If you are thinking about a ROLLER Cam....much props!!!!!

[2toneNV]

cam kit

No, the kit comes with the roller cam, lifters, PAC bee-hive springs, retainers and keepers, correct length pushrods and cam thrust button. You would be smart to go with a new timing chain set bc it does not come in the Full Throttle Kit.

 

[ALVAROG1983]

Rocker Arms

No, the kit comes with the roller cam, lifters, PAC bee-hive springs, retainers and keepers, correct length pushrods and cam thrust button. You would be smart to go with a new timing chain set bc it does not come in the Full Throttle Kit.

you have to buy the roller rocker arms or can i stay with stock until i save up for the roller rocker arms dam this set up yet cheap why do you say i would need a new timing set up.

 

[Amelio]

you have to buy the roller rocker arms or can i stay with stock until i save up for the roller rocker arms dam this set up yet cheap why do you say i would need a new timing set up.

You can run the stockers just make sure you measure the preload and it is within spec...that is the key to a quite valve train that will live...I am running the stock rockers because I also did not have the coin for roller rockers.

I did buy a new timing set which I recommend and like mentioned does not come in the kit.

Also very important is to make sure the cam end play is in spec, this and lifter preload are critical in the roller setups.

There is a lot of info on this forum for what to set it at and how to do it and if you can not find it just pm me I will be glad to help.

 

[johnnyttype]

Here's another fan of roller cams Here's a comparision of two similar combos, just one is flat tappet and the other is a roller. Notice the roller has a much flatter curve!

Flat tappet 204/214 Peak:427hp @5000 ; less than 350hp @6000

Roller 206/206 Peak: 434hp @5400 ; 400hp @6100

oh and using a roller, you will have much stiffer springs so i would recommend trying to find hardened or solid rocker shafts if going the stock rocker direction! hth

john

 

[ROYAL_6]

You can run the stockers just make sure you measure the preload and it is within spec...that is the key to a quite valve train that will live...I am running the stock rockers because I also did not have the coin for roller rockers.

I did buy a new timing set which I recommend and like mentioned does not come in the kit.

Also very important is to make sure the cam end play is in spec, this and lifter preload are critical in the roller setups.

There is a lot of info on this forum for what to set it at and how to do it and if you can not find it just pm me I will be glad to help.

is there any way you can point me to the right direction on the cam end specs.. also, when you placed the rocker arms, what was the gap between the rocker and the valve?? did you use a gauge?? i was told by another person that the TR rockers are on a shaft, so they are not required to be "gapped" in other words you dont need a feeler gauge to properly adjust the rockers.. all you need to do is tighten them down.. that didnt sound right to me... i order a cam kit also.. and just want to make sure when i do the convertion , i want to make sure i do everything to specs.. also, the cam button.. i dont get the point of that.. where exactly does it go?? sorry for all the questions... ive changed many cams before, but it seems that TRs are a bit more different than youre tipycal Chevy Small Block. I never had to place a cam button.. and to adjust the rockers , i just looked up the specs for the feeler gauge.. anyways.. thanks for all your help..

 

[ROYAL_6]

If you run a roller you must cut down the exhaust guide and change the valve. Otherwise you will have a retainor to guide issue. The stock set up does not use a seal on the exhaust side. :smile:

Is there any place where i can find more information about this?? Cant you just buy a correct exhaust guide for the roller cam.. and when replacing the exhaust valve, does size matter???

 

[ALVAROG1983]

good questions royal 6 i can use this info also.

 

[Nick McCardle]

I agree with the last three posts as I've just ordered a roller cam and would like the info also

 

[Steve V]

hear you go ..

The valve guide is part of the head,the heads must be removed and taken to a machine shop to fix the guide issue. I am really surprised that Full Throttle doesn't list this on the website. I found out the hard way.

On the valve size yes it matters leave it to the machine shop,ALWAYS furnish your shop with the cam card that way if they can check the clearence accurately.

