how i got my chrome rear bumper down to 28 LBS!!

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

I wished i had a digital camera for everyone to see the outcome of my rear bumper-
it is a GM rear bumper without the bumperettes and a cut down aluminum rear support-

i cut the supports at a diagonal at both ends to allow the ends to be attached with a total of 4 bolts{two at top, two at bottom} and removed the entire 36 inch section in the middle-

now the rear bumper weighs 28 lbs and still looks factory-
rear bumper with steel support weighs in at 69.5 LBS with the impact bars-
thats 40 lbs difference!!

HTH

 

[Louie L.]

Bryan ,
I thought of doing this myself. Glad u did and reported the results. I also have a alum support and wondered how light the factory shell and cut alum support would be. You can loose some more weight by fabing up some new bumper brackets to replace the bumper shocks.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

i have a guy that sells those, posted them for sale on july 19th-
here at tb.com
and says that he can make 2 front and 2 rear and all 4 weigh in at 4 lbs!

i just weighed the center section that i cut out, and it was 8 lbs.
and with the bumperettes the total was 10.5

i need to get a better and more accurate scale to varify that it is indeed correct-
here is the breakdown of weight for rear bumper in various forms-


stock chrome bumper with steel support and steel impact bars-
69.5 LBS
stock chrome bumper with ALUMINUM support and steel impact bars-
48 LBS
stock chrome bumper with cut out ALUMINUM support and no bumperettes, {still has full length bumper strip } and no impact bars
28 LBS
hopefully it will be only 30 LBS with the aluminum supports

HTH

XENABAUME is taking the weight off of me

 

[Louie L.]

Bryan
if you are talking about the ones used for the FG bumpers i dont think they are sturdy enough even or a lightened stocker bumper.Or was he making different ones?

 

[turbo buicks]

this is weird. i was over at johns (red regal T's) house and he was telling me about the samer thing about cutting the bumpers for only what you need and he did it on his car and it works awesome

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

well i havent heard back from the guy, so i guess i will be getting mine from jack cotton-

he never specified if they were for the steel or fiberglass ones-


next weight reduction is the interior insulation-

 

[Intercooler]

Originally posted by Quick6'n'-K.C.
well i havent heard back from the guy, so i guess i will be getting mine from jack cotton-

he never specified if they were for the steel or fiberglass ones-


next weight reduction is the interior insulation-

Don't stop there! Lets see:

-Don't need all the headlights so go down to the two low beams and plastic at that.
-Dump the washer bottle, lines, wiper motor and arms- Not driven in the rain
-Remove the inner door supports
-Remove the inner fenders
-Remove A/C, cruise, power steering, charcoal cannister
-No need for two seats and run a fiberglass driver
-Rip the console out
-No back seat needed
-Aluminum driveshaft
-Remove door braces
-Yank the exhaust off
-Aluminum wheels
-Aluminum drums
-Lexan windows
-Fiberglass everything


I like a little reduction but prefer to just make more power

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

1.getting the plastic headlights from the ole DODGE aries!

2.already went and bought the rain x so the rest is outta the way!
3. door support are gone as soon as the bar is installed
4. plastic inners are staying in there, gots to look stock for awhile!
5. doesnt have cruise anyway, ac is goiing goiing gone-
6. full bench car, no console!
7. atr wants 350.00 for the 10 lb drive shaft-!!!

EDIT- STOCK ONE WEIGHS IN AT.... 16.5 LBS!!

8. custom exhaust is the only way to go
9. aluminum drums and t-type wheels are here
10. slim fast for the driver

SHUT UP JOE!

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

Louie L. i just visited your site, and was looking at the pics-

how does the stitch welding look from taking out the door crash bars?
good advice about having the bar before takeing them out