I want to run between 15 psi and 22 psi How do I do it?

[BARRACUDA1968]

When I get my engine back in with the TA heads I want to be able to control boost from 15 psi to 22+. How do I do that with one actuator?

I'm a 1 1/2 in to the TB world and just haven't been able to spend a lot of time in this area. Thus far I've been controlling boost by turning the rod on the actuator. My problem is I use an HD piece from Limited Engineering. 18/19 psi in my minimum. Now from what I understand if I go to a stock style actuator I can control boost under 18/19 psi.

What is my solution to this so I don't need to change out actuators? I like simple so that's why I have stuck with this set up. I don't really understand boost controllers etc. I have an RJC boost controller but have never installed it. I understand it's purpose for spooling but the damn top hose is half the diameter of the fitting so I left it in the box.

I have read stories of fancy boost controllers failing and heads being lifted so they scare the hell out of me.

Any recommendations?

 

[bison]

Get the correct actuator and make sure the hole diameter is adequate to bleed off enough pressure when the valve opens


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[BARRACUDA1968]

I wasn't aware there were more than the 2 actuators I mentioned above? Where do I get an actuator that will operate in this range? Limited Engineering said one or the other? 18- or 18+

Not real sure what you mean about the (hole diameter) but if it's the puck hole I believe mine was drilled about an inch? I took grease and put it on the puck for a witness and then had a machinist drill the hole.

 

[TTA976]

I wasn't aware there were more than the 2 actuators I mentioned above? Where do I get an actuator that will operate in this range? Limited Engineering said one or the other? 18- or 18+

Not real sure what you mean about the (hole diameter) but if it's the puck hole I believe mine was drilled about an inch? I took grease and put it on the puck for a witness and then had a machinist drill the hole.

I would get a standard actuator (12-22#) and a Hallman Boost Controller Pro RX. Cracking pressure should be around 12 #'s with the 1.1 bar Then use the Hallman BC to control the boost up to 22#. I'd replace the spring with a heavy Duty spring included in the Hallman kit.

I wouldn't port the hole unless you are having trouble control boost (spikes). If so, I wouldn't go more than .95" with a good inside radius job. Picture the exhaust coming up and out of the header and out the wg hole (lay back the hole from say (3pm-9pm) INSIDE.
Rod should be placed around 1/8" from the spindle/puck, then pull and attach. Puck should only cover the hole by 1/8" all the way around.

If you over ported the wg accidently, RJC makes a plate that is placed between the turbo and downpipe.

This is the easiest most effective way to control boost without going external imo.

Joe

 

[bison]

I would get a standard actuator (12-22#) and a Hallman Boost Controller Pro RX. Cracking pressure should be around 12 #'s with the 1.1 bar Then use the Hallman BC to control the boost up to 22#. I'd replace the spring with a heavy Duty spring included in the Hallman kit.

I wouldn't port the hole unless you are having trouble control boost (spikes). If so, I wouldn't go more than .95" with a good inside radius job. Picture the exhaust coming up and out of the header and out the wg hole (lay back the hole from say (3pm-9pm) INSIDE.
Rod should be placed around 1/8" from the spindle/puck, then pull and attach. Puck should only cover the hole by 1/8" all the way around.

If you over ported the wg accidently, RJC makes a plate that is placed between the turbo and downpipe.

This is the easiest most effective way to control boost without going external imo.

Joe

I agree with all this. There are many different actuators available. None are a 100% bolt on to an e cover. Some have replaceable springs and an adjustable rod. The wastegate bypass and actuator should be sized so that there is no spike and no creep. This is a challenge in some applications. If you have a turbo that supports 70lbs/min and try and run it at 40bs/min boost control with be a struggle with just about any wastegate setup short of big valve, big bypass, light spring with external pressure sources and a good controller


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[BARRACUDA1968]

I agree with all this. There are many different actuators available. None are a 100% bolt on to an e cover. Some have replaceable springs and an adjustable rod. The wastegate bypass and actuator should be sized so that there is no spike and no creep. This is a challenge in some applications. If you have a turbo that supports 70lbs/min and try and run it at 40bs/min boost control with be a struggle with just about any wastegate setup short of big valve, big bypass, light spring with external pressure sources and a good controller


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Thanks for the information. I'll go this route when I get the motor back in. I want to start off at low boost and ride around for a while. Once get everything lined out I'll tune my way up the latter.

