How are the "new" Eagle cranks working out?

[SpdRacer1986]

I have an Eagle stock stroke kit I put in my car 2 years ago. I have 2000 miles on it and it has been fine. I use it for street only. I was very happy with it. They sent me an internal balance kit instead of a external from what I ordered. I kept it, had an SFI flexplate neutral balanced and installed a TA balancer. The journals were perfect and so was the rear seal area. It doesn't leak and if I had to do it all over again, I would.

 

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

I have my PA State Certified machinist papers (1985), but now I have a different career as an estimator. My access to manual machines is limited at best, I should have put the journals on V-blocks and measured the stroke, but now instead of holding dimensions to .001 of an inch, I have to hold estimates with a technical write up to a deadline.

This Eagle internally balanced forged crank came from a vendor on here, but it was not their fault, the box was labeled incorrectly.

Ok, I'm done with that, Chris glad to hear you like the new crank and would do it again! I plan on getting some seat time in my car before I have to park it for the season.

Chuck

 

[fastblackracing]

Same here. I cracked a block and reused all the internals. Thats got to say something for the rotator.

Eagle forged crank and rods in my engine this is second one with the same crank Cracked one block during a Dyno blunder and reused the recip assembly in a different block and crank checked out fine...so far so good.

Burick and Nasty, what did you guys have for main caps and or girdles when you cracked blocks?

 

[SloGN]

i have had my eagle crank and k1 rods in my engine for 4 yrs now.....been beat to hell.......been in the nines...Car weight in the 3675 area. the block is a 109 with 2 steel caps

 

[Mike T]

• I took the crank to my local machinist for an unbiased option of the crank. After a quick measurement of the journals (no numbers called out) he said the finish was very nice and the journal were all in the range that he shoots for and all were consistent in size. He was very busy so I didn't press for a more detailed inspection.

Next I measured the crank myself with a Mitutoyo .0001 resolution mic. I would have liked to have had my machinist numbers for comparative measuring but I'll probably get a 3rd opinion just to see where the numbers fall.

This was no quickie .....in fact I spent about 2 hours carefully measuring the front, middle and rear of each journal from as many angles as possible. I did my absolute best to calibrate the mics and attempted to eliminate as much operator error as possible.

You will see that +/- .0001 was the max that I detected between any of the journals. Anyone who has measured a crank knows that anything can cause a .0001 jump in a reading but I'm posting the numbers because they repeated a few times on the particular journal after multiple measurements.




Snout 1.3734


Mains from front to rear of each journal
1
2.4994
2.4994
2.4994

2
2.4994
2.4995
2.4995

3
2.4994
2.4994
2.4994

4
2.4994
2.4993
2.4994

Rods from front to rear of each journal

1
2.2490
2.2490
2.2489

2
2.2490
2.2489
2.2489

3
2.2491
2.2491
2.2490

4
2.2491
2.2490
2.2490

5
2.2490
2.2490
2.2490

6
2.2490
2.2490
2.2490

 

[achalmersman]

Just visited their booth at SEMA today. They are releasing a stroker rotating assy with crank, rods pistons and bearings. I believe the pistons were made by CP and so far are only available for 8.5 CR (I assume on stock cc chamber)

 

[achalmersman]

More pics

 

[Mike T]

Whoever set up the display must have taken the info directly from the box

 

[2QUIK6]

So I just received a Weber 4340 crank, it sure is not as shiney as the Eagles on that display!

 

[achalmersman]

It was also on display in the new product ball which I saw today. I would assume they had polished the ones on display to a mirror for show

 

[achalmersman]

What is the machining that Weber states on their site that they do that is required on other people's cranks?

 

[TURBOELKY]

I don't think I would trust a "balanc

So I just received a Weber 4340 crank, it sure is not as shiney as the Eagles on that display!

If its not shiny, it can't be that fast!! lol. Does weber have any markings on the front throw of the crank?

 

[Mike T]

So I just received a Weber 4340 crank, it sure is not as shiney as the Eagles on that display!