.517 is too much lift too be a drop in ,that's the lift on the smallest cam they sell. My shop said I was good to about .500 lift not .517

 

[ROYAL_6]

The valve guide is part of the head,the heads must be removed and taken to a machine shop to fix the guide issue. I am really surprised that Full Throttle doesn't list this on the website. I found out the hard way.

On the valve size yes it matters leave it to the machine shop,ALWAYS furnish your shop with the cam card that way if they can check the clearence accurately.

.517 is too much lift too be a drop in ,that's the lift on the smallest cam they sell. My shop said I was good to about .500 lift not .517

Full throttle doest not list anything about this on their web-site. this is actually the first time ive ever heard about this.. thank you for the heads up... so im guessing you wouldnt have this problem with Champion Heads?? im guessing you wouldnt...

 

[Steve V]

I believe champion heads are good to go,but call them to be sure.

I agree that Full Throttle should change their site to reflect this.

 

[ROYAL_6]

I believe champion heads are good to go,but call them to be sure.

I agree that Full Throttle should change their site to reflect this.

i did a little research.. couldnt really find much info, but the info that i did find was very helpful.. please correct me if im wrong.. but what i understood from all the threds that i read was that.. 1) the stock heads are only good for a little bit over .400 of lift, correct?? 2) the stock heads did not come with a exhaust seal on it... correct?? and 3) if wanting to go with a roller cam, you have to have the heads machine.. meaning the exhaust guides have to be cut down to fit in a seal, and also have to be replaced with aftermarket SS valves (both intake and exhaust..right?).....

also.. last qusetion.. it doesnt really matter if you are running a roller or solid.. or a flatt-tap.. all that matters is the "LIFT" on the cam , correct?? so if you purchase a cam (regardless of the type) if the lift is around the .500s or above, you still have to go through this process with your stock heads?? sorry for all the questions.. just the first time ive ever heard of this.. thank you for youre time and help.. thanks....

 

[Steve V]

Yes to all of your questions except the intake valves are good to go,it's an exhaust issue only.

 

[Amelio]

is there any way you can point me to the right direction on the cam end specs.. also, when you placed the rocker arms, what was the gap between the rocker and the valve?? did you use a gauge?? i was told by another person that the TR rockers are on a shaft, so they are not required to be "gapped" in other words you dont need a feeler gauge to properly adjust the rockers.. all you need to do is tighten them down.. that didnt sound right to me... i order a cam kit also.. and just want to make sure when i do the convertion , i want to make sure i do everything to specs.. also, the cam button.. i dont get the point of that.. where exactly does it go?? sorry for all the questions... ive changed many cams before, but it seems that TRs are a bit more different than youre tipycal Chevy Small Block. I never had to place a cam button.. and to adjust the rockers , i just looked up the specs for the feeler gauge.. anyways.. thanks for all your help..

I understand the confusion regarding the rockers if you have never been into one of these engines, they are not setup like a SBC but they are like a Pontiac and use a rocker bar. Basically you have 3 towers on the head that the rocker bar bolts and you just tq the bolts. You have to set the pre-load which is the amount of movement from the lifter cup from the retaining clip. The easiest way to do this is get a pushrod checking tool....install one set of lifters and check either the exhaust or intake doesn't matter which but say for example you want to measure the intake....set your pushrod tool on the intake valve and roll the engine until the exhaust valve is full open and the intake is shut...From here rotate or lengthen the pushrod tool until it is at zero lash then measure the length of the tool and add .30" and that is the length pushrod you will need.

I did not do it this way because I was told that the pushrods that come in the kit will work on the stock heads (if they have not been milled too much and gasket thickness) I assembled the valve train and just as I explained rolled the engine over for each valve and measured the distance between the lifter plunger and the retaining clip that hold the plunger in. I measured with a piece of safety wire ( I had a few different sized .28", .35" and .41") all of them were within spec so I was good and was able to use the pushrods that came with the kit which are 8.25" I think....