 

[we4Mateo]

Standard actuator hooked up tuner style, directly from turbo to actuator, will make it easy and safe to tune. Plus you'll find your minimum boost.

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

Standard actuator hooked up tuner style, directly from turbo to actuator, will make it easy and safe to tune. Plus you'll find your minimum boost.

That's how I have it now with an HD actuator. Minimum is 18 psi

I have a standard actuator on the shelf but I'm not sure how much boost I can get out of it. I was under the impression 18 psi was about it for those?

 

[aminga]

That's how I have it now with an HD actuator. Minimum is 18 psi

I have a standard actuator on the shelf but I'm not sure how much boost I can get out of it. I was under the impression 18 psi was about it for those?

Standard actuators are 12 PSI

 

[ITSAV6]

If you aren't getting knock at 18# why not get a rjc style boost controller?

 

[we4Mateo]

That's how I have it now with an HD actuator. Minimum is 18 psi

I have a standard actuator on the shelf but I'm not sure how much boost I can get out of it. I was under the impression 18 psi was about it for those?

If you port the wastegate hole, it'll go lower. I've had hd actuators down to 14psi tuner style but with smaller turbines than yours. Did you port the wastegate hole at all?

You can always get them back up to 22psi easy enough. I didn't run out of spring until I shot for 30psi. That's a lot of back pressure on a crappy headed car like mine. I'd think 15-22psi should be an achievable range with an hd actuator and good wastegate porting.

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

Yes we ported the wastegate hole. I can't remember exactly how much? Husek will remember, I did what he told me to do.

With the HD actuator 18 is my minimum with very little tension on the rod. Spooling was real slow. I put more pressure on the rod and it spooled faster and still peaked at 18/19.

Here is the witness




I think this was before porting it. I just measured the hole and it's a tad under an inch.

 

[bison]

I just re-read the first sentence of the op. "When I get back my engine with TA heads". There's no point in doing anything till you try the current config on the new engine. It will take quite a bit more exhaust pressure to make the same manifold pressure with this turbo vs stock or nearly stock heads


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[BARRACUDA1968]

Good point Bison.

I had Champion Irons before but the TA heads are going to flow better.

 

[TTA976]

I wouldn't run the HD actuator because there are a few disadvantages of having high cracking pressures is that you will end up running relatively high boost levels (as the boost level is not controlled by the driver nor the ECU) on partly closed throttles which is a waste of energy. Why having a turbo charger trying to force air into a "closed throttle"? Which really affects your real volumetric efficiency. The result is skewed fuel trims and higher cylinder pressures.
Also your response time with a wastegate is very abrupt. So lower cracking pressure puts less stress on your turbo and makes a smoother boost profile with less spikes and surging. I'll set wastegate cracking to 18psi when I plan to run 42psi.

This isn't the effin 80's guys!

Joe

 

[TT/Ameasap]

SD2 will control boost. I have run from 17 to 25 with it and I have an HD actuator, but it is barley snug.

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

I wouldn't run the HD actuator because there are a few disadvantages of having high cracking pressures is that you will end up running relatively high boost levels (as the boost level is not controlled by the driver nor the ECU) on partly closed throttles which is a waste of energy. Why having a turbo charger trying to force air into a "closed throttle"? Which really affects your real volumetric efficiency. The result is skewed fuel trims and higher cylinder pressures.
Also your response time with a wastegate is very abrupt. So lower cracking pressure puts less stress on your turbo and makes a smoother boost profile with less spikes and surging. I'll set wastegate cracking to 18psi when I plan to run 42psi.

This isn't the effin 80's guys!

Joe

Thanks for the information.

SD2 will control boost. I have run from 17 to 25 with it and I have an HD actuator, but it is barley snug.

I'll have to get over your way and check out what you're doing.

I'll just have to wait and see how my set up responds to the TA heads and go from there.