HIDs before and after pics/ install thread. (Alradco HIDs)

[GNICETRY]

Here is a video of Ecode driver comparing HID passenger:

 

[GNVenom]

The stock wire used on the GN is 16 gage throughout. Add to that the unsealed bulb connectors on brass lamp terminals, it's a wonder you even get any light out of the stock system. Those connectors commonly corrode because they're unsealed and weather can get behind the lamps.

There brightener uses 14 gage wire, designed with the same unsealed plugs that plug into the standard sealed beam or halogen lamps. If you use H4's for your headlights, the pinouts are different. So, the ideal way to do it is to remove the sealed-beam connectors and insert HID ballast sealed connectors. That would tend to complicate the brightener harness; I think a new design would be more appropriate.

I went through the whole design process many years ago, not really sure if I want to do it all over again. So, for the hobbyists, the above diagram would do the job.

 

[GNICETRY]

Here is the HID video:

 

[Red C5]

My sincerest apologies to those of you that have not received your orders. All remaining orders just got completed and are shipping in the morning. We were not prepared for the radiator, dual fan kits, and light orders. We were also plagued with a major computer problem that wiped out a couple of hard drives on our main computer and took out our router. I know when I order parts for my car, I can't wait to get them installed. Again, my apologies. Now that I have nothing to do, maybe I can get caught up on this thread and site. Thank you all. BTW, tracking numbers will be sent automatically on remaining orders.

Peter

 

[jsta6]

The thing is, some cars will work without using relays, but MOST wont. The wiring in our GN is aging in a big way, and picking up resistance along the way. The "startup" demand for the HID ballasts puts us in the relay-needed category. Otherwise, the HID's use less current than the standard halogen bulbs. It's that startup that gets you. Low battery, high surge, and the bulbs just flicker instead of coming on.

The startup on a typical ballast lasts around 50-200 milliseconds, just enough for the power sag to prevent the lamps from striking the arc. Now, if the bulb doesn't start, there is an internal spark gap in the ballast that absorbs the high voltage energy (at least there is in the Philips boxes). Problem is, the spark gap doesn't last very long, eventually allowing the high energy to self-destruct the low voltage internal components. Then you have a melt-down. So, strong voltage at startup is absolutely necessary.

If you ever see your headlights start to flicker, it's telling you that you need relays. But usually by then it's too late.

John, assuming you had just the two low beams, what about adding a relay delay module to one of the two lights so that they don't both come on at the same time? or is the delay not good for the ballast?

http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?products_id=1227

 

[GNVenom]

I wouldn't delay the lights. The startup is only around 40 milliseconds, so having the extra current will assure the strike will occur, even if your battery is a bit low. The typical ballasts have a 9 volt minimum requirement, so a partially discharged battery will provide maybe 10 volts - enough to pass the strike test. But, since the startup current is somewhere around 15 amps for that time period, the voltage drops anyway, so you don't want to give the ballasts less than the maximum available. Any slight resistance between your battery and the ballasts will cause a significant voltage drop. Relays and 14 gage feeders pretty much prevent that from happening.

When in doubt, install relays and direct-to-battery feeds.

 

[DMAC]

I bought a pair of 10K HID s off ebay that were very reseaonable

 

[Squid4life]

I bought a pair of 10K HID s off ebay that were very reseaonable

RedC5 sells a reasonable setup, and he is a SUPPORTING VENDOR.

I'd rather buy from a vendor on here!

 

[granatl]

Hi Bruce,
I'll check with Jack. Looks like the picture quality got downsized a bit too much

I have the original at home. I'll re-create the PDF in a higher resolution.

 

[Bruce Urie]

I have the original at home. I'll re-create the PDF in a higher resolution.

Ok, Jack, I sure would appreciate that....let me know how it comes out and what I can do.

Thank you kindly.

Bruce '87 Grand National

 

[Bruce Urie]

I received my set of HID lights from RedC5 today, from Peter. Well packed, all tracking information was complete, everything was intact.

Peter!!!!!! Are you listening? I got my set in today....15 December 2012, Saturday.....real nice set of HIDs. I thank you for all of your help and education on these......wish me luck on getting these set up without blowing up the front end.

Bruce '87 Grand National

 

[Squid4life]

wish me luck on getting these set up without blowing up the front end.

Bruce '87 Grand National

You'll be okay Bruce, the install is not hard at all. Post up if you change anything on the install, anything diff than mine. I will be putting another set on this car plus my 87. Another set of eyes and ideas may differ from mine. Can't wait for your reaction on the difference in the before and after!

 

[granatl]

Here's the high resolution version

 

[jdpolzin]

Alradco, What are you doing to seal the back of the housings? I know these kits are all vented behind the HID bulb, do they need to be vented? I'm hearing a lot of people are having a lot of problems with moisture buildup inside the housing.

 

[Steve V]

Guys I installed my highs yesterday and took out the GN lastnite. They work nicely with my only issue is the time it takes to get the bulbs to warm up....12 seconds.....go from full light to low light for about 12 seconds sucked. So in order for this to work the mod for all 4 is needed IMO.

I also noted that my headlamp switch was quite warm to the touch when I got home...about and hour drive....so relays for sure will be added. My car is a 2 owner and was not modded until I got it .

I have 6000k low and 4300k high and had a hard time telling and difference in brightness other than the intial strike was bluish on 6000 and white 4300,once at full brightness very hard to tell.

Still worth while mod IMO.

 

[jsta6]

FYI, found this today:

http://www.amazon.com/Painless-Wiri...F8&qid=1357566884&sr=8-2&keywords=painless+h4

http://www.painlesswiring.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=30802

http://www.painlesswiring.com/Manuals/30802.pdf

http://www.amazon.com/Painless-Wiri...F8&qid=1357566884&sr=8-1&keywords=painless+h4

http://www.painlesswiring.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=30815

http://www.painlesswiring.com/Manuals/30815.pdf

http://www.amazon.com/Painless-Wiri...qid=1357567594&sr=1-1&keywords=painless+30814

http://www.painlesswiring.com/Manuals/30814.pdf

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=80300

 

[jdpolzin]

Alradco, What are you doing to seal the back of the housings? I know these kits are all vented behind the HID bulb, do they need to be vented? I'm hearing a lot of people are having a lot of problems with moisture buildup inside the housing.

????????

 

[Squid4life]

Jeremy, I haven't had any more issues, and now is our rainy season here in SoCal. Crazy, I know. It had some moisture in it a few times after a rain or car wash, but now it doesn't. It has down poured, and I drove in it multiple times and no issues. I might seal them if I get time and think about it, but doesn't seem to be an issue now. Maybe when I get a set of high beam HIDs before my next road trip I will seal them all a little bit.

 

[Bruce Urie]

Please tell me how you're going to seal them...I'd like to know......wouldn't the heat from those bulbs melt your sealer? Just curious.

Bruce '87 Grand National

 

[Squid4life]

Please tell me how you're going to seal them...I'd like to know......wouldn't the heat from those bulbs melt your sealer? Just curious.

Bruce '87 Grand National

RTV? High temp? "The right stuff"? Hadn't really thought what to use yet. Not sure about heat, mine are never very hot even using the lights during the day, 90 degrees outside, sitting in traffic, with stupid high IAT's.