How can I fool the computer to lock the TCC ???

[yullose]

I already ran wires to the upper left and upper right ALDL terminals, but still no TCC lockup. Reason is... I have no transmission to column linkage, so the ECM thinks I'm always in park.

Any idea what wire(s) to cut/jumper at the column switch to fool the ECM into thinking I'm in drive ???? That way the brake switch will still work as normal.

And NO, I don't want to put the linkage back on.

 

[TurboBob]

Its most likely not the PRNDL stuff, but the TCC brake switch. Do you have the shop manual? You should be able to trace it down.

Bob

 

[yullose]

Its most likely not the PRNDL stuff, but the TCC brake switch. Do you have the shop manual? You should be able to trace it down.

Bob

Well... with looking at the powerlogger screen, the car never gets out of park. (No linkage from column to trans)

I 'guess I could always just rotate the column lever out in the engine compartment.

 

[GNeric]

Just grab the column inside the car. Where the column shifter would normally be. That is what the linkage under the hood would be attached to anyway. Camaros are the same way. Shift cable brakes, and you just rotate the column.

 

[salvageV6]

Open circuit at the ECM pin B10 on C2, the orange/blk wire, will make the ECM think you are in gear out of P or N. Grounded tells the ECM you are in P or N.

I don't think it has anything to do with TCC lockup however.

 

[ijames]

ALDL pin F is in parallel with the switch in the ECM that grounds to turn on the lockup solenoid (pin A7), so if you ground pin F it doesn't matter what the ecm thinks (or even if it is in the car), the converter should lock. Check the ECM/SOL fuse, check for continuous power to pin B on the brake switch from that fuse, then for power on pin A on the brake switch when the pedal is pushed, and then the connection between pin A and one side of the tcc solenoid (purple wire), and then from the other side of the solenoid to pin F on the ALDL (tan/black wire). The solenoid coil should be either 30 or maybe 70 ohms, I forget which, but anything non-zero or under 100 ohms should mean it is ok.

 

[Jerryl]

Not sure if this answers your question, but you can have TT put a user option in the chip to lock the convert at whatever MPH you want.
Of course, that is Ass-U-Ming everything in the LU circuit is functional.

 

[yullose]

Not sure if this answers your question, but you can have TT put a user option in the chip to lock the convert at whatever MPH you want.
Of course, that is Ass-U-Ming everything in the LU circuit is functional.

Yeah... I'm aware of that... and my 6.0 chip lets me program it to whatever I want.

I just wanted to be able to throw a switch manually at any time and lock the converter... just to confirm it works.

I tried rotating the column lever and got the ECM to see it out of park, and it had zero effect.

The ECM/SOL fuse is good, so now I need to trace/test wires for 12v at the brake switch.

 

[bison]

Yeah... I'm aware of that... and my 6.0 chip lets me program it to whatever I want.

I just wanted to be able to throw a switch manually at any time and lock the converter... just to confirm it works.

I tried rotating the column lever and got the ECM to see it out of park, and it had zero effect.

The ECM/SOL fuse is good, so now I need to trace/test wires for 12v at the brake switch.

Any grounding of the TCC circuit in 2nd through 4th will activate the TCC solenoid. You can ground it the ALDL for convenience with a piece of wire or use a tap in connector of the ALDL harness to switch to ground

 

[yullose]

ALDL pin F is in parallel with the switch in the ECM that grounds to turn on the lockup solenoid (pin A7), so if you ground pin F it doesn't matter what the ecm thinks (or even if it is in the car), the converter should lock. Check the ECM/SOL fuse, check for continuous power to pin B on the brake switch from that fuse, then for power on pin A on the brake switch when the pedal is pushed, and then the connection between pin A and one side of the tcc solenoid (purple wire), and then from the other side of the solenoid to pin F on the ALDL (tan/black wire). The solenoid coil should be either 30 or maybe 70 ohms, I forget which, but anything non-zero or under 100 ohms should mean it is ok.

Did you mean to say 12v should pass through the brake switch when the pedal is released ???

I found two plugs on the brake switch... a three terminal and a two terminal.

I'm guessing the two terminal is for the TCC and the three terminal operates the brake lights. I have no 12v at the two terminal plug. (A or B)
I have 12v at the B terminal of the three prong plug (orange wire) but that's for the brake lights.

I took apart the brake switch and looked inside.
The two terminal side of the switch is "closed" when the pedal is released... the three terminal side is closed when the pedal is pushed...

I thought about just jumpering from that orange wire over to the A or B terminal on the two prong connector to see if I can get the TCC to lock.

 

[yullose]

Any grounding of the TCC circuit in 2nd through 4th will activate the TCC solenoid. You can ground it the ALDL for convenience with a piece of wire or use a tap in connector of the ALDL harness to switch to ground

That is... assuming it has a supply of 12v from somewhere...

I think I have a problem at the brake switch... no 12v from the fusebox... but the fuse is still good.

Now... here's something I didn't consider... if the chip was made with no converter lockup, can it still be locked manually ?

I wonder if it would be easier to just run 12v down to the plug where it goes into the trans.

 

[salvageV6]

The pink/blk wire is the hot side via the ECM/SOL fuse 10A key on hot in run, bulb test or start, for testing.

Purple wire is the output of the switch, power on it when brake pedal ISN'T pushed.

If you power it up use the brake switch since it appears to be working via your tests.

 

[ijames]

The pink/blk wire is the hot side via the ECM/SOL fuse 10A key on hot in run, bulb test or start, for testing.

Purple wire is the output of the switch, power on it when brake pedal ISN'T pushed.

If you power it up use the brake switch since it appears to be working via your tests.

What he said . Good luck.

 

[yullose]

Well... I think I figured out the main problem.

The brake switch wasn't there.

I wondered why I wasn't seeing the correct color wires.... then looked further and found them behind the fuse box.

I jumpered the wires and hear an audible clicking sound from the trans, but still no lockup while testing on jackstands. It doesn't throw the TCC flag on the powerlogger either.