How to up voltage output of CS144

[RmvBfrFlght]

Thanks for the help as this will be useful for those with stockish cars.

I don't have a power master or fan delay relay. This car is on a stand alone harness and all and wired. I can wire this however I need.

Ah, OK, didn't know that. For the sense wire GM typically used 12 AWG wire with a 16 AWG fusible link.

Right now it's got ign 12v to L as i dont run a stock dash. It is run without a light.

This may be part of the low voltage. The L (Lamp) input requires a lamp or a 470 ohm resistor to protect the regulator. The F (Field) terminal has the resistor built into it. GM would run ignition switch voltage to the F terminal on cars that had a volt gauge in the dash.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[Boost231]

I'm running a tuff stuff 250 amp alternator. Not sure if that matters

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[Boost231]

Thanks for the help as this will be useful for those with stockish cars.

I don't have a power master or fan delay relay. This car is on a stand alone harness and all and wired. I can wire this however I need.

Ah, OK, didn't know that. For the sense wire GM typically used 12 AWG wire with a 16 AWG fusible link.

Right now it's got ign 12v to L as i dont run a stock dash. It is run without a light.

This may be part of the low voltage. The L (Lamp) input requires a lamp or a 470 ohm resistor to protect the regulator. The F (Field) terminal has the resistor built into it. GM would run ignition switch voltage to the F terminal on cars that had a volt gauge in the dash.

RemoveBeforeFlight

I thought L was used without and F with light. I'll look into this more.

Thank you

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[seedling]

Hey Man,

No offense intended, however, you might look a little closer at Jerryl’s post again?

As I’m pretty sure Jerryl has engineered the exact same (if not very similar) animal to what you are looking for here? In that, he’s been running a “home brew” Adjustable Voltage Booster (to work with his XFI) and I’m pretty sure that he’s been running it for over a year now?

Again, I mean no offense / disrespect, as I just didn’t know if you caught what all he was saying there? As it sounded like he had built and been using what sounded like your solution is all? If not, no biggie, as there’s no harm, no foul!!






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[Boost231]

Hey Man,

No offense intended, however, you might look a little closer at Jerryl’s post again?

As I’m pretty sure Jerryl has engineered the exact same (if not very similar) animal to what you are looking for here? In that, he’s been running a “home brew” Adjustable Voltage Booster (to work with his XFI) and I’m pretty sure that he’s been running it for over a year now?

Again, I mean no offense / disrespect, as I just didn’t know if you caught what all he was saying there? As it sounded like he had built and been using what sounded like your solution is all? If not, no biggie, as there’s no harm, no foul!!






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I did read it and know what he's doing. Not looking for a trigger volt boost. Just looking to bump up overall voltage .6v across the board. From idle to WOT. Using the S wire and hard wiring it seems like a way of doing this.

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[seedling]

Hey Man,

No offense intended, however, you might look a little closer at Jerryl’s post again?

As I’m pretty sure Jerryl has engineered the exact same (if not very similar) animal to what you are looking for here? In that, he’s been running a “home brew” Adjustable Voltage Booster (to work with his XFI) and I’m pretty sure that he’s been running it for over a year now?

Again, I mean no offense / disrespect, as I just didn’t know if you caught what all he was saying there? As it sounded like he had built and been using what sounded like your solution is all? If not, no biggie, as there’s no harm, no foul!!






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did read it and know what he's doing. Not looking for a trigger volt boost. Just looking to bump up overall voltage .6v across the board. From idle to WOT. Using the S wire and hard wiring it seems like a way of doing this.

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OK, sorry I misunderstood then!! Lots of good info in the thread though!!

Thanks!!


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[bison]

If you’re between 13.5 and 14.4 you will be fine. Changing regulators to get to the high end is possible or using a small resistor to trick but be warned that exceeding the charging threshold of the battery will shorten its life. Reduced output when hot could be other issues. Voltage drop to the ecu could be grounding issues and or resistance at the ignition switch. I’ve noticed replacing the main engine ground usually helps with voltage when the 30 year old one is replaced.


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[bison]

Run the sense line to a switched ignition point in the fuse box not the battery. That's what I did on my car. The voltage typically runs at 14.2 volts. Never goes below 13.8 when hot. The regulator has temperature compensation in it so it will always drop a little when warm.

I figured that. Was going to look for a point with the lowest voltage

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You would select resistors based off the highest voltage and aim for a maximum of a little over 14v or it will be overcharging in some instances


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[Boost231]

Run the sense line to a switched ignition point in the fuse box not the battery. That's what I did on my car. The voltage typically runs at 14.2 volts. Never goes below 13.8 when hot. The regulator has temperature compensation in it so it will always drop a little when warm.

I figured that. Was going to look for a point with the lowest voltage

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You would select resistors based off the highest voltage and aim for a maximum of a little over 14v or it will be overcharging in some instances


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I understand. I was going to find a low volatge source to run to S first before moving over to the resistor option

I agree with the voltage. I would really just like to see 14.2 at idle but 14.4 would be nice so once its warm it will be high 13s. Right now I dont see anything over 13.7 or 13.8

I'll figure this out once I get some time to turn wrenches

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[turbo nasty]

Many times the voltage in the car ins't the same as what the battery/engine bay is getting due to things like what Bison pointed out. Bad grounds, poor wires, etc.
If your basing the voltage on what you see on the XFI, PL, SM, etc then check the volts at the battery before doing any alt output mods.
In a nutshell......if you are seeing 12.7- 13.1 volts on the Scanmaster and you check the voltage at the battery with car running you might see 14.1 or better.
So if you up the output to try and see better voltage in the car then you gonna fry the battery (as mentioned).

 

[Boost231]

Many times the voltage in the car ins't the same as what the battery/engine bay is getting due to things like what Bison pointed out. Bad grounds, poor wires, etc.
If your basing the voltage on what you see on the XFI, PL, SM, etc then check the volts at the battery before doing any alt output mods.
In a nutshell......if you are seeing 12.7- 13.1 volts on the Scanmaster and you check the voltage at the battery with car running you might see 14.1 or better.
So if you up the output to try and see better voltage in the car then you gonna fry the battery (as mentioned).

Good info here for stock wiring cars

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[turbo nasty]

Also, the ignition switch and/or the bulkhead connector that plugs into the firewall/fuse box 12 volt pos feeds are corroded and cause a voltage drop.