The Eagle that I purchased has a shine because the counterweights were machined for external balance and the journals are a very smooth mirror like finish.

The Eagle crank on display most likely has their optional "Armor Coat" that is a process where the metals surface is altered to make it smooth.

What is the machining that Weber states on their site that they do that is required on other people's cranks?

I think they may be referring to the knurled rear seal area and the rear flange ........at any rate I've heard that they have a very good crank as well.

It would be very informative if we could see journal specs on the Weber.

All of the cranks have their own unique features but the one that I really like is this long keyway crank that a board member has a line on. Anyone who has lined up a press fit balance knows that this would help.

 

[2QUIK6]

I don't think I would trust a "balanc

If its not shiny, it can't be that fast!! lol. Does weber have any markings on the front throw of the crank?

None that I saw, I just unwrapped it to check it out, then wrapped it back up, but I did not notice any stamping on it like on the Eagle one stating it was Webers.

Yes, the machining Weber does is on the rear seal area. My builder prefers the weber partly for that reason as he thinks they seal better, and also says the webers seem to be more uniform in the journal sizing, he has had experience with others having very different sizes from the same manufacturer. Probably most of these are made in the same China factory, just depends who is doing the finishing machine work I suppose. The rotating assembly is something I know how it works, but would never attempt to put one together not being good with tolerances...I guess that's why I'm not a machinist, but my brother is...we are complete opposites.
I'll have to take a closer look at it tomorrw on the snout and keyway area.

 

[Mike T]

Been side tracked for a while but the crank is out for balance. It was fitted into the block to check tolerances and thrust. Upon removal I noticed the two center main bearings may be contacting the crank radius.
The contact appears to be very, very slight and may not require any correction but I though it would be worth passing along for others.

This is with Clevite P series.

 

[turbo nasty]

Burick and Nasty, what did you guys have for main caps and or girdles when you cracked blocks?

ARP main studs and two center billet caps

 

[bison]

That contact is totally unacceptable. The bearings need a heavy chamfer to prevent this.

 

[Mike T]

Bison, I'm going to look into it further when the crank comes back from balancing. The photos may be deceive because of how easily the bearing coating shows a witness mark. Strange part is that the lower halves of the same two center bearings show nothing.

The p series clevite is what Eagle recommends for this crank and they say they haven't had to clearance any of them. Not saying their right in all cases.... just sharing what I've found.

 

[gunzandgearz]

Bison is right that is totally unacceptable, I would be checking the bearings out thoroughly as if it didn't leave those witness marks on the lower halves it almost cant be in the crank, unless its bent. The bearings these days don't seem to be as good as they used to be for some reason,just like everything else in this day and age its like there is no quality control any more or they just don't give a damn,I have built a bunch of engines over the years and have never had any bearing issues like I have seen lately, used too I would only need to buy another set for the same engine build if I was chasing clearances and was just trying to lose or gain a half thousandth I would buy a set of .001 over or unders and gain my half a thousandth but that was my choice not because the bearings were out of spec.Just curious who all makes rotating assemblys for these engines besides scat or eagle as I am getting ready to stroke mine and put some champion irons on it too go along with a 6262 precision dbb turbo I just purchased. I have an account with atech motorsports [which is summit] and they don't list anything.i was wanting to go with something besides the eagle or scat but not much info on these engines.

 

[Mike T]

I put a thin film of oil on all of the bearing surfaces, installed the crank, torqued the caps to spec, spun it over probably 5 times to check for any signs of binding or tight spots......I could literally move the crank (almost effortlessly) with 1 finger pushing on the counterweights. I think the witness marks occurred when the crank was pushed back and forth to check the trust clearance. Like I said it must be barely touching and I would be willing to bet that if the motor was rolled over (with the weight of the crank pushing down) it would show the marks on the bottom bearing halves as well.

It will be right before final assembly.......I noticed this while basically walking out the door with the crank in my hands.