How much HP and TQ am i making? and How much is needed to run 10.90s?

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I agree with jasjamz. Heads, converter, turbo, cam, intercooler and boost. You should be able to run solid 10's with a 1.6 sixty at 25psi/21* with a tuned setup.
 
damn i was hoping that
1-Race fuel
2-A little Alky to help the intercooler
3-Timing and a lot of boost
would get me there with my current set up.
 
TURBOPOWERED68 said:
damn i was hoping that
1-Race fuel
2-A little Alky to help the intercooler
3-Timing and a lot of boost
would get me there with my current set up.

You would need more turbo. With a change to a 76p ex wheel and running the turbo with the wastegate blocked it will be close. You need decent air and 32-33psi with untouched heads. Depending on the bowl work you might be able to get it done at 25-26psi. This would be on at least 116 octane and no other issues.
 
damn i was hoping that
1-Race fuel
2-A little Alky to help the intercooler
3-Timing and a lot of boost
would get me there with my current set up.

It is not that it isn't doable, what Bison and jasjames is offeing is a faster road to success. Using what you have, even adding the parts suggested earlier will take some tuning skills and a lot of time/runs, to get it right. Their options would make the success sooner w/o the frustrations.
 
what kind of money am i looking at?? another $4500??
heads $1700.
Turbo $1000
Converter $1000
Injectors $400.00
After all this is done and its professionally tuned how close to the edge will my engine be??
Does it become a high maintenance engine??

David... Here is my honest opinion
Heads...ported! Not some hours tinkering on the head with a Dremel tool
Turbo... Bigger! Or run the one you have at about 35 psi!
Intercooler...Sell it to someone that wants low 12's High 11's.
Injectors... For E85 buy 120's! 10.90's on gas minimum 50's
Converter... Bite the bullet and get a real non lock up.
Tune... Timing and Boost make power! Stop thinking 25 psi and 18* will get you anywhere near 10's
Weight... More boost and timing!!!
Launch... 1.5x or forget it unless you can really carry the mail after the 330' mark.
Fear of breaking stuff... 10 second et' s will break stuff on buget builds,live with it!
I agree with jasjamz. Heads, converter, turbo, cam, intercooler and boost. You should be able to run solid 10's with a 1.6 sixty at 25psi/21* with a tuned setup.
 
what kind of money am i looking at?? another $4500??
heads $1700.
Turbo $1000
Converter $1000
Injectors $400.00
After all this is done and its professionally tuned how close to the edge will my engine be??
Does it become a high maintenance engine??


Every Turbo regal owner knows.....every $4500 spent is only one stage...I thought i beat the game at stage 3...somehow I managed over 6 years to get on stage 7 with a universal wiring harness end boss. -.-
 
Every Turbo regal owner knows.....every $4500 spent is only one stage...I thought i beat the game at stage 3...somehow I managed over 6 years to get on stage 7 with a universal wiring harness end boss. -.-

The reason i posted this question up is because i have been seriously considering jumping ship and going with a junk yard LS build.
Not knocking the LC2 as i have had this set up in another hybrid i am just being realistic with my self, i don't have a clue about what i am doing and i am most likely going to blow this up soon. The guys that KNOW what they are doing are blowing things up i can't possibly think it wont happen to me. That said id rather blow up an engine that is readily available in the junk yards and Craigslist.
I am not likely to dump Another $4500.00 into a this set up if that same $4500.00 can take me 80% of the cost on an LS build.
 
what kind of money am i looking at?? another $4500??
heads $1700.
Turbo $1000
Converter $1000
Injectors $400.00
After all this is done and its professionally tuned how close to the edge will my engine be??
Does it become a high maintenance engine??

No, but depending on how many times you've detonated it already could be a reason to inspect the short block build. I will tell you this. I compared the logs I have of a car before and after mods like I listed for you. It moved more air with the same 6262 at 20 Psi, ported heads, small hyd roller, and Bisons favorite converter than it did with a stock head and cam and a precision vigilante converter at 26 psi. Same a/f ratio, same timing. Now, in the mind less boost equals less stress...yeah, OK whatever make you sleep at night! Lol! As far as the up keep. That did not change. Yes, adjusting roller rockers take more time than bolting on a stock shaft. But snap a few stockers and the time and cost will catch up to you. Other than that its the same routine upkeep.
 
The cheapest thing to do is not run a number, but try going faster and see where you end up. I honestly can't tell the difference when driving between a 10.7 run and a 11.3 run at the same mph. On the cheap, I'd add 100 octane unleaded and keep spraying alky with the 42's unless you get KR, then add some more timing in 1-2 to try to get it to ET better. I've run a 10.9x at 121 mph, but with a 1.55 60 foot to get that ET.
 
