench bleed using a syringe and then plugging the ports and working the master back and forth. Bolted back to the car with the ports plugged I had about 1.5" of travel on the brake pedal before it went rock hard. I did a full bleed and the brakes seem to be okay now. The pedal is a little slow to come up but my understanding is that will get better as air works its way out of the PS system. Even after driving around for 10-15 minutes the pedal seemed to come up more quickly. It's hard to say if I'm 100% as I don't have a good frame of reference though.

 

[GNRick]

My pedal is also slow to come up. Someone said that's normal for these systems. I even have the fancy PSC reservoir, eliminating the "T" fitting.

 

[Cryptic]

My pedal is also slow to come up. Someone said that's normal for these systems. I even have the fancy PSC reservoir, eliminating the "T" fitting.

Thank you! I called Jim from Hydratech and he said that the pedal coming up more slowly is normal. According to him, as you put miles on it, it will slowly bleed air out of the PS system via microbubles (I also have the PSC reservoir). He said after about 150 miles it should be fully bled. I've put about 10 miles on it since my last reassembly and bleeding and it may be in my head but the pedal seems to be coming up faster already!

Thanks for your help everyone! It's nice to be able to finally get her back on the road after all these months!