As far for setting the cam end play I decided not to use the cam button that cam in the kit...I actually used the one I had which uses the stock spring but I had the roller button on the end. Assemble the valve train and the timing chain and front cover. Then go to the rear cam plug (plug out of course) and what I did was thread a bolt into the hole of the cam I then up a dial indicator on the head of that bolt and since the front cover was on it is pushing the cam all the way back...set the dial to zero and then with a prybar I pushed the cam forward using the bolt......you want to shoot for no less than .005" and no more than .10" mine was at .006" and that was it.

These 2 measurements are very important for a quite engine and one that will stay together.

Hope that helped....I had to search this forum on many different threads to get this ...it can be a little confusing but once you get in there you will see how it works.

Good luck!:smile:

 

[1of1547]

is full throttle only vender that sells these kits

I got my roller kit from Anderson Performance. Between Bill's cam and the heads I won from JayC, Old Reliable is rockin!!!

 

[ROYAL_6]

Yes to all of your questions except the intake valves are good to go,it's an exhaust issue only.

thanks for the replys.. one last question.. im trying to picture this in my head.. and still dont understand it.. why cant this issue be resolve simply by replacing the valve springs ( beehive..ech..)??? is it that the guides arent able to hold the extra pressure (lift) the cam has??? why is a seal needed in the exhuast side if it didnt come stock?? sorry for all the questions.. just trying to understand this a bit more.. im just trying to picture this in my head.. sorry....

 

[ROYAL_6]

I understand the confusion regarding the rockers if you have never been into one of these engines, they are not setup like a SBC but they are like a Pontiac and use a rocker bar. Basically you have 3 towers on the head that the rocker bar bolts and you just tq the bolts. You have to set the pre-load which is the amount of movement from the lifter cup from the retaining clip. The easiest way to do this is get a pushrod checking tool....install one set of lifters and check either the exhaust or intake doesn't matter which but say for example you want to measure the intake....set your pushrod tool on the intake valve and roll the engine until the exhaust valve is full open and the intake is shut...From here rotate or lengthen the pushrod tool until it is at zero lash then measure the length of the tool and add .30" and that is the length pushrod you will need.

I did not do it this way because I was told that the pushrods that come in the kit will work on the stock heads (if they have not been milled too much and gasket thickness) I assembled the valve train and just as I explained rolled the engine over for each valve and measured the distance between the lifter plunger and the retaining clip that hold the plunger in. I measured with a piece of safety wire ( I had a few different sized .28", .35" and .41") all of them were within spec so I was good and was able to use the pushrods that came with the kit which are 8.25" I think....

As far for setting the cam end play I decided not to use the cam button that cam in the kit...I actually used the one I had which uses the stock spring but I had the roller button on the end. Assemble the valve train and the timing chain and front cover. Then go to the rear cam plug (plug out of course) and what I did was thread a bolt into the hole of the cam I then up a dial indicator on the head of that bolt and since the front cover was on it is pushing the cam all the way back...set the dial to zero and then with a prybar I pushed the cam forward using the bolt......you want to shoot for no less than .005" and no more than .10" mine was at .006" and that was it.

These 2 measurements are very important for a quite engine and one that will stay together.

Hope that helped....I had to search this forum on many different threads to get this ...it can be a little confusing but once you get in there you will see how it works.

Good luck!:smile:

Thank you very much for your reply... sorry for high jacking your thred..:biggrin: thank you and sorry...:biggrin:

 

[xsbc63x]

Did you modify your exhaust guides and change valves or did you just stick with the stock setup?
MH

do you need to modify the TTA heads/valves for the fts setup? also what timing chain setup did you go with, and did you degree the cam or just set up the timing marks

 

[ALVAROG1983]

vender

I got my roller kit from Anderson Performance. Between Bill's cam and the heads I won from JayC, Old Reliable is rockin!!!

ill check them out thanks

 

[Amelio]

do you need to modify the TTA heads/valves for the fts setup? also what timing chain setup did you go with, and did you degree the cam or just set up the timing marks

Not sure about TTA heads?????

I decided to go with a Comp timing set...they are a great unit and for $89.00 hard to beat. I do not have a degree wheel so i installed the cam straight up (dot to dot)