help 84 gn no spark injector pulse

[sean lawrence]

well i have been restoring my 84 gn and my buddy has been helping me, so long story short while i was doing other things to the car i asked him to install a new coil pack on the car for me the previous owner said it was going bad and so he did and now the car will not fire up. it does not get any spark now or injector pulse, the car has had the conversion to the 86 87 coil pack and module and pig tail by the previous owner and was running fine before the coil was changed. here is what happened when he changed the coil he took the pigtail conversion out and just plugged in the harness straight to the module i dont know why but he did and that is when it would not crank and did not have any spark or injector pulse. i have got access to alldata and checked the wiring diagrams i checked all fuses and there good also checked the orange wire off the battery with the fuseable link and its good as well. then i checked the power to the ecm there are two spots a6 and i forgot the other one i think it was c16 it had 12v but a6 did not which was weird considering the orange wire was good and fuseable was good and thats what feeds a6 the memory power also it splices and goes to maf and esc and ing module and all of them had 12v so i could only think that it had a short or broken wire somewhere after the splice going to the ecm to a6. well thinking i had found the problem i cut a6 and wired it straight to the battery and tried to crank the car and still the same result no spark no injector pulse. i think when he plugged in the harness to the module without the pig tail conversion it sent back voltage to the ecm and fried it. i took the ecm apart and inspected it and it looks good nothing burned and no burnt smells but that does not mean a whole lot. i put a ecm on order at oreillys and should be here tomm morning and i hope it fixes it but i am not holding my breath. please help i really dont know what to do next and this is my first gn so im a little in the dark here but learning quickly as you can see. this does not make any sense to me has anybody else made this stupid mistake and if so did this happen and if so what did you do to fix it? thanks any help would be great. sean

 

[whitehot1]

I would check the wiring of the coil pack to ignition module and put the pigtail back on that your buddy removed.
Here is a link for the coil to ignition module wiring.

http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/coil.htm

 

[sean lawrence]

I would check the wiring of the coil pack to ignition module and put the pigtail back on that your buddy removed.
Here is a link for the coil to ignition module wiring.

http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/coil.htm

thanks for the diagram! i re-checked my buddys work and it is hooked up just like the diagram. so i tried to start the car and still have the same problem. any other ideas? what should i do next or check to solve this crazy issue?

 

[sean lawrence]

thanks for the diagram! i re-checked my buddys work and it is hooked up just like the diagram. so i tried to start the car and still have the same problem. any other ideas? what should i do next or check to solve this crazy issue?

also pigtail is installed

 

[whitehot1]

Check for any blown fuses and also check to see if the fuel injector harness is plugged in. Also you can do an ohm test on the coil pack,even though it's new it could be bad if you didn't check it before installation. The readings should be between 11 - 13k ohms. here is how to do it if you never did it before.

Take an ohmeter to coil pack terminal for cylinder # 1 and 4, then to 2 and 5, and finally to 6 and 3. You should see 12,000 ohms of resistance for each one of those tests... I'm not sure what the range is +/- but they can't stray too far from that 12k range.

There are good troubleshooting tips to follow on the website in the link below.

vortexbuicks-etc.com

 

[sean lawrence]

Check for any blown fuses and also check to see if the fuel injector harness is plugged in. Also you can do an ohm test on the coil pack,even though it's new it could be bad if you didn't check it before installation. The readings should be between 11 - 13k ohms. here is how to do it if you never did it before.

Take an ohmeter to coil pack terminal for cylinder # 1 and 4, then to 2 and 5, and finally to 6 and 3. You should see 12,000 ohms of resistance for each one of those tests... I'm not sure what the range is +/- but they can't stray too far from that 12k range.

There are good troubleshooting tips to follow on the website in the link below.

vortexbuicks-etc.com

coil pack is good 100% positive same issue

 

[whitehot1]

Maybe the new ecm will fix the problem. Did you order the BWD brand ecm?

 

[GNVenom]

If you plug an 87 style CCCI into a hot air car, you'll instantly blow the crank sensor. The 87 design reversed the power to the early crank sensor, causing damage to the hall effect sensor. Replace the crank sensor, and install the 87 with the CCCI conversion harness. And be sure to remove the pink resistance wire in the harness, and replace it with a plain 16 gage copper wire.