No, but depending on how many times you've detonated it already could be a reason to inspect the short block build. I will tell you this. I compared the logs I have of a car before and after mods like I listed for you. It moved more air with the same 6262 at 20 Psi, ported heads, small hyd roller, and Bisons favorite converter than it did with a stock head and cam and a precision vigilante converter at 26 psi. Same a/f ratio, same timing. Now, in the mind less boost equals less stress...yeah, OK whatever make you sleep at night! Lol! As far as the up keep. That did not change. Yes, adjusting roller rockers take more time than bolting on a stock shaft. But snap a few stockers and the time and cost will catch up to you. Other than that its the same routine upkeep.
i have just about every log of every WOT blast (i think) and i have been doing a good job at avoiding KR. i am just thinking that once i do start pushing, things will brake as some one posted earlier.
Roller Rockers is another one on my list -- Rockers, push rods, valve covers or spacers. it all adds up in a hurry.
 
TURBOPOWERED68 said:
The reason i posted this question up is because i have been seriously considering jumping ship and going with a junk yard LS build.
Not knocking the LC2 as i have had this set up in another hybrid i am just being realistic with my self, i don't have a clue about what i am doing and i am most likely going to blow this up soon. The guys that KNOW what they are doing are blowing things up i can't possibly think it wont happen to me. That said id rather blow up an engine that is readily available in the junk yards and Craigslist.
I am not likely to dump Another $4500.00 into a this set up if that same $4500.00 can take me 80% of the cost on an LS build.

If you think you can build a turbocharged ls combo for $5400 I'd think again. Probably $15k the first time around. Even a real strong 500hp NA ls going to be a lot more than that.
 
If you think you can build a turbocharged ls combo for $5400 I'd think again. Probably $15k the first time around. Even a real strong 500hp NA ls going to be a lot more than that.
I got you, just thinking that putting another $4500.00 into this is not a good idea for ME. when in a few months ill be rebuilding my engine again because something went wrong.
ALSO not saying that things don't wrong in the LS setups, just that parts are just about everywhere and dirt cheap.
Once the LS set up is done its more of finding another cheap engine and dropping it in.
 
my 02,you need to get the car to the track and work on the tune,leave points,suspension,traction,etc.its your car and if you want to go fast testing and tuning is the only way unless you get someone that knows these cars to go with you.if your worried about breaking then dont bother,and i believe you should set some goals and this way you can buy the right parts and not have to always be upgrading.if that were my car i wouldn't swap parts till it gets faster and 60fts better.
 
my 02,you need to get the car to the track and work on the tune,leave points,suspension,traction,etc.its your car and if you want to go fast testing and tuning is the only way unless you get someone that knows these cars to go with you.if your worried about breaking then dont bother,and i believe you should set some goals and this way you can buy the right parts and not have to always be upgrading.if that were my car i wouldn't swap parts till it gets faster and 60fts better.

here is the crazy part-- I agree with you 100%
i guess i am getting bored with the LC2.
i have to admit its not even about a goal. As i am going to have my car tuned by a professional and i am sure it will run my magic number of 11.50 or better.
 
If you want to run a number,you need to leave hard. If you're going to leave hard,you need tires,torque converter,weight transfer,drive shaft,U-joints,yokes,axles,and traction. If you don't have these,you might need 800 hp,at the motor,to run your number.
 
you could always swiss cheese the crap out of that body............ loose a 1000lbs and you would really be flying.
 
dr_frankenstein said:
you could always swiss cheese the crap out of that body............ loose a 1000lbs and you would really be flying.

Thought about that
But a turbo LS no matter how slow it is would look great under my hood
 
I agree with jasjamz. Heads, converter, turbo, cam, intercooler and boost. You should be able to run solid 10's with a 1.6 sixty at 25psi/21* with a tuned setup.

Absolutely agree. I would toss that 206 cam and 3000 stall speed for a better setup, pull the heads and really open them up, and perhaps lose the T60 and go with a S472 (72mm) Bullseye Batmowheel turbo. With the right cam and stall you won't ever contemplate an LSX engine again, even with the weight...
 
Back to this one.
The mods that the car will get.
1- Front mount IC- Which one? i have no idea as i think that the Buick bolt ons don't fit my car.
2- Double in-tank Fuel pumps, Bigger fuel supply line.
3- N2O.

The only Buick specific mods that the car is getting are
4- 80# Injectors
5- Chip- both TT and Comander yes i will only use one at a time. LOL
6- Roller rockers

At this time i will avoid buying any more Buick specific parts and work with what the car already has and whats mentioned above.
After these things are installed and working i will take it to a Professional for tuning.
And based on those results (getting tuned) a decision will be made on whether the V6 goes or stays.

yes, the car will get some other drive line upgrades but that stuff would be needed no matter which engine the car has.
 
Not going to happen.
I Just want to get kicked out for going too fast :cool: So that i can add that to my stack of "cool guy" slow parts on my car.
Yes this is leading up to something.

Can the 10.99s to 10.90s be realistically reached and be a reliable DD with my current set up? Yes tuned by a professional.
See signature list of junk on the car.

If NOT---Approximately how much money in parts would be needed to make this happen? And Yes tuned by a professional.
My '86 T Type is my daily driver and my ONLY vehicle. At Reynolds last month I ran consistent 10.80s and drove it 600+ miles each way. At 18lbs. of boost. I put 25k+ miles a year on my car so a DD capable of high tens is possible but it costs! :D
 
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