 

[sean lawrence]

If you plug an 87 style CCCI into a hot air car, you'll instantly blow the crank sensor. The 87 design reversed the power to the early crank sensor, causing damage to the hall effect sensor. Replace the crank sensor, and install the 87 with the CCCI conversion harness. And be sure to remove the pink resistance wire in the harness, and replace it with a plain 16 gage copper wire.

i will be buying one tomm then before i pick up the ecm

 

[sean lawrence]

If you plug an 87 style CCCI into a hot air car, you'll instantly blow the crank sensor. The 87 design reversed the power to the early crank sensor, causing damage to the hall effect sensor. Replace the crank sensor, and install the 87 with the CCCI conversion harness. And be sure to remove the pink resistance wire in the harness, and replace it with a plain 16 gage copper wire.

well i went and got a crankshaft position sensor with the bracket and ordered a pigtail for the 87 crankshaft position sensor and that should be in tomm morning. my question is will the sensor just bolt right on where the 84 85 went, and then use the pigtail and splice the wires together. next problem is the pigtail wires are all white on the 87 style i ordered, do you have a diagram how i should splice these wires together to make it work? thanks, sean

 

[GNVenom]

A complete plug-and-play harness is available. You would use the 87 style sensor and bracket and the extension that plugs into the sensor on one end and plugs into the weatherpack connector from your 84 style harness. That's how I would recommend you do it, because it eliminates wrong wiring issues.

All crank sensors between all years install identically. Remember to use the slot furthest away from the wire exit to engage with the interrupter and keep the slot positioned evenly between the interrupter.

 

[sean lawrence]

A complete plug-and-play harness is available. You would use the 87 style sensor and bracket and the extension that plugs into the sensor on one end and plugs into the weatherpack connector from your 84 style harness. That's how I would recommend you do it, because it eliminates wrong wiring issues.

All crank sensors between all years install identically. Remember to use the slot furthest away from the wire exit to engage with the interrupter and keep the slot positioned evenly between the interrupter.

thank you for the reply but the problem is that this is my daily driver right now and it hard to keep getting rides. i understand you need to make money for your products and research but i cant wait for however long it takes for your adapter to get here, cant i just paypal you 34.00 and you send me the diagram and you can keep the adapter. im not going to give the info out to anyone if i was i would just order the adapter and unwrap the tape and see where the wires go and post them i just need my car going asap. i really do appreciate your help and pointing me to the cps i just have to get it going. thanks, sean

 

[GNVenom]

It's not about the $$, but rather doing it correctly. If you splice wires incorrectly, it may work for a while, bur everyone has a different way of doing it - and I've seen many "wrong" wiring connections over the years.

Also, if you wire the sensor incorrectly, you run the risk of burning out the new part as well. You don't want to chance that I'm sure. Now, as for the wiring order, that's available online, just look for wiring diagrams on the turbo Buicks. To advise a wiring conversion on a forum such as this would possibly lead to different interpretations, i.e. wrong wiring again. I wouldn't want to be the sole adviser on this. This is why I advised you to use a plug-and-play solution - it's been proven to work every time.

Unsealed wire splices and connections make up the majority of wiring failures in our turbo cars. I have preached "sealed" connections for many years now, and for a good reason.

Off the soapbox....

 

[BILL HAINES]

"YOU CAN LEAD A HORSE TO WATER...BUT..."

 

[sean lawrence]

It's not about the $$, but rather doing it correctly. If you splice wires incorrectly, it may work for a while, bur everyone has a different way of doing it - and I've seen many "wrong" wiring connections over the years.

Also, if you wire the sensor incorrectly, you run the risk of burning out the new part as well. You don't want to chance that I'm sure. Now, as for the wiring order, that's available online, just look for wiring diagrams on the turbo Buicks. To advise a wiring conversion on a forum such as this would possibly lead to different interpretations, i.e. wrong wiring again. I wouldn't want to be the sole adviser on this. This is why I advised you to use a plug-and-play solution - it's been proven to work every time.

Unsealed wire splices and connections make up the majority of wiring failures in our turbo cars. I have preached "sealed" connections for many years now, and for a good reason.

Off the soapbox....

sealed connectors is all i ever use, there expensive but thats all i ever use and there worth it so i could not agree anymore. thanks for the help my friend

 

[sean lawrence]

sealed connectors is all i ever use, there expensive but thats all i ever use and there worth it so i could not agree anymore. thanks for the help my friend

just ordered your wiring adapter and did 2 day ups shipping, i hope this fixes it.

 

[sean lawrence]

just ordered your wiring adapter and did 2 day ups shipping, i hope this fixes it.

also can i send you my digital cluster to have a 199 chip installed?

 

[GNVenom]

also can i send you my digital cluster to have a 199 chip installed?

Yep.

 

[sean lawrence]

Yep.

well i installed the 87 crank sensor along with caspers adapter and it still has the same issue now again. no injector pulse and no spark. can anybody else help me with this problem????????????????????????

 

[GNVenom]

Make sure you have 12v power to both pink/black wires in the connector, along with both of the gray/red wires. This applies to the 1985 wiring. Also, be sure the crank sensor slot interrupter wheel is furthest from the connector of the sensor.

Don't assume your sensors are good; if they were plugged into and powered up in a mis-wired system, you run the risk of killing a new sensor.

Don't assume the connector is properly contacting the coil module. I have seen MANY defective CCCI connectors that ohm out perfectly, yet don't make adequate contact to the pins in the module.

Finally, be sure the module is a good, OEM GM module.